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I haven't run the heater in the car for years, as long as you use fogex on the inside of the windows regularly (say every 3 months) and keep the windows clean it is fine. We run rainex on the outside too which seems to worry other drivers when we are heading down the freeway with wipers off lol.

This includes cold (eg Targa in Tassie), humid, mornings, nights, night races etc etc. Just keep em nice and clean and you will be fine. The AC does sit between the heater and fan and I couldn't be stuffed doing anything about it. Plus heater hoses only get in the way every second week when the motor needs to come out.

100kg is an amazing amount of work to get out, isn't it? Tar is only about 20kg. Looms are maybe 20kg saving if you ditch everything else. Add cages, big wheels, big brakes.....loosing weight in a car is damn hard work. Thats why we are being as hard as we can on this car.

well thats good to know, looks like the heater is going :P do u just block the two heater hoses or join them together on the motor?

i know 100kg is a fair bit, i was thinking the stock seats were gonna be 25-30kg each like most cars, they are only 15kg each so not much saving when using a fixed back race seat (they are around 10kg from memory), ive pulled the carpet, parcel shelf, rear seat, and rear trims and its only 25kg so far, then i got spare tyre, boot trims, heater box, air con, stereo, strip the looms, body deadener in the car, hicas and lines, abs, etc.

Pity the stock wheels are soo light so u will gain weight there if anything and brakes as u said. I am gonna be running a rwd setup half of the time with a rb26/30 with 30 sump, no front diff, no front axles, rb25 box or gtr box with cut off tf case so thats abit of weight there too.

The proper track engine is a rb27 though and awd so ill gain weight but its got alot more power than the 30 motor. I wont be going a rollcage just yet until i see how i like the car and its initially only for local track days and drift practice events so no door to door action or anything serious :banana:

Edited by unique1

yeah thats a good call anf, lots of the cars at targa ran 12v electric heaters to demist. we just never had problems without. except in the morning before driving of course we had to wipe off the snow/ice/condensation before leaving.

the rear has always been tricker for us, once the cage is in it gets very hard to fogex the rear windows

ahh well in the new car we have removed all the wiring in the rear. and the front. and the dash. actually we probably should put some of it back later on

And in the race car there was a minor incident when removing the rear wiper which resulted in a new window....demister never worked since and I've never got around to looking into the wiring :P

Go silver on the inside of the engine bay imo guys! It makes it so much easier to see fluid leaks etc and is also brighter in there and just heaps easier to see everything :teehee:

And on the inside go with whatever the main colour is going to be outside. Always looks professional and "built". Just my 2c ;)

It's amazing how a coat of primer makes the car look more finished. It's still a long way off, but at least it looks better.

I think that we are going to go red throughout, as we have 4L of the stuff and it's mixed 1:1 with thinners so there's plenty to go around.

It's surprising how much paint you use covering just the inside. At a guess, we will put back another 5-10kg in paint alone.

Every bit of weight savings adds up to a few more big macs that we can have before a race!

In terms of returns on effort, the biggest weight savings would be had from the doors and the boot, both lid and removing the floor.

Even without changing the glass, the doors are very heavy as they are pillarless. Even if all you do is cut out the guts and replace the standard trim it will be a significant savings.

Also, having smashed quite a few cars in my day, a roll cage is a very very very good investment. Even if you don't think you will do any damage the gains you will get in handling will be well worth it.

Try lifting a GTR from one corner with a jack. You'll get a good 5-10cm of lift from one wheel without any of the others coming off the ground. They have serious chasis flex. Try the same with a caged gtr and you'll find that it lifts one side of the car almost evenly. This does an a staggering thing for the handling.

Mark

yes

yes

yes

lol

this one:

JAZ-250-008-01%20drag%20race%20fuel%20cell.jpg

16 gallons however much that is. bought it purely because it was a. cheap and b. had a level sender.

once the painting is done (really should do the subfames as well now the chasis looks good) we need to fabricate some mounts for the fuel system, rewire the car (we have decided to do it all except the engine loom, I hope you are still helping brad lol), mount the battery and attessa resoviour in rear passenger side, modify the rear subframe, get the new suspension arms in, reco the driveshafts, shim the diff, put some brakes on, put the windows in and door trims on, mount up the seats and harnesses, build the dash (standard one is heavier than you'd think), sort the headlights, water to air intercooler and piping, airbox, second radiator, oil cooler.

once we've done all that, all we need to do is get the motor finished (turbo and wastegate mount mostly) then go for a hoon.

russ...I've seen what you guys are taking on, you might take longer but it will be a hell of a result...

I have pics of the rear suspension you two idiots were after,,,sorry Marky forgot about the cage pics you also wanted,,,I was busy kicking Skyline butts. The Gibson car ran all Glass which I had forgotten,,,but it does run factory electric windows and no demister on the front screen.

Sorry no help comimg my way in the next few weeks,,,I'm racing,,,but I might need your welding help Mark.

Neil.

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