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Mark And Duncans R32 Build

Duncan

By Duncan,
in Motorsport Builds

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evil_weevil Grand Master

evil_weevil

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Well I have a unit garage :D

"just" enough room for tyres and tools and the car! No light either :) GHEY!

Ah dam these practice days on sundays.

I know what you mean about learning to drive again, but for me, all I have had done was the nismo 1 way diff and it was jsut so much different!

Im used to open wheeling diffs haha

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Duncan
Duncan

wonder whatever happened to this car? This build will be old enough to vote by the time it's finished

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Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

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hahah I am missing 1-4 and borrow #6. #5 is the secret for me :D

Brad...I'm going to need some convincing about driving one of these boats without a brake booster. Like you said maybe a proper sized master cylinder will help but the one I drove without a booster was a disgrace....

benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
Posted

I have plenty of time and room, but no knowledge and limited funds. Maybe we need to make some trades...

I spent 6hrs in the past 2 days working on my road gtr and none on my track gtr. It probably needs a solid 12hrs work before it's ready to get a cage fitted :D

evil_weevil Grand Master

evil_weevil

Posted
Posted

Druncan, do you have or use one of those master cylidner braces for reduced firewall flex ?

Thoughts?

Well at least you can get 2 out of the 6 - thats better than 0 lol!

Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
Posted (edited)

No its simple duncan. You can have a drive of mine it will convert you instantly!!

The problem is in the pedal ratio. An R32 has a pedal ratio of roughly 4.1. However when you get rid of the booster you need a rough pedal ratio of 6.3

Once I worked out the best way to acheive that ratio (was pretty simple) the brakes I kid you not feel just like a boosted pedal but without the variance and incosistancy.

Im using those maters we spoke about on the phone the other day. They are perfect.

If you are using a 1 inch master the surface area is .785.

They say you can apply 100pounds of foot pressure consistantly

So... if you multiply 100 by the pedal ratio of 4.1 you get 410. divide that by .785 and you end up with 522pounds out of the master.

Fix the pedal ratio and now use 6.4 like I ended up with

100 by 6.4 is 640. divided by .785 (master surface area) and now you have 815pounds for the exact same pedal effort you have applied with you foot.

Pedal ratio is the length of the pedal (350mm I think it was) divided by the distance from the fulcrum to the center of the push rod hole.

Edited by Risking
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

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lol simple. thank god you understood that. :D

chris....yes we will but as you can see our brake master setup is still very much under discussion. But the master braces are an absolute must, the amount of flex in the firewall is frightening. One day open the bonnet and watch the master move while someone puts their foot hard on the brake.

fuel filler is also a bit tricky because we are trying to keep the standard filler. although it looks like we have the rest of the fuel system sorted.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

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also working on the suspension arm geometry at the moment. it looks like another one of those "black arts" where you could spend thousands trying to get it right. Hopefully we can go ok the first time.

evil_weevil Grand Master

evil_weevil

Posted
Posted

Next time the car comes out I'll get someone to do that, cheers Duncan!

Hey Duncan - I forget if its been covered, but are you and Mark going to keep it in the same colour scheme?

Risking Grand Master

Risking

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its simple to get right duncan. I played around for a while but now Ive done It I wasted a fair few hours.

I also found that the design of this pedal box allows the cage to pass right over the top of it inside the engine bay.

Chris Duncan is right I was suprised the first time I seen a fire wall flex. I think the best ones are those that are a part of the strut brace. M10 bolts dont seem all that strong when you start doing the maths behind braking forces!

Duncan I shall chat with you during the week regarding sump ideas. Might have something your interested in doing within the budget.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

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yeah we are leaving it as is (will probably need redoing by the time we are finsihed bashing and scratching it though, and we finally got a front bumper for it this week but in the wrong colour). At first I thought the colour was a bit over the top but its grown on me. interior is going to be red (or grey lol) because white is too hard to keep clean and blue sucks

skylinegtts Experienced

skylinegtts

Posted
Posted

interesting stuff,

brad im wondering how u managed to get the pedal ratio of 6.3?

how much extra pressure does the booster apply? did u have that figure and calculate it from there? or did u get it from trial and error

Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
Posted

Basicly the pedal ratio is determined by measuring the overall length of the pedal. Say its 350mm. Then you need to measure from the center of the main pivot bolt to the center of the hole where the push rod pin goes. (requires the pedal to be removed to measure accuratly) Thats 80mm for an R32

So if you divide 350 by 80 you get a pedal ratio of 4.3 which is within the ball park of what those in the know say is good to use with a booster assisted system.

Those same people say a pedal ratio of 6.3 is roughly best for non assisted systems.

To get a better pedal ratio all I did was work out how much shorter I needed to make the second measurement. Its a basic lever principal.

A distance of 55mm gave a pedal ration of 6.4 (when rounded up from 6.36)

Problem you may run into though is the push rod needs to be at a maximum angle of 7 degrees to the horozontal and shortening the distance obviously lifts the push rod up. 55mm was borderline and gave me an angle of 6-7degrees.

Im honestly not sure how much a booster adds as I was removing it so worked everything out the other way.

benm Grand Master

benm

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Posted

Here are some more ideas for your doors Duncan......

Im about 80% done on the passenger and about 50% done on the driver side. The bottom part of the window frame will sit under the alloy, then i'll get the frame welded to the door at the side mirror part and welded at the door lock end. Then just weld on some small tags spaced out around the frame to the replacement window can be screwed in tight. Still not quite happy with how it looks yet, might scrap that piece and bend it using a different method.

I still have my doubts if it will even all work yet need to make sure the door can shut properly etc.

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JAS-25T Grand Master

JAS-25T

Posted
Posted
Here are some more ideas for your doors Duncan......

Im about 80% done on the passenger and about 50% done on the driver side. The bottom part of the window frame will sit under the alloy, then i'll get the frame welded to the door at the side mirror part and welded at the door lock end. Then just weld on some small tags spaced out around the frame to the replacement window can be screwed in tight. Still not quite happy with how it looks yet, might scrap that piece and bend it using a different method.

I still have my doubts if it will even all work yet need to make sure the door can shut properly etc.

What did you end up using to bend it all?

BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
Posted

Have used that combo and it works very well, but for a bit more cash the Spaal fans from PWR are excellent. but more expensive.

next....thermo fans.

what are people using sucessfully? I am thinking cheap twins off something like a falcon....

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