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Duncan mark decided that the Speed input was needed for diagnosis latter on down the track.

I dont have the diagram infront of me atm but from memory pin 7 is the tacho signal correct??

The check connector coming from that is not needed.

Pin 1 should be the output to the ignitor for cylinder 1 and on the output side if the ignitor should be the timing light loop.

You are correct all those pins should be grounded and you'll find that the all join up inside the loom and ground to one point at the front of the plenum. Two points actually.

The ECU and other control modules always drop relays to ground once you get your head around the negative triggers its all simple stuff.

Same as the Attessa, its not hard just need to follow the wiring diagram. Like I said to Mark if you cross out each wire on the paper as you move/shorten/remove it that way your always left with a loom thats only got what you need and your always sure everything will work.

Im starting on the white car hopefully over the long weekend. Think ill take even more out of it this time.

theres a blue car over here too when you get bored!! haha

Ill take it for another wrap tommorrow, or you can since it is technically your car now.

hmm not sure if jess will agree with that :thumbsup:

anyway....not much work on the nugget today (manifolds are modified, cut, welded and cleaned up) but Mark thought he needed another project on the go.

so....he took one of these:

r32.jpg

added this:

dryice.jpg

and created this in about 3 hours.

marksnewcar0.jpg

uh-oh we opened a vortex to another dimension. i blame that particle collider thingy. or maybe the flux capacitor in the nugget

marksnewcar01.jpg

marksnewcar1.jpg

marksnewcar2.jpg

marksnewcar5.jpg

marksnewcar6.jpg

speaking of which...how low is it?

sicbro.jpg

I guess the seller thought it would be cheaper if they removed the springs first

its amazing how much easier this is than the old tar and scraper caper. It took more like 3 days to strip the first car we did

did a little bit of work on my race car too....front end suspension is back together with all adjustable bits now (thanks Gary!) guess i better get a wheel alignment before I try and drive it again.

we are doing engine stuff tomorrow - putting the good rods in the nugget's motor and assembling my race car's motor (well up until sealing anyway)

Looks almost as low as mine. He'll hate any sort of angry gutter or speed hump with a passion

The worst part is when the front wheels come back down the other side of the speed hump its very very easy to ding the bendy part of the front pipes on the top of the speed hump

Dry ice is over rated. I left my race car at Benm's place for a few years and he did all the hard work for me!

Speaking of which We repaired the firewall and so forth today and added some much lighter pannels. So now its cage time Duncan!

Duncan Jess was actually floating around where the passengers seat used to be for the first drive.

Also had another wrap around the block in the Grey car when Charlie dropped past. Cant wait to get it back out this month.

cars are *never* finished.

we did some stuff on the nugget's motor today. we had a set of nice rods (toga? or something) but they were on the outside of the motor. so we took it apart and put them on the inside.

gee the head is pretty.

nugget_head.jpg

and it gets the nice forged pistons and rods.

nugget_pistons.jpg

while my race car gets the crappy standard ones

racecar_piston.jpg

its amazing how much easier this is than the old tar and scraper caper. It took more like 3 days to strip the first car we did

Did you just use a knife or the likes to get the gule off from them floor pan seals - pan to fire wall, pan to rear well etc

that body filler crap? heat gun, scraper and patience. and as you can see the dry ice was no good for vertical surfaces either. but still.....sooooo much easier.

jase....bigger but a little lighter too.

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