Mark And Duncans R32 Build

[Marlin]

got a set of standard front calipers and discs, a pair of blitz atmo blow off valves and 2 sets of 32 dash vents for sale too for anyone who is interested.

Still got a set of dash vent Duncan? Centre and passenger is what I'm after, let me know how muchy if you have. Anything else that might be of interest? ie... I'm allowed to run GTR body kit on mine, bonnet, bumper etc..... unlikely but worth asking

[haw001]

Angus,

The topic of removing Hicas completely is well covered on the forum, but in a nutshell:

1. remove hicas on rear rack, replace with bar.

2. remove 1/2inch lines to hicas (or use them for something else)

3. remove the pump assembly on the driver side engine bay.

4. remove the rear turbine from the inside of the power steering pump and block the top rear banjo fitting with a suitable sized nut.

5. complete the fluid loop from resevoir to pump to rack back to resevoir any way you like. Be sure to include the cooling portion of the line, or better yet replace it with a cooler.

6. Can't remember for sure, but you may have to block off one of the resevoir outlets.

[screamin']

Awsome thread, good to follow another R32 build.

Just one thing, I don't like the position of this.

best of all, nissan provided us with an excellent spot to mount the surge tank and fuel pumps up here. attessa resoviour will move but we can live with that. looks like a very good solution

Skyline rear guards are really suseptable to this, excuse the bog it's not the first dent for this guard!

And personally I wouldn't want my fuel surge tank stuck in there.

[Angus Smart]

Angus,

The topic of removing Hicas completely is well covered on the forum, but in a nutshell:

1. remove hicas on rear rack, replace with bar.

2. remove 1/2inch lines to hicas (or use them for something else)

3. remove the pump assembly on the driver side engine bay.

4. remove the rear turbine from the inside of the power steering pump and block the top rear banjo fitting with a suitable sized nut.

5. complete the fluid loop from resevoir to pump to rack back to resevoir any way you like. Be sure to include the cooling portion of the line, or better yet replace it with a cooler.

6. Can't remember for sure, but you may have to block off one of the resevoir outlets.

Oh thankyou! while the search was down its been my busiest time working on the car, and i've not had a great deal of info about a few things i am doing.

Thats cheap! Where from?

Hey Steve, i've ended up getting them for $1750us without delivery at the moment. just waiting to make payment now.

still under the 2000 mark tho which is great

Edited August 20, 2008 by Angus Smart

[GTRsean]

Did that to mine last week. Basically what is said above. Going to run the main line from the reservior to the front part of powersteering pump. Weld up the 'y' splitter piece or something.

[Neil]

Awsome thread, good to follow another R32 build.

Just one thing, I don't like the position of this.

Skyline rear guards are really suseptable to this, excuse the bog it's not the first dent for this guard!

And personally I wouldn't want my fuel surge tank stuck in there.

Yea your absolutely correct screamin,,,I thought the same but forgot to mention it last weekend. It proberly not get through scruteneering either.

Steveo I do it for the fun,,,I get free lunch,,,usually maka's for breakfast,,,a free ashtray and Marky often brings home cool stuff. But best of all is watching Duncan do something the hard way,,,sit back suck on a fag,,,laugh and then show him an easier way. Once upon a time Mark was the starter motor man,,,now we all can un-bolt the bloody thing,,,Duncan has gone a step further and uses a piece of rope to pull on the spanner,,,,ah he's a thinker.

Neil.

[Duncan]

re the surge tank, I am fine with it being there and I'm sure the scruitineers will be too.

It is behind sheet metal (there will be a firewall to cover the opening to the boot area which is the cams requirement)

It will have an ignition cut out on the pump, and hopefully an oil pressure cut out too

we aren't door to door racing this car, and its not road driven. or rallied. or drifted at night lol.

neither mark nor I have ever bent a rear qtr panel except in door to door racing

there are plenty (dare I say most) race cars that just put their fuel systems under the car without any metal between them and the outside world. much more dangerous imho (those ripple strips at oran park can be nasty on the car's underside, right?).

[Risking]

Dry sump solves all the ripple strip problems duncan! Ive even lowered my engine.

You'll be able to have a steer in the next week or so. New brakes as well.

You seen the tank mounted, pump is done lines and fittings on the way.

Also Im going to be doing direct looms for GTR's with the bare bare nessesities. Even more so bare than the painless looms getting around.

Ill bring mine over shortly and make sure it lays out nicely in your car as well

Edited August 21, 2008 by Risking

[Duncan]

lol don't know if I mentioned but that sump was really badly cracked, it was very obvious from the inside. it is getting welded up now, but no wonder the sump plug leaked.

your dry sump looks good and the position is great.....like I said all we need to do is blow this first motor then we can go that way

and....we need those windows and looms done next, so hopefully you will have some time. really want them all in in the next 4 weeks now the interior is done.

and on a totally unrelated note, the other guys haven't sorted the cranks yet....if you still need one let me know and I will hurry them up. again.

and my motor should be back next week so there are a couple of events on the radar before the end of the year....

[Risking]

Thanks, fitting a 5 stage pump in there is a pain in the arse but well worth the effort. I think I took about 2 inchs off the sump depth and lowered the mounts appropriatly as well, hardest part was the partitioning of the sump and windage trays. All the extra weight I have been adding is seems to be adding up. Mounts, pump, tank all fairly heavy.

Like I said, I have enough spares now to do 3 dry sump conversions. Bring on the next engine! I have photos and drawings to work off now so next one will take half the time.

