Mark And Duncans R32 Build

[haw001]

The dry ice works great. Don't know about burns, I decided to use gloves. -70 is a little cold even for me!

Couple of tips for those doing it, get extra dry ice. I got 7 kgs, and it was just enough, but it would have been easier and less messy to get 10kgs.

Keep a separate 2kg in a bag for doing odd shaped parts, vertical etc.

Also a hammer works wells, but a cold chisel works better. I found towards the end, that you can crack it with the cold chisel and lift it easy with a scraper without doing any damage to the paint, but for it really to work well, you need to cover the area properly with the dry ice. As I ran low, it got harder to do easily.

90% of the job was done in under an hour, but there's still a few hours cleaning the vertical parts and the silicone sealer.

[phunky_monkey]

I used gloves, but I leant on a piece with my elbow and started wondering what that stinging was... the burn hung around for weeks!

And good point on the extra ice. I started running low and it was a lot less effective. I could still hear it cracking, but it just didn't seem to come off in as large a chunks as it did with the fresh ice.

[N1GTR]

What valves are you guys using in the race car head?

[haw001]

Can't remember for sure, but I think they are 1mm oversize.

[evil_weevil]

gee's!!!!

Another project car!?!!

dammit.

All you guys with time and knowledge and the space to do it all! Argh!!! I wish I knew how to!

[Beer Baron]

head looks nice, valves look nice, but I'm surprised you guys didn't remove the squish zones while the head was being ported.

[benm]

time + space is easy, knowledge is the hardest bit of a build.

[haw001]

I personally don't know all the theory about it, but I had a long discussion with the engine builder and he was fairly adamant that squish zones of the rb26 heads are pretty good for a turbo setup. Much more and the piston's would have to be dished to allow valve clearance. The rb26 is a high compression engine, so cleaning the squish zones then decking it has it's set of problems.

Head porting is a magic art, one which I don't profess to know very well. It's not just a case of bigger is better. Velocity is very important for turbo spool up and so you don't want to port a RB26 head too much or you will gain top end HP at the expense of usable torque.

[Beer Baron]

all true, and i've looked into 26 head porting a lot and talked to lots of different GTR tuning shops now in Japan and in oz too. and the ones whose opinions I trust the most and who have the RB26 experience to back it up tell me (in simple terms). street RB26 build = leave them alone, street/club track use build = remove one side, high power/high boost/track/drag use = remove both as it will enable you to run more boost, and more timing before detonation sets in. most of the serious race RB26 engines I can think of off the top of my head have done something with them, either removed one side, or removed both all together. we can agree on one thing though, there are lots of different opionions out there!

to expand further.

squish zones intact gives good off boost and boost building reponsiveness, but propensity for knock with any sort of decent ign advance and decent boost levels

one side removed is a one foot in each camp solution. lose a bit of the off boost dirvability, gain the ability to tune with more boost and more timng before knock

both sides, lose off boost and boost build torque but gain it back and then some with the ability to safely run big boost, and more timing.

[DRD-00F]

I love this thread

I'm really just posting so then it stands out more... I barely know what most of you are saying

[haw001]

Steve,

Glad we finally fooled someone with 31 pages of posting! We all got together and invented a secret code of automotive bullshit hoping to lure someone in.

Seriously though, take everything you read with a grain of salt. Everything is an amalgamation of opinions and not necessarily based on any fact. This forum is a good source of information, but all of us have differing views, which is what makes this so much fun!

[haw001]

all true, and i've looked into 26 head porting a lot and talked to lots of different GTR tuning shops now in Japan and in oz too. and the ones whose opinions I trust the most and who have the RB26 experience to back it up tell me (in simple terms). street RB26 build = leave them alone, street/club track use build = remove one side, high power/high boost/track/drag use = remove both as it will enable you to run more boost, and more timing before detonation sets in. most of the serious race RB26 engines I can think of off the top of my head have done something with them, either removed one side, or removed both all together. we can agree on one thing though, there are lots of different opionions out there!

to expand further.

squish zones intact gives good off boost and boost building reponsiveness, but propensity for knock with any sort of decent ign advance and decent boost levels

one side removed is a one foot in each camp solution. lose a bit of the off boost dirvability, gain the ability to tune with more boost and more timng before knock

both sides, lose off boost and boost build torque but gain it back and then some with the ability to safely run big boost, and more timing.

