Mark And Duncans R32 Build

[haw001]

I'm glad to see this thread has taken on a life of it's own. Glad to see so many good ideas coming out of it.

I'm starting to think that the front screen would be better staying glass, and we could put it back in, but given that it's already out, we may as well go the whole hog and do it all round.

What did the Gibson GTR's have?

Sean, thanks for the tailshaft. I promise we will put it to good use. Do you need a standard one to put back in it's place?

I'm pretty sure that I can get the exhaust out without having to cut into the chassis rails or the floor. I'd really like to avoid it if possible. With a seperate wastegate it's pretty easy to keep it seperate all the way, reducing the pipe from a big single to two smaller ones. They can also be flattened and squared to reduce the profile. Otherwise running it all the way back is not that bad.

Mark

[Kel]

Gimme some spray paint- i reckon i can paint any wheels white

[GTRsean]

I'm glad to see this thread has taken on a life of it's own. Glad to see so many good ideas coming out of it.

I'm starting to think that the front screen would be better staying glass, and we could put it back in, but given that it's already out, we may as well go the whole hog and do it all round.

What did the Gibson GTR's have?

Sean, thanks for the tailshaft. I promise we will put it to good use. Do you need a standard one to put back in it's place?

I'm pretty sure that I can get the exhaust out without having to cut into the chassis rails or the floor. I'd really like to avoid it if possible. With a seperate wastegate it's pretty easy to keep it seperate all the way, reducing the pipe from a big single to two smaller ones. They can also be flattened and squared to reduce the profile. Otherwise running it all the way back is not that bad.

Mark

Got a hold of a stock one already and put it in. Had to find a center bearing bracket, sss automotive helped there.

I can even drop it off to you guys if you pm me where to go, I wanna see the beast lol.

[Beer Baron]

I reckon glass windscreen is the go. mainly because a perspex will get damaged over time, it will practically be sandblasted down the straight and after a few scratches and chips and even just with aging it will become hard to see out through the screen. plus since you have to use very thick perspex for the front it will already be hard to see through given it's curved shape.

[Angus Smart]

make it a converttable!!!

[tacker]

All comments are welcome, between the two of us we've built a few of these, but are by no means definitive experts and always welcome ideas.

Turbos are under debate at the moment. We've got a set of 2530's, but I'm seriously thinking about a set of similar low mounts with an external wastegate.

I'm a big believer in punch over power for most tracks and hill climbs, but there's no question that ultimately, you need herbs to really get the times down. Hopefully this will give us the best of both worlds with the low down punch, with the external helping the top end when internals start to show their weaknesses.

Time and testing will tell.

I'll measure up the cage piping and post it up. Won't be able to do it for a little while. It's tarped up in this rain.

Rob is a master with the welder and building cages. No joint has been done without serious thought. He's been making them for 20 years and it's amazing how much thought goes into them. It's not just a case of putting bars and crosses everywhere, but really covering everywhere the cage has a bend and making sure that all the different stresses are reduced wherever possible.

No you will make that weight easy i had mine weight on a long acre scale set and was 1265 with the stock fuel tank although your cage is quite a bit more substancial than mine. What did you use t45 or moly?

also forming the is quite easy you just need to get it to 100 degrees like a big pan of water to do the door windows then quickly clamp it to the original glass, let it cool and its done

[Roy]

Duncan , give these guys a call. http://www.dotmar.com.au/

I have purcahsed plenty of stuff off them over the years. They make all the splash covers for manifold arrangement we use in pharmaceutical clean rooms. They have several grades of Lexans, chemical resistant, some that can be bent others that cant, some that are stronger but more brittle etc etc. I am betting the grade we use would be perfect as it can be formed without becoming opaque is chemical resistant and washing it with a cotton cloth isnt going to scratch it like Lexan does

Let me know how you go, back when i was working down the road from them in North Ryde i talked to them about it for my car (was never really going to do it, just talkign shit and dreaming ) and i got the "that would be easy" line from them

[Duncan]

lol too late for glass front, it got borken in a storm a while back. we will go with plastic at first and see how it lasts. thanks for the details roy.

the windows do seem very easy in plastic so far - cutting and forming them looks like a cinch. mounting them, especially on the doors, may be tricker.....

and it turns out we are going to be running some "different" low mounts and manifolds in this now instead of the trusty (or hks-y) 2530s. will be interesting to see how they compare.

russ...we need pics/details of your rear hubs -looks like we have found a non-hicas option too - help!

