Mark And Duncans R32 Build

[Duncan]

Why can't we be both FFS.

A little progress on the nugget. The diff has been shimmed, the exact setting is "damn tight". Also steering rack is in getting reco so it should go where we point it.

I do need to chase Brad about the windows but maybe he will just read this instead

[BOZ22N]

I am on my knees looking for the answer.

[Swiper the Fox]

Why can't we be both FFS.

A little progress on the nugget. The diff has been shimmed, the exact setting is "damn tight". Also steering rack is in getting reco so it should go where we point it.

I do need to chase Brad about the windows but maybe he will just read this instead

did you guys modify the hemisphere at all?

we machined 10thou off the housing to make it F-tight and also fitted needle rollers inside the housing to run on the 1/2 shafts as ours liked to tear metal off inside creating a bit too much play.

Edited January 31, 2009 by DiRTgarage

[Duncan]

not really sure, we sent it to Stuart Wilkins Motorsport to do.

Mark was pretty keen to give shimming a go but a/ we ran out of time, and b/ like gearboxes, diffs are black magic to me.

what type of bearings were they before you changed to roller bearing? I've never had a good look at them.

[Risking]

we just got back from oran park.

First time out with the new car finally. We used the shittiest michelins I had around the side of the house and used about 1 bar boost. So about 300kw perhaps

Managed an average of 48.68 and a best of 47.64 around the south circuit. Not to shabby for something that has only been set-up in the garage and never even driven till today.

Now have a few minor issues to sort out like no 4wd, dry sump breather tank and the need for much better rubber.

[BOZ22N]

we just got back from oran park.

First time out with the new car finally. We used the shittiest michelins I had around the side of the house and used about 1 bar boost. So about 300kw perhaps

Managed an average of 48.68 and a best of 47.64 around the south circuit. Not to shabby for something that has only been set-up in the garage and never even driven till today.

Now have a few minor issues to sort out like no 4wd, dry sump breather tank and the need for much better rubber.

Good work.

[Swiper the Fox]

not really sure, we sent it to Stuart Wilkins Motorsport to do.

Mark was pretty keen to give shimming a go but a/ we ran out of time, and b/ like gearboxes, diffs are black magic to me.

what type of bearings were they before you changed to roller bearing? I've never had a good look at them.

they just run in the housing...no bearings!...our 1/2 shaft was stripping metal off and flogging the housing out. So the housing was machined out further and needle rollers were fitted. A lot better now.

Diffs are a piece of cake...gearboxes though are some crazy shit and i leave that stuff for Terry to scratch his head over.

Edited February 1, 2009 by DiRTgarage

[Duncan]

they just run in the housing...no bearings!...our 1/2 shaft was stripping metal off and flogging the housing out. So the housing was machined out further and needle rollers were fitted. A lot better now.

I was afraid you might say that. I've never even pulled the diff in the production car out to check either, but since no metal is coming out when I change to oil I figured I can leave it there. Was it wearing on both side/is it possible something was just bent?

we just got back from oran park.

First time out with the new car finally. We used the shittiest michelins I had around the side of the house and used about 1 bar boost. So about 300kw perhaps

Managed an average of 48.68 and a best of 47.64 around the south circuit. Not to shabby for something that has only been set-up in the garage and never even driven till today.

Now have a few minor issues to sort out like no 4wd, dry sump breather tank and the need for much better rubber.

Good start, but there is no point having a race car without 4wd....you might as well be driving a zed.

How much difference could you feel with the geometery changes?

[Swiper the Fox]

I was afraid you might say that. I've never even pulled the diff in the production car out to check either, but since no metal is coming out when I change to oil I figured I can leave it there. Was it wearing on both side/is it possible something was just bent?

I only actually realised something was amiss after viewing the Ignition DVD footage...the car momentarily 'open legs' during a burnout. The car was still running 9's but I had noticed that the cars 60' times were getting slower each time i took the car to the track. On inspection after dismantling all the drive tabs were snapped off the clutch plates and the 1/2 shaft on one side of the hemisphere (the crownwheel side) was chewing out the housing causing a bit of lateral shaft play.

The best hemisphere's are in the later model R32's (with pull type boxes) and the R33 non-vspec cars. The hemisphere's are much larger in physical size and come with 1mm thicker 1/2 shafts. The std R32 GTR diff centre looks a little fragile when compared to these 'mothers'...Terry calls them a 'P-Trac' whatever that means and says they are a Jap 9inch and almost indestructable when modified.

The above info is a closely guarded Red R Racing secret so Dunc's if you could keep it to yourself that would be appreciated.

