Mark And Duncans R32 Build

[Angus Smart]

Pauter and mahle pistons came to......

2,027.21 + 50 international cc fee (1,758.00 usd in total)

which gives me about 10 bucks for shipping if the total was $999 rods and $750 pistons.

not bad really payments come out today so will see how long it takes to get here.

[Risking]

Thats a good deal for those. Well done.

For those who are interested this is ever last inch of wiring removed from an R32 GTR AFTER the bare engine essentials were stripped from the main harness.

Its heavy and the majority is usless crap that didnt work anyways.

Andrew if your interested in those bits still your welcome to come check it all out. I can make up a second billet bracket for that pump if you'd rather that over the heavy steel one. I've also got lengths of perform-o flex hose I wont be needing as well. I used it for scavengers but still have enough for another set-up.

Teaser for Duncan......

Edited August 28, 2008 by Risking

[Angus Smart]

Holy f**kin shit,

thats alot of wire!! you'll make a mint with all the copper there

dry sump looks very good! but for now i am putting my spendings on hold for business purposes, not going to sell the car tho and will get the engine built in the meantime.

i like this thread! good for chatting hopefully duncan and mark dont mind!

[Duncan]

hell no its all on topic to me! good work on the loom there brad.

[haw001]

Look at all those speedflow fittings and braided line! Hate to think what they cost Seriously though, have you got any more pics of the setup? It's not on the cards right now, but I'm interested in the work done. Any reason why you have to mount the pump to the engine, wouldn't it have been easier just to mount it in the engine bay? I can see keeping the lines short, but doesn't the setup mess with the power steering pump? (and air con of course). Really hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like it sits way forward, far enough to foul on the radiator, but that my just be the photo.

Feel free to use the thread for whatever jibber jabber anyone wants, just don't start attacking me for converting the road GTR to LPG. I got enough of that from my other thread!

[JAS-25T]

Feel free to use the thread for whatever jibber jabber anyone wants, just don't start attacking me for converting the road GTR to LPG. I got enough of that from my other thread!

You did what?

[BezerkR32]

pump is mechanical and is driven via a belt off the crank. so unless the engine is solid mounted, you have to mount it on engine. also keeps belt shorter to eliminate it being thrown off which would be bad. some pumps are also gear driven. not sure if air will factor into equation on race car.

Look at all those speedflow fittings and braided line! Hate to think what they cost Seriously though, have you got any more pics of the setup? It's not on the cards right now, but I'm interested in the work done. Any reason why you have to mount the pump to the engine, wouldn't it have been easier just to mount it in the engine bay? I can see keeping the lines short, but doesn't the setup mess with the power steering pump? (and air con of course). Really hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like it sits way forward, far enough to foul on the radiator, but that my just be the photo.

Feel free to use the thread for whatever jibber jabber anyone wants, just don't start attacking me for converting the road GTR to LPG. I got enough of that from my other thread!

[Risking]

Mark I do have more photos of it that I can put up latter.

The sump modifications are pretty extensive and interesting to look at.

The earls lines I bought were not as expensive as one may think. I get 50% off through earls so it came down drasticly.

Yep pump needs to be mounted to the engine for movement reasons and Im using swivel seal hose ends as they also have some give in them too.

I choose the performo flex hose as its really really light compared to the usual braided line and its easier to work with.

Power steering remains as it was (just) and the air con is long long gone on this car.

The pump is a fair way forward but not as much as the photo indicates. it lines up with the mandrel which is 40mm further forward than the orignal crank pulley end.

[unique1]

so when u guys remove the wiring looms and start from scratch do u cut the plugs needed off the looms and solder onto new basic loom u make up or do u use new plugs?

whats needed to make it run and have basic essentials working...

front and rear lights

brake lights

indicators

battery

alternator

starter motor

attessa ecu (how many wires need to be actually used to get this working?)

standalone engine ecu

power window switches

fuel pumps

ignition barrell

aftermarket dash (stack or aem)

windscreen wipers

im removing hicas, air con, abs, dash gauges so dont need any of that stuff.

anything im missing?

Edited August 29, 2008 by unique1

[haw001]

Ah... makes more sense now. Was being sarcastic about the air con, but assumed the pump was electrically driven so that flow could be controlled independent of engine revs. Mechanical would of course have to be fixed where it is.