Rich,

I understand the theory, but when you were talking to others about it, was there any discussion of decking the head to drop compression back down? From what I get from your post, removing one or more squish zone would essentially increase the volume of the chamber thus reducing the compression.

If this is the case, and lower compression is desired, couldn't a similar result be achieved by using a thicker head gasket.

My discussions with the engine builder involved more profiling the squish zones and then decking the head so reduce the compression back to a desired point. It was more about developing exhaust velocity and terminal speed on the piston.

Again, I need to point out that I'm no expert, more just trying to suck up info from different sources and trying to understand it better.

[DRD-00F]

Steve,

Glad we finally fooled someone with 31 pages of posting! We all got together and invented a secret code of automotive bullshit hoping to lure someone in.

Seriously though, take everything you read with a grain of salt. Everything is an amalgamation of opinions and not necessarily based on any fact. This forum is a good source of information, but all of us have differing views, which is what makes this so much fun!

Haha... I KNEW something was up!

Yeah I know, I learnt that a long time ago, there really isn't much solidarity to anything when it comes to cars... Like me for instance, I spent about 3 grand on stage one engine hardware (zorst, ECU, tune, intake) to gain 14kw... I thought it was very interesting

My bank balance was very angry with me though

I just like reading about what goes into something like this, it's something that I don't think I would ever see anywhere else

[Angus Smart]

all true, and i've looked into 26 head porting a lot and talked to lots of different GTR tuning shops now in Japan and in oz too. and the ones whose opinions I trust the most and who have the RB26 experience to back it up tell me (in simple terms). street RB26 build = leave them alone, street/club track use build = remove one side, high power/high boost/track/drag use = remove both as it will enable you to run more boost, and more timing before detonation sets in. most of the serious race RB26 engines I can think of off the top of my head have done something with them, either removed one side, or removed both all together. we can agree on one thing though, there are lots of different opionions out there!

to expand further.

squish zones intact gives good off boost and boost building reponsiveness, but propensity for knock with any sort of decent ign advance and decent boost levels

one side removed is a one foot in each camp solution. lose a bit of the off boost dirvability, gain the ability to tune with more boost and more timng before knock

both sides, lose off boost and boost build torque but gain it back and then some with the ability to safely run big boost, and more timing.

I was actually going to ask someone about head porting in the coming weeks, seems like now is the time.

My engine builder was originally a head machinist/head rebuilding guy so hes pretty switched on when it comes to heads and porting. he explained a bit about what he was going to do and showed me a rb26 head he was actually working on. which was a full head port job everything was really enlarged and cam areas were cleaned up alot to fit very large.

i was wondering how far to actually go, i guess a good cleanup on both sides is a good idea, remove the bump on the exhaust and maybe a bit of a knife edge, do i need to go any further??

i plan to run atleast 26+ pound or whatever the turbos will pump efficiently.

Mahle pistons, Pauter rods, 800cc injectors, and i guess a broken gearbox somewhere there too!!

[Duncan]

time + space is easy, knowledge is the hardest bit of a build.

I love this thread

I'm really just posting so then it stands out more... I barely know what most of you are saying

hahah I've never let knowledge get in the way of enthusiasm

[BezerkR32]

your a prime advocate for a NIKE commercial, Just do it. lol

hahah I've never let knowledge get in the way of enthusiasm

[Duncan]

andrew....our head has an interesting theory, who knows how well it will work but the headjob buys have done lots of different motors over the years.

anyway....the inlet is ported extensively, but the exhaust was only lightly ported/cleaned up, the basic idea being to keep exhaust velocity up for turbo response.

the head guy picked up a calculator before the air grinder. I thought that was a good sign

[haw001]

Anyone have any head bolt washers to spare? I was bolting up the head and nearly shit my pants when something went snap and all of a sudden the bolt had no tension. I thought it was a snapped head bolt, but it turned out to be a washer. Must of had a hairline crack. Anyway, they're very hard to find. I have a few smaller ones, but I can't drill them out, they are harder than my drill bits.

[Duncan]

oh.

maybe we should lash out and buy a set:(

[Angus Smart]

how many do you need?

you can get the bar at the same time too