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cmon neily send those pics over. I love the way they made the rear arm mounts adjustable, we will go that way for sure.

Andrew....you aren't selling yours are you :) any car you change to from a GTR will disappoint you....

  Duncan said:
cmon neily send those pics over. I love the way they made the rear arm mounts adjustable, we will go that way for sure.

Andrew....you aren't selling yours are you :) any car you change to from a GTR will disappoint you....

i would like the money at the moment, i want to start a business venture and need atleast 32k. and was hoping to buy the car back a few months down the track.

i will also get that headlight across to Brad on Thursday night!

  Marlin said:
I'm going to remove the booster on my 32 guys. I'm not going to put a pedal box in it, just some modifications to the factory arrangement will/should allow for a different pedal ratio. I'll get pics up when I do it and advise how it feels.

I'd be really keen to see this Ben as I'm removing my booster too

I've got a spare set of pedals out of the wreck which we can experiment on in the new car. If all goes pear shaped then we will still have the old set to use.

From memory, it's not the pedals that are the problem but the brackets which are weak. Wouldn't be too hard to machine up a set of brakets. Getting the body contorted under the steering wheel with the legs up in the air is the hard part!

The pedal itself is usually fine its the box itself and the mounts that are crap.

The originals are made from press bent steel and rubbish.

I make new boxes from 3-5mm thick plate thats all Tig welded together. They dont flex and work really well.

Whilst your making the new pedal box/mounts you can adjust the master cylinder height and pivot points to get the pedal ratio just right so it works properly without the booster.

Guys there is loads of info all over the net about calculating pedal ratios and so forth.

  Risking said:
The pedal itself is usually fine its the box itself and the mounts that are crap.

The originals are made from press bent steel and rubbish.

I make new boxes from 3-5mm thick plate thats all Tig welded together. They dont flex and work really well.

Whilst your making the new pedal box/mounts you can adjust the master cylinder height and pivot points to get the pedal ratio just right so it works properly without the booster.

Guys there is loads of info all over the net about calculating pedal ratios and so forth.

Oi you weren't there haha i dropped it off anyway. and called greg.

if you go in the morning greg will have it.

  Duncan said:
excellent.....

brad are you sure they have information on the internet too now? I only ever seem to find porn

Lol, no shortage of that.

Got anymore progress pics of the beast?

are you guys using a lift pump with a swirl pot, as that is a drag style cell. just wondering how you controll fuel surge. The bar work in your cage is amazing. excellent job.

  Duncan said:
yes

yes

yes

lol

this one:

JAZ-250-008-01%20drag%20race%20fuel%20cell.jpg

16 gallons however much that is. bought it purely because it was a. cheap and b. had a level sender.

once the painting is done (really should do the subfames as well now the chasis looks good) we need to fabricate some mounts for the fuel system, rewire the car (we have decided to do it all except the engine loom, I hope you are still helping brad lol), mount the battery and attessa resoviour in rear passenger side, modify the rear subframe, get the new suspension arms in, reco the driveshafts, shim the diff, put some brakes on, put the windows in and door trims on, mount up the seats and harnesses, build the dash (standard one is heavier than you'd think), sort the headlights, water to air intercooler and piping, airbox, second radiator, oil cooler.

once we've done all that, all we need to do is get the motor finished (turbo and wastegate mount mostly) then go for a hoon.

russ...I've seen what you guys are taking on, you might take longer but it will be a hell of a result...

Yes using surge/swirl pot with standard GTR pump as lift pump and Bosch 044 (I think) as main. Still working out where it will go as the swirl pot is a tall as the fuel tank and we need to put it somewhere where it will drian back into the tank. Still trying to avoid the boot so we can avoid a rear firewall.

Maybe fit it where the atessa resevoir is and seal it back up. Depends on room.

  Duncan said:
excellent.....

brad are you sure they have information on the internet too now? I only ever seem to find porn

Shit we seem to have the same problem then. if you overcome this let me know how you went about it..

now on the topic of porn here's some i created earlier

post-31456-1218155921_thumb.jpg

As for selling the car. maybe not so much anymore but i wanted money for a business idea. might have to rob someone now the car is staying :(

hahah always borrow for business, at least it is tax deductible. personal stuff is where you should avoid debt....especially cars.

which reminds me of the raceworx motto....if you can't afford to write it off, you can't afford to race it. exactly why i stopped tracking the road car and bought a dedicated race car instead.

stuart like mark said, we are using a swirl pot....but that fuel cell is fuel filled and has a low pick up point so it should be acceptable even without. but I am dead sick of the 044 intank setup on my production car....can't go under 1/3 tank with it which means I am always carrying an exra 20kg in the rear (on top of the extra 20kg in the drivers seat lol)

yeh, should work. I opted for the alluminium tank and modified it. i welded a two litre aluminium sump on the bottom. hole sawed the bottom of the tank first to drop two 040 bosch pumps through. The tank cost $280. the rest was just material. ill see how it goes.

  Duncan said:
hahah always borrow for business, at least it is tax deductible. personal stuff is where you should avoid debt....especially cars.

which reminds me of the raceworx motto....if you can't afford to write it off, you can't afford to race it. exactly why i stopped tracking the road car and bought a dedicated race car instead.

stuart like mark said, we are using a swirl pot....but that fuel cell is fuel filled and has a low pick up point so it should be acceptable even without. but I am dead sick of the 044 intank setup on my production car....can't go under 1/3 tank with it which means I am always carrying an exra 20kg in the rear (on top of the extra 20kg in the drivers seat lol)

post-20078-1218254102_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1218254184_thumb.jpg

Edited by BezerkR32

looks neat stuart (and excellent welding too whoever did that).

we made some progress today, the engine bay is a subtle hue of red.

red_engine_bay.jpg

more importantly, the fuel cell is mounted up (mostly, just needs another strap around from the subframe, but that needs a tab welded on the right - nissan were kind enough to supply us with one on the left side, might have been for an exhaust originally?).

its hard to tell but the top sits flush with the boot floor. just need a cover/firewall for it now.

fuel_cell_mounting.jpg

best of all, nissan provided us with an excellent spot to mount the surge tank and fuel pumps up here. attessa resoviour will move but we can live with that. looks like a very good solution

swirl_pot.jpg

Hellooo everyone

just pulling the new motor apart and thought i'd ask in here as it will go noticed :laugh:

can i remove the stock oil cooler unit? and never put it back on? or is it needed? i do have a large greddy unit

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