Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

its not going very far atm!!

It smashed the oil pump to bits last weekend at oran park just as it hit the top of 3rd (9grand) down the straight.

Its all ready to repair now though, should have everything back this week from the balancer and get it back in next weekend in time for out next oran park round.

Dry sump is underway, sump pan is planned out as is the tank and the final thing to do is fabricate the brackets and mandrel for the pump.

Edited by Risking

you're going to have your motor ready a long time before me then....crank should arrive this week and all balancing an measuring next week....then ready to assemble the week after.

Yep no stuffing around here. longest part is making the sump with pickups that will actually work.

I need it up and running again to finish sorting out the brakes.

Biggest problem I found with it last time out was getting heat into the rotors.

Its obvious that over a 5 lap sprint your not going to be able to heat up massive rotors, mine came good after 4 laps which is not really good enough either.

Gee wiz you guys kill engines quick. :glare:

Have you guys ever thought about racing a diesel? Lol

ROFL,,,Maybe a Radical with a wide seat might help.

GTR's love emptying wallets,,,great fun while there going though,,,,that why the boys can't help themselves.

What about an RB25det,,in 4wd,,,maybe it would last longer.

Neil.

I saw a nice pretty cardboard box which supposedly contains a nice pretty new block belonging to Duncan while at TCH today. I'm told they don't want to be responsible for building this one, but will measure it up to make sure the crank and bock and girdle are all good.

I guess it's just one more engine to put together in the ol' Kenthurst workshop.

On the bright side, my head (the engine one that is) is in perfect working order (the other one I'm not too sure on). Nas and Anthony both reckon my first suspicion on the oil scraper rings is correct. Visible burnt oil on 1 and 2. Going to take the pistons over to be checked when I pick up the sump from cleaning on Friday to make sure. So should be putting it together on Saturday.

Sunday's out, so probably the next weekend to put it back in. Can fit a few engine assemblies in on Saturday if your new block and crank are ready. I'll do bottom end, you bolt on all the extra bits and we can knock 2 over on Saturday.

If anyone's after some head work, you've got to see the valve seat cnc machine that TCH have. It's just amazing! Computer has profiles for any block and all they have to do is drop the spindle into the valve guide and the machine does the rest. They can do a 24 valve head in about 20 minutes.

Mark

ROFL,,,Maybe a Radical with a wide seat might help.

GTR's love emptying wallets,,,great fun while there going though,,,,that why the boys can't help themselves.

What about an RB25det,,in 4wd,,,maybe it would last longer.

Neil.

I like the way you think. LOL

Hey Duncan have u decided on running a brake booster or not? what about power steering, anyone tried running without it and taking all the lines off at the rack? my mate runs no p/s in his supra with all lines removed and its remarkebly smooth and soft to steer, im thinking the less accessories on/around the motor the better :P what about the abs setup, if its deleted then how do the lines run, can u run the stock brake master cylinder still?

Edited by unique1
Hey Duncan have u decided on running a brake booster or not? what about power steering, anyone tried running without it and taking all the lines off at the rack? my mate runs no p/s in his supra with all lines removed and its remarkebly smooth and soft to steer, im thinking the less accessories on/around the motor the better :) what about the abs setup, if its deleted then how do the lines run, can u run the stock brake master cylinder still?

Beer Bitch and six pack great idea you cheeky you. Like Thomas Edison found many ways a light bulb would not work before he found how to make it work. Frustration and set back adds character and appreciation to the end result and success is a journey anyway, bla bla..

I thought about running without power steering but decided not, as the small weight and power improvement is not worth it , and with wide tyres it would be too hard to steer. 4wd even more load and suggest not. Definitely get the new Ross Racing balancer which has vulcanised rubber and two big O Rings. It absorbs resonance from crank better than factory one which RB26's need, and stronger. Also under drives water pump 10% and power steering by 20%, which will help with high revving race car. I would also go Greddy oversized pulleys. I did both on my zed and works well.

Peddle box is s a big job but one of the best things I did and brakes work heaps better and much more feel, booster is OK if retain ABS otherwise lock brakes all the time.

Hope this helps, and keep up the great work Mark and Dunc and keep your eye on the prize.

Hey Duncan,

Was just wondering how you went with the perspec windows??? How do they look are they easy and clear to see through?? Im in a slow process of doing my own 32 track car and i was going to get some lexan windows some time down the track just would like to know how they turned out and if it is worth it??

David

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...