[Merli]

Garrett 2860-5s? How droll

[Beer Baron]

dundan. you window borken? unpossible!

[benm]

Oh c'mon this guy can break engines faster than I can break 18yo's - a front windscreen is no challenge!

[Duncan]

lol the wind handled that. and no not garrets that is so 2007, and out of our budget anyway lol.

cmon sau...we need more ideas. what would you do if there were no rules and you could do anything to a gtr

[Beer Baron]

steal Russ's sequential hollinger when he's not looking....

[Duncan]

farking a mate. plenty of things we can dodgy and get by with - but right now we only have a standard box and I suspect it will die on the first day out. Of all things, box is somethign we will have to spend serious money on. probably ppg which I think russ has in the 32?

[williamsf1]

drunken....

ok as I know you guys are tighttttttttt, here are somethings that I would do to a road car when faced with a no rule book to follow!

1) do NOT seam weld... spot weld, you can hire one for a day or so and add a good 1500 of the suckers and zero weight gain....

2) once everything is spotted i.e there should be a spot weld every cm or so... seriously! then cut off with a power saw the remaining metal behind the spot... its not needed... you have a nice stiff cage now, so there is a lot of metal in and around seat brakets mounting points etc that can go...

3) not recommended for racing series... but you can also holesaw just about anything that isnt structual... and the savings are HUGE! no rules again...

4) a pedal box is a must!!!! and can be bought cheaply, or made even cheaper!! if you keep the booster its just a large metal can that doesnt help apart from going and getting the bread and milk! not really on the cards???

if you don't have twin masters, you can never "tune" the brakes to the right level... also again its lighter and safer...

http://www2.obp.uk.net/catalog/images/Hyd%...x%20MC%20BA.jpg

http://www2.obp.uk.net/catalog/product_inf...d7ab31ed3b65896

then its just a matter of down to earls and get the fittings and away you go...

if thats still too much $$$$ (pics only examples as there are plenty in oz also..)

5) glass in the front will be the go, as you will need a support beam in the middle to stop the screen flexing in, also they last about 6 mths before you cant see a thing... oh and mr sheen to clean it with no windex unless u like the cloudy look...

if I have covered anything that is suck eggs easy... sorry !!!

[Duncan]

pretty much any double skinned area is gone now, there is still some in the boot we can remove but unlike some of the other panels (eg parcel shelf) there is no easy blend line to cut it out. May just go hole saw in the meantime as it is pretty easy and doesn't stop us having a go at removing the hole (haha) panel later.

yeah good point re the pedal box, the things aren't cheap but this is the right time to look into it considering how much is out of the car. We need to change the master when we removed the ABS anwyay so we will look further into that.

[benm]

Apart from removing the brake + clutch cylinders into the cabin what other advantages does a pedal box give over the factory setup?

[FC3S 13BT]

Looking very nice! such a good starting base

One day I would like to do a similar build... one day..

[benm]

Are you restoring everything as you go, or only touching the bits that need to be replaced?

Here is 15mins with my sandblaster on my bellhousing - made it look brand new.

That was my test piece (first time using a sandblaster) next to do is the entire engine bay + suspension components.

[Duncan]

that came up well ben, good work. no restoring happening on this one its just a nugget. might give em a quick degrease if they are lucky lol.

the main use for a pedal box is dual master cylinders so you can adjust front vs rear brake bias.