Mark And Duncans R32 Build

[BOZ22N]

Your a funny guy,,,November,,,which bloody year.

Let me get my head around Raceworx schedule. We have to build Duncans engine,,,finish off his front end,,,play with his rear end and whatever else has to be done. This will all be done in the heat of summer. I was called a bludger on Sunday but did anybody you look at the days temps,,,KISS IT BOSS,,,THE STAFF WENT ON STRIKE. It was bloody hot and it only gets worse from here on in. In the mean time we have to get a gassed up GTR going,,,play more with the nugget and maybe even start on Marky's targa car.

Ah life sweet and easy sometimes.

At least my cars still going,,,which will,,,by the way need Marky to help me put headlights in very very soon.

Oh I did mention I'm getting too old for this shit,,,I think I have many times.

Love as always

Neil.

Gee wiz I hope they pay well.

Well if you guys need any help and by help I mean a spanner passer and beer holder I might come to see this beast being assembled.

Go the crack crappy Chinese manifolds, I have had one on my car for nearly 2 years now and it is still going strong, I think Dave (TO4 GTR) uses one too. Welcome to the club.

[BezerkR32]

have to pay the bills at the end of the day, i know where your coming from.

No we don't get to put anymore shiny bits on the bloody nugget. We get to push the nugget out of the way and get either your GTR worked on or Marks roady worked or even both.

The foreman has spoken.

[N1GTR]

Ive got one of the crack-for-sure manifolds, their marketing needs a bit of work though cause it hasnt cracked yet

[Risking]

Duncan whats the 2nd cage for??

Or do I already know?

Ill bring one of the cars up to drive around and around marks yard.

Should have some time to bring up the wanna be glass for you too.

[BezerkR32]

hey guys, i have a brand new r32 fibreglass boot lid for sale as it arrived to late for me to use as car was painted already. it weighs 8kg, is excellent quality, retains standard hinges and release . is strong as it has all the ribbing. i wish i could have used it but too bad. Cost me $360. be happy to get $300 back for it.

sorry to whore your thread duncan, but atleast i didnt put boobie pics in it lol.

[Duncan]

indeed you do know. will be good to get the windows in too.

I'm working through the wiring plan at the moment, this stuff is damn complex. nissan making me think backwards by putting the switch on the earth side of most relay coils not the + side. Or even putting the switch or relay on the earth side of devices altogether like the fuel pump instead of + side.

I kind of get it but its like trying to think backwards.

Hey Brad what is "vehicle speed sensor" pin 53? Its marked as being needed up I don't think it is any more? Also what is the "check connector" shown at pin 7? I know the "check connector" at pin 1 is the timing light loop, what is the other one? just dash signal?

And why the hell do so many earths go all the way back to the ecu instead of the chassis? I have 10 pins (34, 26, 50, 60, 30, 107, 108, 116, 20, 10) all marked as earths?

[Duncan]

hey guys, i have a brand new r32 fibreglass boot lid for sale as it arrived to late for me to use as car was painted already. it weighs 8kg, is excellent quality, retains standard hinges and release . is strong as it has all the ribbing. i wish i could have used it but too bad. Cost me $360. be happy to get $300 back for it.

sorry to whore your thread duncan, but atleast i didnt put boobie pics in it lol.

hahaha um yes. i could point out i didn't post any pics but i dont think that makes it right

I was looking everywhere for a fibreglass boot for this car and could not find them for under about 350 (same as you i guess). So instead we have put together a custom aluminium boot lid which looks like it will come up pretty nice, and it is outrageously light, we really need to weight it but only a couple of kg.

But anyone else building a club car should snap it up.....the standard boot is so damn heavy you would not beleive.

What are you doing instead?

[Angus Smart]

And i've decided i dont want to spend any more....

mmm bootlid.. its surely a concept!! but i think bills to be paid is the option at the moment!

[BezerkR32]

i ordered it a month before the car got painted, but unfortunately there was a delay and i didnt recieve it till after the car was already done, so have brand new lid. i might wait and see how the car goes for weight and paint it later if necessary. im using standard one atm.

hahaha um yes. i could point out i didn't post any pics but i dont think that makes it right

I was looking everywhere for a fibreglass boot for this car and could not find them for under about 350 (same as you i guess). So instead we have put together a custom aluminium boot lid which looks like it will come up pretty nice, and it is outrageously light, we really need to weight it but only a couple of kg.

But anyone else building a club car should snap it up.....the standard boot is so damn heavy you would not beleive.

What are you doing instead?

[phunky_monkey]

Where did you get it from Stuart, if you don't mind me asking? Looking for a CF/Fibreglass unit for my car

[unique1]

hey mark and duncan is that an Accusump i spot in those pics of the engine bay? if it is have u used one before and are they a genuine alternative to a drysump for saving our engines on the track? anyone else have any input on how good they are and whether they are worth buying for track car? i honestly dont want to go dry sump ive spent enough as it is so no suggestions to go that way.

sorry for the mini hijack too and the car is lookin like its coming together slowly but nicely

also ill be doing the wiring loom soon myself so any info or tips on doing a new loom please send them my way or post them up if u dont mind. I think 90% of it will be ok as im starting from scratch its the attessa stuff and deleting the abs part im not 100% sure on.

