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Here is my door as a comparison. I will be throwing some rivets along the bottom and up the 2 sides and also in the 2 vertical parts in the middle of the door. Their really isn't any weight in cutting out much of the door so i'd rather keep more so it stays rigit and just remove the glass + winder mechanism.

post-1296-1215340001_thumb.jpg

yeah trims will be fine thats why we left the lip to rivet into. windows will be a bit trickier we may end up with the first unframeless windowed r32 :P

also removed a the remaining boot floor between the chasis rails to fit the fuel system in better. It looks like getting a filler to the fuel cell will be tricky. attessa resoviour is moving too.

hey guys you can leave doors without inner skin you just need to tension diagonally with light weight 4mm stainless wire in a letter x will keep door from flexing and weight saving.

The tension wires are a great idea, but I doubt they'll be necessary with the skins on. Wire is not going to give any more tension than the whole door skin unless you load them up and I don't think the doors will take any loading.

Ben I think you're right about the rest of the door frame, not much weight to be saved. Will help to have something else to attach the skin to.

Get rid of the window motors though, they do weigh quite a bit.

Mark

I have an idea, how about I donate my roof racks to you guys. You could tell everyone they are vortex generators and I reckon they will drop your lap times by at least 0.000001 s.

How about it Duncan?

Seriously though, what brakes and drive train are you guys running?

haha nice. i was going to copy jp's vortex generators but roof racks seem even more ghetto. you wont beleive how big the wing we have for this thing is lol. sports sedans regs are pretty "liberal"

gearbox is a big issue, we only have standard and don't have $20k for that hollinger sequential I want. so I guess we will just buy 2nd hand boxes in bulk and change them a lot.

hks tripple clutch. should be fine especially since we arent expecting to do many (any?) standing starts.

chromoloy tailshaft courtesy of sean. it felt heavy until I picked up a standard one.

standard driveshafts and intermediate shaft

standard diff shimmed up or maybe we will splash out on a kaaz 1 way rear.

Interesting read guys. This has been on my mind for a while as Bris could tell you.

I just bought a rolling gtr tonight with all suspension/glass and rear diff for $1500 and can't find any damage yet. The guy is going to mess me around on the other parts he promised I know, but thats what happens I guess when I've handed the cash over already.

Going to do the same sort of thing down here and stop tracking my street car. The only thing I'm questioning atm is to go 4wd or rwd to save more weight and less stuff to break. There must be just about 40kg in front diff,driveshafts x3 and 4wd pump, transfer case etc. ATM there are no quick rwd skylines in vic atm but a few are well and truely getting there.

This will be a budget build aswell in the $15k range and will hopefully match a few of the big $ cars. I want to build this car to do 20minute sessions at full pace so lots of cooling will be looked at.

The main thing with the gtr is how much everything weighs. Strip it all out. Yeah!!!!!!

Keen on seeing which way you strip weight.

Have you seen this build?

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/95207-dc...attack-car.html

good stuff, and thanks for the link mate, they look serious. wish we had a touring car chassis builder handy

anyway, better get your thread started and get to work - the more skyline club cars out there the better :P

btw....4wd for sure, it makes up for not being able to drive properly :down: ask all the superlap guys.

haha nice. i was going to copy jp's vortex generators but roof racks seem even more ghetto. you wont beleive how big the wing we have for this thing is lol. sports sedans regs are pretty "liberal"

gearbox is a big issue, we only have standard and don't have $20k for that hollinger sequential I want. so I guess we will just buy 2nd hand boxes in bulk and change them a lot.

hks tripple clutch. should be fine especially since we arent expecting to do many (any?) standing starts.

chromoloy tailshaft courtesy of sean. it felt heavy until I picked up a standard one.

standard driveshafts and intermediate shaft

standard diff shimmed up or maybe we will splash out on a kaaz 1 way rear.

for the diff use the nismo plates in the rear. cost about $200 and you basically end up with a nismo 2 way LSD. spend your diff money on a front 1way or 1.5 way. I don't know much, but all those in the know tell me front diff is where there is a big gain on circuit. especially with some decent power.

for the diff use the nismo plates in the rear. cost about $200 and you basically end up with a nismo 2 way LSD. spend your diff money on a front 1way or 1.5 way. I don't know much, but all those in the know tell me front diff is where there is a big gain on circuit. especially with some decent power.

tell me more about that BB

tell me more about that BB

We just did ours and i recommend using a late R32 or R33 non-vspec diff. Not known to many people but these run thicker 1/2 shafts and greater axel splines for even more durability. A std r32 diff centre next to it looks like a toy in comparison. We machine 10thou off the hemisphere plate for even greater pressure when assembled, as well as running needle roller bearings in the hemisphere for the 1/2 shafts to run on instead of running on the cast housing, as they tend to flog out the housings over time. Nismo kit was installed also for increased lock-up.

We run a Cusco 1.5 way in the front, so our set-up is essentially a 1.5 way front-2 way rear.

Edited by DiRTgarage

hell no! unless someone creates a $400 dry sump :D. have you btw?

absolutely nothing to report this week (although some bits did arrive) I got to work 7 days straight. good for the wallet but bad for the race car.

Well duncan now you mention it......

Im currently doing/laying out a proper/real dry sump yes. Ill do the whole set-up with my spare engine then transplant it into the car once im happy it will work as planned.

Fitted up that pedal box today, once I got the Pedal ratio right the brakes are brilliant! Ill be jigging the whole thing up soon so you'll have to try one as well. Its suprisingly good without the booster once the pads and rotors are up to temp.

Real test will be GP this coming weekend when we take it out to set-up the bias before doing the sump exchange.

http://www.v8clearancesale.com/

Have a look duncan, there is an accusump on there that I know is going fairly cheap.

Edited by Risking

Brad, OP? practice day or...?

I really wish I had..

1. the time

2. the money

3. the knowledge

4. the skills

5. ?????

6. the space/area

to do this sort of stuff you guys build etc!

Yes Chris its just the private practice day this coming sunday. After fitting the pedal box I need to learn to drive again.

And I dont really want to try and dial the brake bias in with too many cars on the circuit come august.

Space is currently my biggest issue. Duncan seen the car when it was getting caged in my garage. Absolutly no room to move then and its probably worse now.

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