The tank I used had no chance of fitting in the boot hence its current location. ( I think its better than boot mounting anyhow)

Im finishing off the loom for mine atm then Ill make another for yours. Need to discuss the battery locations etc though.

I have a few windows now. The first few didnt work very well but got it sorted now after some advise from a glasier.

We have a private day at oran park coming up with a heap of the combined touring guys, you may well need to be in attendance duncan!!

Edited August 21, 2008 by Risking

[Duncan]

sounds good, but i guess the race car is 6-8 weeks off the track yet. I"m sure yours will be finished long before mine is done. just needs the motor and a good wheel alignment basically

[Risking]

Mines 2 weeks maximum away.

Ive got a lot to do but its all shaping up. Once the engine is built it should be all down hill.

So far the loom has taken the longest to get sorted ( i was not happy with the old one)

[shanef]

Dry sump solves all the ripple strip problems duncan! Ive even lowered my engine.

You'll be able to have a steer in the next week or so. New brakes as well.

You seen the tank mounted, pump is done lines and fittings on the way.

Also Im going to be doing direct looms for GTR's with the bare bare nessesities. Even more so bare than the painless looms getting around.

Ill bring mine over shortly and make sure it lays out nicely in your car as well

i want/need one of these too!

[Angus Smart]

For those who wanted to know where i got the pistons/rods from ended up $1750 without shipping.... Mahle 86.5 and Pauter X beams

http://www.importperformanceparts.net/ they are way up on the east coast of America.

i placed my order this morning so we'll time it to see how long it takes gto get it all together.

Brad: As for that crank, its still in the car but if you remember its got a broken keyway. if you still want it let me know, i've started pulling the motor out just stuck on two prop shaft bolts (some bastards have made them Vft )

dry sump sounds good i'll be happy to take some of them parts off you!

[Risking]

Ill send you some details Shane. There fairly simple but using good quality circuit breakers, fuse blocks, relay blocks and terminals.

It really depends how much of the car you want to work and how you want it all to be laid out.

Andrew Ill certainly take the crank off your hands once its out ( or the whole bottom end if you decide to be gone with it)

Duncan ive got a couple of cranks now to choose from. Dont think ill need anymore.

I just want to get the dry sump sorted before swapping a billet crank back into the mix.

Glad you went with the Pauters, they are a great thing, I have been using them for years. They were expensive back when I bought them but like you found out very affordable now days.

[shanef]

sweet man that'd be good.

basic specs are street regod drag car, no radio, no aircon, no abs, battery in boot, fuel cell with single fuel pump, autronic sm4, m&w cdi with mercury coils etc etc

car is currently stripped and getting some chasiss work done so would like to put a new loom in before everything goes back in

[BezerkR32]

good too see a few cars in the build. guys, whats the go with the wiring looms? its something i havent given much thought, just figured the electrician will work out. and also, where do i have to mount battery isolator? does it have to be outside vehicle?

sweet man that'd be good.

basic specs are street regod drag car, no radio, no aircon, no abs, battery in boot, fuel cell with single fuel pump, autronic sm4, m&w cdi with mercury coils etc etc

car is currently stripped and getting some chasiss work done so would like to put a new loom in before everything goes back in

[haw001]

When you say battery isolator, are you talking about the emergency kill switch?

If so, you need to have one inside and outside. Just as importantly, you need to isolate more than just the battery. You need to take care of the altenator too as it will keep the engine running even if the battery is disconnected.

Technically, you are supposed to also isolate the fuel pump, though I would argue that anything that has all power killed will automatically isolate the fuel pump.

As to location, you can put it anywhere that is accessible by safety marshals easily and visibly from the outside. I've seen them on the bonnet, boot, and c pillar.

Most of them have a cable to the internal kill switch which manually triggers the kill switch. Again I'd argue that anything that will kill the system in the most extreme scenario is valid. 2 Normally open relays placed in series on the main power loop between battery, alternator and everything else will kill the system if power is cut to the relay, and with 2 you have redundancy even if one gets damaged and is forced closed. I'm pretty sure that the rules have changed which once require the cut off to be mechanical only. Duncan has the ruling on it I believe

[Duncan]

OK some more progress today. the main thing is the interior painting is finished and looks great (well as great as a backyard job done in the middle of winter car). of course it is already scratched but it was bound to happen sooner or later.

here it is with the race seat mounted up

and with the real seat (as modelled by mark)

and the boys were kind enough to cut the booster out with a hacksaw to make sure I didn't want to keep it

steering wheel is in the right place (well hopefully)

clutch pedal back in.

so much still to do but at least we are doing up bolts instead of undoing them at last

[Angus Smart]

Ill send you some details Shane. There fairly simple but using good quality circuit breakers, fuse blocks, relay blocks and terminals.

It really depends how much of the car you want to work and how you want it all to be laid out.

Andrew Ill certainly take the crank off your hands once its out ( or the whole bottom end if you decide to be gone with it)

Duncan ive got a couple of cranks now to choose from. Dont think ill need anymore.

I just want to get the dry sump sorted before swapping a billet crank back into the mix.

Glad you went with the Pauters, they are a great thing, I have been using them for years. They were expensive back when I bought them but like you found out very affordable now days.

Sweet, i'll see how i go this week getting the old block out, i'm almost all the way so it shouldnt take too much time.

and shall let you know about it.

My engine builder was excited about Pauters too.