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I've hear many methods from many different people, including a number of engine builders. Most don't bother with running in oil and run with a mineral based oil instead.

Personally, I use running in oil to get the engine started and for a few kms, say up to 50, then I dump it and the filter and change to whatever regular oil I use. After that I just drive the car normally running through the rev range for about 500kms before giving it any curry. Really, I don't think there is a bad way to run in an engine other than to run it hot and at the same cadence for too long. IE, don't just take in on the hwy for 1000kms with the aircon on when it's 40 degrees outside.

I am by no means an expert and have no scientific backing to my method. I've run in 4 engines so far an haven't had any issues. the first time I ran the running in oil for a full 1000kms, but I think that this was not the best idea. It's a bit thin to be using for so long. Scares you a bit because oil pressure is a fair bit lower running it. On the other hand, my newly rebuilt (on the cheap) engine smoked with running in oil and not with normal mobil 1, but it did turn out that some of the valve stem seals were leaking, so maybe it highlights some issues that may go un noticed.

I also think that there is some benefit to starting with a thin oil as the engine should be completely clean of any oil before assembly, and the thin oil will help to coat all the little areas better on first start.

Very busy day today, but nothing on the nugget. All me, me, me today. Had to get the combined touring/tarmac car ready to go down to Melbourne with me. Best laid plans, and no major disasters and still it got away from us and we didn't get finished. Rear cradle in, and the engine and gearbox are sitting ready to have a car dropped on them, but just couldn't finish up. Hopefully Wednesday and she'll be at least movable.

goddam gtrs i am sick of them atm. the nugget is about to go into storage for a few weeks so this thread will be all talk, no action (I know, so what is new?)

Brad - will be good to grab some headlights when we grab the windows next weekend. We are going to chuck a pair of narva 70mm driving lights in there, even sports sedans need to be able to do the day/night race :D

As for making the windows....see above! Brad has some great moulds for 32 coupe windows which make the whole thing easier, and he knows what he is doing with them. If hadn't come thru with them we were going to grab the windows out of the car, roughly cut plastic to shape, heat with heat gun until the window matches the glass contours and then cut to fit. Apparently that works OK too but the shape is not 100% right because it is moulded on top of the window not in place of the window as the proper moulds would do

unique1, yes we just welded box section to the subframe at the right point. the action bar added is 90o angle and about 5cm long to allow us some options if we have to move the arm up or down to adjust for bump steer. will try and get some pics before its put in mothballs but its pretty straight forward.

re running in, I think mark covered it pretty well, but also remember not to baby the motor. you need to run it at medium revs (say 3000/4000/5000) with medium-high but not very high load, for example driving up hills. if you don't load the motor the rings won't bed. I made this mistake a few motors ago, the motor needed a real thrash on the dyno to stop it burning the thin (5w50) race oil.

brad, I heard your wheel alignment went well, its a good sign that the custom geometry is on the right track. We picked up the basis for the custom lower control arms (ae86 lower control arms from just jap with adjustable rod ends at each end) and the custom upper arms are about to be made too.

my production car is running too and was tuned today as well with good results considering its runs 12psi boost. should be a good year if I can hold it together this time :) just needs a good wheel alignment and the data logger/engine monitor wired in and its ready to go.

I keep reading this thread every couple of days and im always amazed at the wealth of information thats in here. From engine to suspension to drive train, this is a bible on how to build a quick GTR. Now if only I could work out how to do half the stuff I see you all talking about :(

Edited by JiN_MaN

Yeah it did come out well Duncan.

I had it on the alligner back at Bob jane tonight to tidy up a few things after the Major bump steer set-up was done.

Im extremely happy with it but will shortly trying something different again. I ultimately want single spindle hubs with center nuts and the only feasable way is to re-do some of the arms again.

Im still not certain that it will all work seamlessly with the rest of the car yet but ill post up some photos once I know it all works together. There may be some issues with the rear lower control arms and sway bar mountings. Im trying to make the bars adjustable from inside the cabin using some ex super car style slide adjusters I have picked up but its proving difficult to design a system that wont foul on the sub frame we have and still keep a vertical sway bar link.

Next thing to do will be a new chromolly subframe for the front with additional mounting points for the upper and lower arms. Ill do that once I know the current set-up works and its worth spending the time and material doing so.

Biggest advantage will be the entire lowering of the engine into the sub frame as well.

Think I will end up with one of those loggers/monitors too.

Round one is coming up and its looking like I may be ready to enter as well, Providing I can get my NC back before then...

yeah I'm not going to make that unfortunately. on the other hand I am picking up the production car after its tune from UAS, they found a good 10% more power which will be very handy. Also an amazing result at 18psi for non cams events considering it has standard injectors/afms/cams etc I am very happy.

Here are some pics I forgot to post the other day.

This is a gecko

gecko.jpg

We also made some modifications to the brakes. Fitting 355 rotors under 17s was pretty cool but we made some futher changes and now they fit under 16" standard rims

355under16s.jpg

The car also went for its first drive today. Mark was the crash test dummy

roller.jpg

roller2.jpg

Car had to get from the top of the hill to the bottom so it just got a push. I hid behind a tree because I've seen Mark drive before.

So.....Mark got the first drive.

And.....being smart I though I would get dibbs on the first drive with a motor in the car.

To which Neil (proving he is the actually smart one), asked for the first drive with brakes on it lol.

Umm

how do them brakes fit under? you think f50's ever could?? i have some stockies at home with snow tyres that say punish me every time i walk past them.

p.s. Couldnt ever find that headlight Mark, its appears its grown legs!

What about those Male Model hands of mine looking after Mr Lizzard,,,.

Chris,,,Marky and I had planned on using a tow car in reverse,,,but just letting him loose was much more fun.

Benm,,,that is so funny,,,,"Watch out here comes Mark",,,oh shit I'd hate to be a tree".

Ryan,,,all my street now know I have a pit bike,,,Thanks Marky.

Andrew,,,no more beer for you.

Neil.

The gecko sure is random - was he stealing your parts in the middle of night?

actually NO,,,The gecko's are very common and they have become my good friends.

The boys have just finished training,,,look for them in your intake,,,on your next rebuild.

The girls are well trained and very deadly,,,they throw metal bits directly in to turbo's.

Neil.

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