[Risking]

so when u guys remove the wiring looms and start from scratch do u cut the plugs needed off the looms and solder onto new basic loom u make up or do u use new plugs?

whats needed to make it run and have basic essentials working...

front and rear lights

brake lights

indicators

battery

alternator

starter motor

attessa ecu (how many wires need to be actually used to get this working?)

standalone engine ecu

power window switches

fuel pumps

ignition barrell

aftermarket dash (stack or aem)

windscreen wipers

im removing hicas, air con, abs, dash gauges so dont need any of that stuff.

anything im missing?

Basicly yes. I have lost all the fuse boxes and majority of the relays as well.

Im using front lights and tail lights

Brake lights

alternator

starter

Attessa

haltech & data logger

pumps

dash

wipers (one speed)

And thats about it.

Use a toggle switch for ignition and loose the barrel all together ( a few theifs did that for me a while ago)

use decent switchs for everything and get rid of all the factory switches for wipers lights etc

[BezerkR32]

I bought these switch clusters from ACA. there are different combinations and colours. they look trick and were reasonably priced. using them for lights and wipers and obviously ignition/start.

Basicly yes. I have lost all the fuse boxes and majority of the relays as well.

Im using front lights and tail lights

Brake lights

alternator

starter

Attessa

haltech & data logger

pumps

dash

wipers (one speed)

And thats about it.

Use a toggle switch for ignition and loose the barrel all together ( a few theifs did that for me a while ago)

use decent switchs for everything and get rid of all the factory switches for wipers lights etc

[unique1]

sounds pretty easy then, how many of the attessa wires need to be hooked up to work?

who is ACA exactly? are they this company? http://www.aca-auto.com.au/

do u all run a small aftermarket fuse box for the stuff or inline fuses or skip fuses all together?

[Risking]

If you look at the diagrams in the manual you need to use everything attessa related except the ABS stuff.

There are little things like reverse lights etc that you dont need to wire into the attessa.

Just use a small fuse block which you can mount anywhere.Yep that the ACA he'd be refering to.

Mark heres a few more photos of the sump. The tank lines are done properly now and filters all secured.

It really did hurt throwing the ross balancer up in the lathe to machine it for the mandrel but it was the way I wanted to do it.

Edited August 30, 2008 by Risking

[Duncan]

well we did do some stuff today, but not a lot.

put the threaded fittings in with neil's toy to hold the radiator support

couple of engine bay bits - brake lines, resistor, radiator overflow, clutch slave. bonnet and stay back on for now

front hubs back on with bearings in, now it rolls again.

drilled the brake pedal but not yet fitted it or the master cylinder

thats about it I think.

[Risking]

Ive got an engine back in mine now. well most of an engine anyways.

Had to put it back in without a crane so two of us struggled to pick up a bottom end and get it in but it happened.

Dry sump lines all made and loom pretty much finished off besides the condute covering.

Edited August 30, 2008 by Risking

[zebra]

Sounds Like Hard Work

BTW Risking - Isnt it a CAMS requirement to have the Oil System Isolated from the cabin?

[dazmo]

Mark heres a few more photos of the sump. The tank lines are done properly now and filters all secured.

Hey Risking just a quick bit of advice about the dry sump tank location.

Not to sure about the cams regs with the tank mounted in the cabin but it may be an issue with scrutineering.

The concern i have is that it will get very fumey in the cabin breathing your dry sump tank in there as i have my tank in the boot and it still gets quite fumey in the cabin while stationary as you will be surpised just how much the tank will breath.

I will even be going to the extent of venting my boot lid and sealing off the rear bulk head as much as possible. Wont be an issue when on the track but if you are waiting in pit lane for any extended period of time it will be a issue.

[haw001]

I like the big tank, but I have to agree, having it in cabin would not be my first choice. Having rolled a few times (and by a few times, I mean both multiple rolls in a single incident and multiple incidents!) I would not like hot oil in the cabin with a breather on the top. Last time I ended up upside down, and I don't think my navigator would have been too happy with 130 degree oil running down his back.

Something to consider, is that there is the potential for the engine to be still running in a crash, which would have the pump still pumping oil into the cabin.

What about the spot where the ABS pump used to be, or over where the brake booster used to be?

[Risking]

The photo of that tank is actually a bit old now

Im aware of the breathing issue and the filters on the tank came with it and were mearly there to stop stuff getting into it. I have alloy tube with quick release clamps that extend into the boot to a separate breather tank now. The top fitting is now a sealed cap for filling only.

The tank being mounted inside the car is no issue and its already passed a pre-event inspection with the right breathers fitted.

Edited August 31, 2008 by Risking