Edited February 1, 2009 by DiRTgarage

[Duncan]

lol its ok I'm sure no-one is watching this thread. of course if you are worried about actually breaking these diffs (don't often hear that) there is always r220 out of the z32, its actually larger than 9"

[Risking]

I was afraid you might say that. I've never even pulled the diff in the production car out to check either, but since no metal is coming out when I change to oil I figured I can leave it there. Was it wearing on both side/is it possible something was just bent?

Good start, but there is no point having a race car without 4wd....you might as well be driving a zed.

How much difference could you feel with the geometery changes?

Duncan you have to come and have a drive of it to really appreciate the suspension.

Doesnt feel like a GTR one little bit.

It did have some really weird mid to late corner pushing from the front end but I have a feeling thats due to the front tires being a little low on pressure. (28psi)

It had severe over steer on power at the exits when it came straight off the trailer but after a few dampner changes and a sway bar adjustment that was corrected.

The car is so composed under brakes compared to every other GTR I have ever driven. It turns in and straightens out perfectly. But the real test will be when I increase the corner speeds with new slicks in the next week or so.

We ended up with an AIM MXL pro data logger/dash for the car too.

Countless hours of callibrating suspension sensors and potentiometers ahead!!

I want the GPS and G sensors working mainly so I can log corner speeds vrs g forces and compare to another GTR I know of with less extavagant suspension but an outright track speed which is probably higher.

Edited February 5, 2009 by Risking

[DJRIFT]

we don't really have a good pic but the rear parcel shelf has been cut out too. you can see it in the roll cage pics.

speaking of which....Mark has been working on the cage for weeks. thankfully with rob who knows what he is doing lol

it looked roomy back there for a while without the parcel shelf.

plenty of bracing, cross bracing and even support for the subframe mounts. don't think we'll need a rear strut brace now

i know this goes back to page one of this thread but i am in the process of welding in a cage into my r32 gtst. one of my mates has 2 r32s with roll cages built by the same person. on the first one the rear legs only mount to the wheel arch on the cabin side of the rear fire wall but on the second one they did, they welded the rear legs to the strut towers in about the same place as yours. then put a bar between both strut towers like a strut brace.

i am planing on putting my rear legs onto the strut towers but was more so wondering about the removal of the rear fire wall. after pulling off some alloy sheets i had on as a temporary measure i fount the whole thing to be quite weak. did you find or do you know if it has much structural strength in regards to the rear window and surrounding parts? i am guessing that the roll cage should stiffen up the rear enough without it at all? and does it weigh much? the whole parcel shelf steel work?

and lastly id like to remove the big fat intrusion bars in the standard doors. are they easy to cut out without taking the door to an inch of its life and how much weight would you have saved there as i know the doors are heavy.

thanks in advance.

[Risking]

Better going to the struts and there is bugger all strength if you remove the rear shelf.

Mine goes to the top of the strut instead of the base.

Door wise cut those intrusions out they weigh 14Kgs each if you get the whole thing.

[DJRIFT]

Better going to the struts and there is bugger all strength if you remove the rear shelf.

Mine goes to the top of the strut instead of the base.

Door wise cut those intrusions out they weigh 14Kgs each if you get the whole thing.

ok cool ill get onto the doors.

so do you mean dont remove the shelf or there will be no strength or they have bugger all strength any way so it wont matter if you remove them?

thanks

[PHaT MR30]

ok cool ill get onto the doors.

so do you mean dont remove the shelf or there will be no strength or they have bugger all strength any way so it wont matter if you remove them?

thanks

I think he means you can remove them as they have no strength? I have seen a few removed on track cars

[BezerkR32]

just remember if you run fuel cells, surge tanks or dry sump tanks in the boot then it needs to be sealed from the cabin. i pulled all the shelf out and am sheeting it with .9mm alloy.

I think he means you can remove them as they have no strength? I have seen a few removed on track cars

[Tektrader69]

....you might as well be driving a zed.

But with less torque LOL

[DJRIFT]

I think he means you can remove them as they have no strength? I have seen a few removed on track cars

thanks tim thats the way i read it to but was not 100%

just remember if you run fuel cells, surge tanks or dry sump tanks in the boot then it needs to be sealed from the cabin. i pulled all the shelf out and am sheeting it with .9mm alloy.

thanks Bezerk. i already have a surge tank setup in the boot so it is sealed up now. i was thinking along the same likes as you as it would be easier than making one fit over the original shelf.

[Rhys9]

Any good news on the car??

Rhys

[Marlin]

Just spent the last half hour re-reading these past few pages guys. Very entertaining