Mark And Duncans R32 Build

[Duncan]

well not much work on the car today, but we sure weren't bludging around.

firstly loading up the 200 odd possum traps fresh from the china container into the truck to make space for car bits.

then pulling most of the car parts out of the garage....

if anyone needs 3 HICAS racks we are the guys to call lol

[Duncan]

BTW we need a set of 33/34 gtr discs to fit up the rear brakes, they can be crappy or undersized. anyone got some they don't need?

[shanef]

are the gloves protecting the manicure?

[Duncan]

oh and we got the gas burner started after it's rebuild too so that is the first new motor for 2009. just running on petrol, the gas install still needs a little work to finish off

[shanef]

half way down is some 33 rotors - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wh...-A-t250768.html

[Duncan]

dont worry arbout the gloves check out the japanese welding boots. OH&S is always #1 priority in the raceworx workshop, right Neil?

[shanef]

their double pluggers, right?

[Duncan]

thanks mate, will check em out

[Dahtone Racing]

ive got a set of R34 front DBA4000s

they are in good nick though PM me if interested

[haw001]

After what Neil did to his finger last week, I don't care the the gloves make me look like the tooth fairy.

All that stuff was a bit depressing. I was starting to think that the other race car might not be too far away, but seeing it all piled together I see how much still needs to be done.

Still some issues with the gas guzzler. Still have oil burning problems, even after the rebuild, so there's something else wrong. Could be head, which sounds very tapety, or maybe the turbos, though there was no evidence of an issue with either when they were off. May be up for a new head or head rebuild right quick!

[Risking]

you did a bottom end rebuild and didnt touch the head despite it burning oil?

Chances are its got dead valve stem seals, or guides.

[haw001]

Yep, cheap quick and nasty rebuild. Worn race engine that had bad oil scraper ring and the head had already been rebuilt so I left it. My mistake so now I'm going to pay the piper. Fortunately the seals can be changed without removing the head, apparently. New skill to learn.

[BOZ22N]

Yep, cheap quick and nasty rebuild. Worn race engine that had bad oil scraper ring and the head had already been rebuilt so I left it. My mistake so now I'm going to pay the piper. Fortunately the seals can be changed without removing the head, apparently. New skill to learn.

Does it somke much out the exhaust on acceleration? or does it somke when not acceleration down a hill, ie using engine brake?

[Duncan]

haha you're asuming its been out of the driveway plus why would it need new valves seals the current ones have only done about 8,000klms

[Risking]

true that.

Seals can be done with the head on. I have a specificly made tool for changing them if you need it. Just need to bolt the tool down where the cam caps normally go and put compressed air into the bore to hold the valves up when the collets are taken off.

[BOZ22N]

haha you're asuming its been out of the driveway plus why would it need new valves seals the current ones have only done about 8,000klms

you guys really need to take this thing for a drive before you get to carried away.

[haw001]

Been for a drive up and down the street and will take it for another tomorrow. It seems to smoke some after a few minutes of idling on start, but not when driving. Head does sound very tappety though, more than normal. Smoke is not very pronounced, but it's there for a newly rebuilt engine, even for a cheap and nasty rebuild.

Prior to the rebuild, it used to start smoking at stop lights after I'd been driving for about 15 minutes and go away when driving.

[Neil]

Can we not talk about my finger,,,it still looks like absolute shit. Gloves are now my best friends,,,I'll take pink or purple any day.

I was a little more productive today,,,removed my cv's thanks to that great new tool Mark.

Neil.

[DJRIFT]

yeah well believe it or not I'm no race car chassis designer but my understanding is that uneven length double wishbones are the optimal setup for front or rear....the only real difference normally is the driveshafts in the rear but I guess you've already alllowed for them at the front. If you look at any proper race cars like Neils they just have the same or similar setup at both ends.

I guess one thing to think about though is the difference in arm length top and bottom. if you aren't using standard lengths the dynamic camber gain must be different - and assuming your new top arms are longer you will get less gain (=more static camber required = braking and stability impacts)

Re the bump steer - the current setting is about where the hicas rod sits, so it will not be right (the control arms have moved up but the steering arm hasn't). Since it is easy enough to move the inner end (and we use standard outer end), we can just measure it up once everything else is finshed.

BTW looking forward to those windows if you haven't got the materials yet can you grab 3mm for ours. I'm hoping that will be enough once the window frames are in.

i know i haven't posted in this thread yet but do you have any more info on how to change the mounting points or is that a bit of a secret between mates?

i have a R32 GTSt and i have read that a r34 rear cradle is a good upgrade for traction as the control arm mounting points are in better positions geometry wise. is what you have had done similar to running a later model sub frame?

thanks for any help you are able to give me.

[BOZ22N]

Does it smoke heaps more on start up? Might have to get some one to follow you down a hill and use the engine as a brake, bigger the hill the better.

Good luck.