Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well we agreed it was time to stop hijacking Russ' thread, so here is one of our own.

having built and raced standard gtrs for a couple of years (well couple of minutes track time), we figured it was time to go the other way and build something a bit more over the top. but of course our budget hasn't expanded so this is all being done on the dirt cheap (as usual). Hopefully under $20k over a couple of years - will see how we go on that. we've had it for about 18 months now but have only really got going this year

step 1. cheap shell that someone had to sell.

dead standard just a white car with a bit of paint.

tn_img_1813_sm.gif

tn_img_1814_sm.gif

tn_img_1815_sm.gif

tn_img_1816_sm.gif

trackgtr_01.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221982-mark-and-duncans-r32-build/
Share on other sites

we don't really have a good pic but the rear parcel shelf has been cut out too. you can see it in the roll cage pics.

speaking of which....Mark has been working on the cage for weeks. thankfully with rob who knows what he is doing lol

cage_rear.jpg

cage_rear2.jpg

cage_rear3.jpg

it looked roomy back there for a while without the parcel shelf.

plenty of bracing, cross bracing and even support for the subframe mounts. don't think we'll need a rear strut brace now

front of the cage was a bit trickier. we wanted to support the front strut tower properly so we had to loose the

brake booster

abs

wiper motor

clutch master resoviour

brake lines

i guess some of those things will go back in somewhere later (1, 4 and 5 hopefully)

cage_front.jpg

cage_front2.jpg

cage_front3.jpg

its a bit close to the throttle inside but other than that looks great. and all the holes in the firewall have been welded up to. and the speedo cable hole so i guess we wont be having one of them lol

we've braced the cage to the a and b piller in 4 places too

heres the side of the cage. could be tricky to get out in a rush

cage_side.jpg

which also kind of gives away the minor mods to the doors

trackgtr_05.jpg

they are getting ally skins once the windows are in - although i think we might have gone a little too far around the hinges - they flex so much the paint has cracked. might need to start again with them.

about 2k spent on that materials and labour probably. and a absolute heap of work

up next.....clean and paint the cage and interior to protect it all.

also no pics but we've made a boot out of the ally sheet as well, rob did a top job welding such thin material. need to do some final adjustments then fit it up with some bonnet pins

also - foam filling. you can kind of see in the second pic, the a pillar and sills have been foam filled. one side only so far, need to finish off the other side soon.

also - all the wiring is out, we will pull out everything we don't need which will be at least 50% of it. its damn heavy and there are 4 seperate looms in the car.

windows are all gone, we are putting in perspex instead. looks pretty easy to form to shape but we haven't got there yet so who knows.

have a motor waiting to go on a stand, only 2.6 but got all the good stuff inside and a fair bit of work to the head including big cams. all the stuff we aren't allowed to do to the productions cars. was pretty cheap we had pretty much everything around.

from here its mostly stuff we have to spend money on, so that will decide how quick we can do it.

fuel system

shocks springs swaybars

bushes and adjsutable arms

big wheels - no more of this standard 17x8 shit

brakes

tyres

tailshaft

seat, harness, kill switch, extinguisher

A great thread - been looking forward to his as im doing an almost identical setup and im at a very similar stage.

Jaon - The 18" tyres are the best value for money (along with 16") the slicks are only slightly more expensive too.

cool thread great to see mate!

hehe i bet it feels great to be able to throw the rule book away and do what you want and in some ways sometimes that is cheaper.

bigger wheels = bigger brakes

firewall mod looks good too!!

are you doing some seam welding?

cheers russ

yawn - it will be log booked as a sports sedan like russ' one, one of only 3 gtrs with a 3D logbook afaik. but probably wont race, there isn't enough metal left to rub panels with anyone.

jas - no way will it be ready for this superlap, probably 3-6 months away from hitting the track atm and probably 12 months until it is sorted properly. We've built enough cars now to know these tings take way longer than you plan unless you can just pay a workshop to do it all.

will probably go 18s so we can use larger than targa brakes like g4s on 355mm rotors. and also can use porsche cup slicks for practice, and there are plenty of 18" slicks to choose from these days

russ....we have been talking about it, and I guess thats the reason for the thread - to think about those things. have you given it a go and where in particular were you think of? front struts still seems the weakest to me

yep front struts towers, the area under your front guards along the seams there, also there is a little triangular plate there weld that fully too or make a more solid one.

may as well while you've got the welder out before painting.

cmon russ there are pics, you need to add circles so i get it :P

andrew - rear firewall is required between the cabin and the fuel tank/system. but they will probably end up under the car not in the boot. pretty much where the standard tank goes. we can get fuel cells at a very good price from austalian auto. and lets face it the standard parcel shelf is not exactly fireproof. If we need to put something back it will be a sheet of ally rear of the strut towers

ben

1 - no lol. mark might have the numbers. but there were heaps.

2 - probably normal 4" for now we have one around. i saw the trouble russ has had with his so I am thinking rear titanium. side is fine in the production car where we only need twin 60mm. but i think this one will need to breathe a bit better than that. we still have to make some decisions around turbos/manifolds/dumps yet.

3 - gone and never coming back. we are keeping the brake booster though - i have driven a gtr on the track without the booster and it was a disaster.

4 - proably will go dash pad and cluster at first, but something custom later. don't have $1k to spend on gauges atm...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah, fair enough. For the IAT, I'm using a legit GM sensor that was used on the car prior to my current build. I'll get another wideband and IAT ordered and follow up when they show up. Thanks for the help.
    • You shouldn't need to massively fatten up the mixtures for cold conditions. For one thing - 0°C is not that cold. For another, the Haltech will be using the IAT sensor to tell it how dense the air air, and calculate the correct amount of fuelling. Then the cold start enrichment is added as a % on top of that, so it should scale with the main fuelling. You might also doubt the IAT sensor at this time. You're not using one from an RB26 are you? Using a nice Bosch sensor or similar? Happens. Some wideband units take great pleasure in killing their sensors. Put another wideband in the tailpipe and compare. Or just swap the sensor to a brand new one and see.
    • Oh, my misunderstand. When the car was running, it sounded ok, but if I gave it any gas it wanted to die but caught itself afterwards. It's very different from how it was a couple months ago when it was warmer outside. The logs show that the AFRs are better during, what I assume, is warmup enrichment. Because it's cold, and air is more dense, should I work on the enrichment bit?
    • yess of course im not using 2nd hand parts from my spare engine, but the place where i live is hard to find parts for the RB20DET ,but for the RB20E is everywhere including new ones and a lot cheaper ,because for the RB20DET you have to order it overseas to get one and it cost a lot of money 3x the price to be exact. so i ask this topic because if i can use the new ones but for RB20E is it compatible or not. if not im screwed haha, not totally screwed but i have to save a lot of money first before i can begin repairing my engine, thanks for the information before.
    • Unless my sensor just died, was only a couple months old, I strongly believe it didn't. How can I test it? I never mentioned it being 20:1+?
×
×
  • Create New...