HICAS Diagnostic

[Keeper]

where is the speed sensor? it is now causing me grief, is it a different assembly to the cluster or is it built into the cluster itself? can it be repaired

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=152998 speed sensor replacement thread

[engo]

i just tried the test (r33 gts-t m/t) multiple times and the light didnt come on... however i noticed when i pumped the brake my revs lifted.... but i do have an aftermarket steering wheel.. where can i get this adapter and where is it actually in the car??

[Jmaac]

Any car place like Autobarn, you just want a HICAS compatable boss to suit R33, i think about $70 or something. Its the big round thing your steering wheel bolts to and then u bolt that to the car, two plastic tabs will sit inside it if they havent been broken off. It measures the turn angle of the steering wheel used during HICAS calcs on the R33. R32 is hydraulic on the other hand.

Some people also cut the speed signal wire so the ECU doesnt speed limit the car to 180kph, this will also cause your HICAS to stuff up (used in calcs).

Has anyone tried pulling out the hicas sensors and cleaning the dust off?

If its a/market it could be slightly out of tolerance also???

Edited October 23, 2007 by Jmaac

[hrn33_r33]

hey

i have an r33 skyline, did the diagnostics test thing, it has 1 slow flash, then 3 slightly quicker flashes, then 10 very quick flashes, anyone know wat this means? as the warning light now stays constantly on as of today after driving through a smallish puddle at lunch time, lol

[SFT33]

just a quick question about the hicas cpu can it be removed.

Edited January 1, 2008 by SFT33

[Jmaac]

just a quick question about the hicas cpu can it be removed.

Yes, its been a while since ive seen it. Its either under your centre console (maybe airbag comp. here?) or under the rear parcel shelf

You will then have the light permanently on the dash unless u pull the whole thing apart to cut a single wire.

You will need to remove the electronic solenoids motors in an r33 or hydralics in an r32 to fit a hicas lock bar which will lock the rear wheels straight

this will not fix the rest of the steering geom. that hicas looks after. It will handle crap but at least the rear wheels are pointing forward.

[schnowbie]

hey ummm i have a question

my HICAS lights turns on

EVERTYTIME , at the exact distance of 10km or so of driving

i time it the spot where i usually go to work n back home

it always turns on at the same area.

so what's wrong with it?

HICAS isn't really a major problem is it?

cheers.

[r33123]

HICAS Diagnostic Procedure

1. Input starting conditions for self-diagnosis.

* Turn ignition switch "OFF".

* Set shift lever to "P" or "N" (A/T) or "Neutral" (M/T).

* Turn ignition switch "ON".

* Immediately start engine.

* Turn steering wheel from left to right (at least 20deg from the neutral position) 5- times or more, then depress foot brake pedal at least 5- times all within 10- seconds after ignition switch has been turned "ON".

2. Input self-diagnosis item.

* Depress and release foot brake pedal.

* Turn steering wheel from left to right (at least 20deg) from the neutral position.

* (M/T model):

Depress clutch pedal and move gear shift lever to any position other than Neutral and return to Neutral. Release clutch pedal.

(A/T model):

Disengage and engage parking brake lever. Move shift lever to any position other than Neutral or Parking and return to Parking.

* Move car at least 3 meters (10ft) forward and proceed at indicated speed of at least 2km/h (1mph) in self-diagnosis mode.

3. The self-diagnosis mode will then appear in the "HICAS" warning lamp.

* When all systems are normal HICAS warning lamp flashes at 0.25 second intervals.

* When there is a system malfunction (there is a nifty diagram here of HICAS lamp pulses. I tried to translate them to words...)

Mode A)

10 short pulses for 5 seconds.

No pulses for 5 seconds.

Nine 2-second interval indicating the system status (18 seconds total).

(short pulse = good, 1 second pulse=bad)

1) HICAS Solenoid R.H.

2) HICAS Solenoid L.H.

3) Fail-Safe Valve

4) (Constantly normal mode)

5) Vehicle Speed Sensor

6) Steering Angle Sensor

7) Steering Neutral Position Sensor

8) A/T: Parking brake sensor

___ M/T: Clutch Sensor

9) A/T: Inhibitor Sensor

___ M/T: Neutral Sensor

** Display repeats until ignition switch is turned "OFF" or 5 min has past.

Mode B)

Lamp on for 5 seconds.

No pulses for 5 seconds.

Nine 2-second interval indicating the system status (18 seconds total).

(short (0.1 sec) pulse = good, 1 second pulse=bad)

1) HICAS Solenoid R.H.

2) HICAS Solenoid L.H.

3) Fail-Safe Valve

4) (Constantly normal mode)

5) Vehicle Speed Sensor

6) Steering Angle Sensor

7) Steering Neutral Position Sensor

8) A/T: Parking brake sensor

___ M/T: Clutch Sensor

9) A/T: Inhibitor Sensor

___ M/T: Neutral Sensor

** Display repeats until ignition switch is turned "OFF" or 5 min has past.

Note 1: To change the display mode to "A", turn OFF ignition switch after mode "B" is displayed. When battery is insufficient, mode "B" is displayed.

