Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i told you guys i have 250square meters of workshop space available. perfect for race-car storage and all workshop equipment available for use. enough room to store 6 cars with enough room to work on them, compressor, engine cranes, jacks, hoists, brake lathes, etc etc all at your fingertips. promise your cars wont catch v8 disease. Im serious, better than having them out in the rain.

lol that would be funny if it wasn't true. at least one of them has an engine in now. shame its only going to have gas.
i told you guys i have 250square meters of workshop space available. perfect for race-car storage and all workshop equipment available for use. enough room to store 6 cars with enough room to work on them, compressor, engine cranes, jacks, hoists, brake lathes, etc etc all at your fingertips. promise your cars wont catch v8 disease. Im serious, better than having them out in the rain.

i'm bringing mine down this weekend!!!

group tow anyone?? hehehe

group tow anyone?? hehehe

haha damn straight. has anyone got 3 spare car trailers so we can drop them off this weekend.

even better, can you move the workshop up to sydney for us????

seriously though, it really brings up the key challenges in this build. the actual work is OK, but Mark and I both have day jobs (have to "sponsor" ourselves somehow, and mine is 6dys/wk atm) which makes doing stuff during business hours tricky - eg I had to grab some stuff from nissan this morning and was an hour late to the office. And while Mark's driveway is as good a facility as a driveway could be, it is nothing like a full workshop with all the gear and machinery Stuart mentioned above.

I enjoy the challenge of doing all this, but if I could afford to drop it off to a workshop and have them build and maintain the car I would do it in a heartbeat.

haha damn straight. has anyone got 3 spare car trailers so we can drop them off this weekend.

even better, can you move the workshop up to sydney for us????

seriously though, it really brings up the key challenges in this build. the actual work is OK, but Mark and I both have day jobs (have to "sponsor" ourselves somehow, and mine is 6dys/wk atm) which makes doing stuff during business hours tricky - eg I had to grab some stuff from nissan this morning and was an hour late to the office. And while Mark's driveway is as good a facility as a driveway could be, it is nothing like a full workshop with all the gear and machinery Stuart mentioned above.

I enjoy the challenge of doing all this, but if I could afford to drop it off to a workshop and have them build and maintain the car I would do it in a heartbeat.

I'm pretty sure Stuart said he would do all the above for us!

apparently its his hobby!!

haha

p.s. i have access to a trailer!! and have a smokey diesel to tow it all!!

Stuart,

Many thanks for the offer, it bears some serious consideration. The main issue is your location. I try and fit a couple of hours in here and there where I can, and more importantly, my wife doesn't really mind me working on cars as long as I'm home, can come in for lunch and occasionally beat on the kids to keep them under control. She would not be so happy if I had to go off to do the work.

On the other hand, I really could do with some enforced discipline of working on one project at a time, so maybe dropping a shell off for storage and keeping the one I'm working on in the garage is not a bad idea.

Duncan and I will nut it out over the weekend and get back to you.

Again, thanks for the offer.

I think you are a bit ahead again Brad. BTW think thin for the windows....3 or 4mm will be perfect :)

Anyway....by popular demand, the nugget was worked on today, including a guest appearance by Neil.

So, the motor is in...

engine_in.jpg

No not to stay, just to trial fit the manifolds and turbos, and the flux capacitor.

flux_capacitor.jpg

looks like it is going to fit real well, and its nice and solid due to some good bracing. but I didn't get to cut anything :(

here are the turbos, china's finest where they are going to live:

chinasfinest1.jpg

chinasfinest2.jpg

also did some other stuff - fitting up the brake master cylinder, removing the front lower ball joint studs so we can fit longer ones (rolll centre adjustment/spacers), attessa sensor back in, sway bar links on and machining the brake brackets so they fit under 17s (sorry for the dodgy pic, but at least it is as dodgy as the car) - yes they are 356mm brakes under 17" rims :(

just_fit.jpg

haha no dry sump on this motor mate, that would double the budget of the whole car easy. will probably do so on the next motor though....lets kill this one first. Would love to give you car a run, particularly interested in how the brakes feel....

Mark.... :cool:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh man what a deal.... Funny enough (well not really) I sold a car to some old dude (buying for his Daughter) on a Saturday, He asked if she could take the car now and pay me the money on Monday as the bank wasn't open. Needless to say I told them to come back with the cash or get f**ked! Luckily the money seemed to magically appear in his pocket a few minutes later, so it all ended well (for me).
    • Gucci bags tend to hold their value well, so someone’s definitely going to get a nice find here.
    • @Ozdavroz Not going to get a better deal than that. Cash up front and ongoing payments. 🤑
    • I wouldn't even move it like gTSBoy is saying. I'd seriously do what Duncan is saying. Unplug the injectors, and unplug the fuel pump.  Pull the spark plugs out. Have a look in quickly with a bore scope if you want. At most, you can't spray a bit of oil into the bores so there is lubricant in there while you crank it. (Don't fill it, as it's only going to enter the exhaust, or spit at you out the spark plugs holes. Before cranking the engine on the starter, after a 5 year sit I'd probably prime the oil system manually. Easiest way to do so is to look at buying an oil filter relocation block, fit it to the engine. The pressure line going into the engine on this block you can then shove into some sort of oil pump, or put it into a bottle, with that hose going to the bottom. Fill bottle up with oil. Now seal the bottle and add a compressed air line to the top of the bottle. Feed compressed air in, about 20psi will be PLENTY. This will pump oil through the motor. Be aware, it also means it will drain back to the sump, so make sure you don't end up over filling the motor Now bolt the old oil setup back on (or fully install the remote filter system).   This way you've at least pushed fresh oil everywhere, then you're letting the motor crank to then do its own oiling. Then I'd tap the key to make sure it can start to crank, if the motor free bumps, then I'd just hit the key and let it crank. After letting it crank and seeing you can get real engine oil pressure, put new spark plugs in, reconnect the fuel system electrics, and send it.   Additionally, you can look to remove the fuel feed line to the rail, and divert it to a tank so you can get the bottom of the tank shit out, and just incase there's some crud sitting anywhere that gets passed the fuel filter (or is already ahead of it).   If fuel injection at the injectors ends up appearing to be a problem, you can dump the injectors into an ultrasonic cleaner for a quick flush clean out. Note this isn't as good as new injectors, or getting them pro cleaned and flowed    
    • All I can say is, that's still bloody awesome! No plans on caging it I'm guessing?
×
×
  • Create New...