Edited September 30, 2008 by unique1

[Boosted Zed]

No we don't get to put anymore shiny bits on the bloody nugget. We get to push the nugget out of the way and get either your GTR worked on or Marks roady worked or even both.

The foreman has spoken.

Yes Duncan I thought something like that may have been the case, cross your fingers they last a few meetings.

Re Accusump, I run one on my speed boat Zed, and motor has not had a prob and has not been out of the engien bay for aobut 3 .5 years.. Sam Markov runs one with over 4004wkw for years in his race car and no issues either. Dry sump is obviously better but cheap go between. Funny GTR owners think zeds are unreliable. My zed and I know different. Beer Baron, waiting............

[haw001]

John, turbos are t03/04 fittings so needed bigger flanges. Also because the turbos are bigger in general and there is much more space than would be in a normal engine bay, we've moved them around for ease of piping the intake and exhaust. The rear one sits out a fair bit from the front to give it clear access for the intake and to offset the two exhaust outlets. We won't be able to take the motor out by dropping the cradle and lifting the car as the rear sits over the rail, but that's not a big deal.

I thought about re-flanging a set of custom dumps, there are a few sets lying around at home, but it was just easier to work with the china stuff than the cast stuff. Besides, we had to mate chinese turbos with chinese flangte

[Beer Baron]

Yes Duncan I thought something like that may have been the case, cross your fingers they last a few meetings.

Re Accusump, I run one on my speed boat Zed, and motor has not had a prob and has not been out of the engien bay for aobut 3 .5 years.. Sam Markov runs one with over 4004wkw for years in his race car and no issues either. Dry sump is obviously better but cheap go between. Funny GTR owners think zeds are unreliable. My zed and I know different. Beer Baron, waiting............

your car is only relibable because the accelerator has never made contact with the floor board...let me in there and we'll see how it goes, I reckon we get past about 7,000rpm and conrod shoots out through your fancy carbon bonnet.

hehe, 4004 kw is a good effort from sam though...

[Beer Baron]

John, turbos are t03/04 fittings so needed bigger flanges. Also because the turbos are bigger in general and there is much more space than would be in a normal engine bay, we've moved them around for ease of piping the intake and exhaust. The rear one sits out a fair bit from the front to give it clear access for the intake and to offset the two exhaust outlets. We won't be able to take the motor out by dropping the cradle and lifting the car as the rear sits over the rail, but that's not a big deal.

I thought about re-flanging a set of custom dumps, there are a few sets lying around at home, but it was just easier to work with the china stuff than the cast stuff. Besides, we had to mate chinese turbos with chinese flangte

nothing wrong with a bit of chinese flange. I prefer the japanese flange myself but don't want to offend anyone...

[phunky_monkey]

Haha nice

[haw001]

No we don't get to put anymore shiny bits on the bloody nugget. We get to push the nugget out of the way and get either your GTR worked on or Marks roady worked or even both.

The foreman has spoken.

You are right, but it's just fun when you get to to point of bolting new things on and it's getting close to being driveable!

[Risking]

Duncan mark decided that the Speed input was needed for diagnosis latter on down the track.

I dont have the diagram infront of me atm but from memory pin 7 is the tacho signal correct??

The check connector coming from that is not needed.

Pin 1 should be the output to the ignitor for cylinder 1 and on the output side if the ignitor should be the timing light loop.

You are correct all those pins should be grounded and you'll find that the all join up inside the loom and ground to one point at the front of the plenum. Two points actually.

The ECU and other control modules always drop relays to ground once you get your head around the negative triggers its all simple stuff.

Same as the Attessa, its not hard just need to follow the wiring diagram. Like I said to Mark if you cross out each wire on the paper as you move/shorten/remove it that way your always left with a loom thats only got what you need and your always sure everything will work.

Im starting on the white car hopefully over the long weekend. Think ill take even more out of it this time.

[BezerkR32]

i wonce did some extrude honing on a half chinese/half australian flange, excellent.

nothing wrong with a bit of chinese flange. I prefer the japanese flange myself but don't want to offend anyone...

[Duncan]

Yes Duncan I thought something like that may have been the case, cross your fingers they last a few meetings.

you know, thats exactly how a feel about the motor, not the manifolds

Brad I looked into wire 53 further, it is the speed signal from the dash speedo to ecu....no point keeping that the cluster is goooone. so no speed input or loggin in the standard ecu or PFC. but we do have a speedo that will run off the abs senders. and #7 (tacho's) check connector is gone - just no idea where it goes in standard loom. but it looks ok atm. I will post the whole car wiring diagram for a laugh once it is finished.