Note 2: If fail-safe system was operated (fail-safe valve is operating) when ignition switch was turned OFF for the last time, mode A will be displayed. If fail-safe system was not operated when the ignition switch was turned OFF for the last time, mode B will be displayed.

* Canceling the self-diagnosis function

Three methods.

1) By turning the ignition switch off.

2) After self-diagnosis has been operated for ~5 minutes.

3) If the vehicle speed goes over 30 km/h (19 mph).

hi i did mannual conversion on auto r33 gtst and steering wheel goes heavy???????? why????

[axe s]

Does this work with an aftermarket ecu...

I have a Haltech E11v2 and couldn't get this to work.

Just tried it with the standard ecu aswell and couldn't get it to work... must be doing something wrong...

just to clarify that you center the steering wheel to start with then turn it to the right at least 20 degrees, then back to center - repeating 5 times

Brake 5 times

All within 10 secs

Then brake again

turn wheel again

clutch in, into gear, then out

then diagnostic mode is suppose to start...

Edited February 10, 2009 by axe s

[R33 Eddy]

Hi,

My HICAS light decided to come on today while driving and hasn’t turned off after unplugging all plugs and fuses and connecting everything back up, HICAS light still stays on. So I ran the Diagnostics only to find a heap of flashes that I can match to both different guides on the first page but both give different results...

Here is what i got from the Diagnostics

Long, Short, short, Long, long, short, long, long, short, Extra long flash where it the starts again...

Can anyone help on this??

Regards,

Ed

[JSTA33]

my HICAS light is always on, but thats because a guy disconnected the wires or something.. where abouts are the wires located? near the battery in the boot? cheers.

[JSTA33]

its cool, i found it, right next to the dif, 3 cables that are unplugged.

[Fennec]

A new problem for the thread, I read through the replies and can't find a symptom/problem like mine. I'm pretty sure I know what it is, but want to check. When I got my car, after about a week, it split a hydraulic line and leaked out fluid and I had to get it repaired. I'm pretty sure that I didn't have any problems with it before then (But it's so long ago, I can't remember), but I think when the mechanic topped it back up; they didn't bleed the system and might have even put in a different viscosity/type of fluid into the system. The light will flash every now and again; but it gets a lot worse in hot weather than in cold (Engine heat soak seems to affect it too) and it feels like the pump 'skips' every now and again; like there's a difference in the viscosity in the fluid or it's coming across a bubble in the line. The steering will load up occasionally in a corner; with no power assistance at all, then it'll jerk and I'll have power assistance again and the light will flash whenever the system 'hiccups' like this. And yes, I check the fluid resevoir regularly with the engine on; it never leaks and is always between the marks. How hard is it to completely bleed and refill the system? I'd appreciate it if anyone can help. '89 R32 GT-R. I'm going to do a full fluids service on it as it is and if this doesn't solve the problem, I've got a lock-off bar and rods that I'll use instead, to be lazy. If someone could point me in the direction of a DIY guide of bleeding, it'd be great. I can't do a diagnostic because the car's not driveable at the moment.

Edited May 28, 2009 by Fennec

[offroadaaron]

I haven't tried the test, but my HICAS light only comes on once I'm going about 100km/h or over.

That seems very strange to me. As soon as I turn the car off and back on it goes away and it never comes up while city driving.

Edited June 9, 2009 by offroadaaron

[deformed]

I haven't tried the test, but my HICAS light only comes on once I'm going about 100km/h or over.

That seems very strange to me. As soon as I turn the car off and back on it goes away and it never comes up while city driving.

hay mate

i have the same any ideas

[85URK]

mine came up

.21 Vehicle speed sensor not present

Where is this located, and how do you replace it etc

[Sami]

i got Diagnostic Code 2 which is "HICAS solenoid left hand"

now i have locked my hicas bar and looped the hole

i dont see why this should come up

[WrenchesInTheGears]

my hicas light comes on reliably after about 15 min of driving,

when driving to trade school it always comes on at about the same bit of road in my route,

i have tried entering diagnosis mode but it doesnt work, am i not doing it right?

This is what i do

ignition off

car in neutral,

start car

turn wheel left and right vigourously about 5-6 times,

pump brake pedal fairly quickly 5-6 times.

put clutch in and go into first gear, and then back to neutral and release clutch

nothing hapens..

car is a 1989 hcr32 gtst

am i missing something?

i also tryed driving forwards 5 metres, n it didint work

[axe s]

my hicas light comes on reliably after about 15 min of driving,

when driving to trade school it always comes on at about the same bit of road in my route,

i have tried entering diagnosis mode but it doesnt work, am i not doing it right?

This is what i do

ignition off

car in neutral,

start car

turn wheel left and right vigourously about 5-6 times,

pump brake pedal fairly quickly 5-6 times.

put clutch in and go into first gear, and then back to neutral and release clutch

nothing hapens..

car is a 1989 hcr32 gtst

am i missing something?

i also tryed driving forwards 5 metres, n it didint work

I have the same 2 problems... mine comes on about 15 mins of driving

and i can't get the diagnostic to work...

[toygtr]

I have the same 2 problems... mine comes on about 15 mins of driving

and i can't get the diagnostic to work...

Same. Any ideas?