Mark And Duncans R32 Build

[Risking]

For a full Chromolly cage you need to have it engineered if the material used is outside the specifications outlined by CAMS

44.5 OD 2.5mm wall OR 50 OD 2mm wall for the main hoop

38 OD 2.5mm wall OR 40 OD 2mm wall for everything else

If its outside that you need to have it done as far as I have been made aware. Or if the basic cage design is different to those CAMS outlines for the category.

Typically with the material most people go smaller diameters or less wall thickness to save weight. Those cages require certification. All my material fits the guidlines and according to the people who will be doing the pre inspection it is fine.

I believe Mark is only using molly for the main hoop and everything else is CDS??

[Duncan]

no other way around actually chromolly is too expensive to bend.

[Duncan]

btw one the weekend we spent some time pulling the rear subframe off. only 2 of the bolts snapped off, the other 10 were just the stiffest bolts we have ever undone. and being rusty they didn't free up after they were cracked off, they stayed tight all the way. bloody 20 year old shitboxes.

thats one of the best things about a race car. after everything has been off for the first time and replaced with new or cleaned up, everything is sooooo much easier every time in the future.

Now.....help needed! Does anyone know where we can get a silicon Y pipe - 90mm one side, 2x 50mm inlets? Or even detail of a place that can custom make one? If not there's going to be some tricky welding to get the intake sorted

[Angus Smart]

I'll ask my friends for you Duncan.. tho not too sure i've seen it before.

[JAS-25T]

Happy birthday Mark!

May the year ahead bring you less working on cars and more driving them!

[Angus Smart]

Hey guys i tried searching, but no luck..

i remember somewhere on here before a kit you could buy from either Japan, Or the Us... to Adjust your wheel align yourself? i dont remember string or anything but something you put on your hub/wheel. you could buy 4 or 2 or 1? i forget. anyone remember the link??

Cheers

Andrew

[BezerkR32]

i know with ANDRA you have to get your car teched every couple of years, is this the same case with CAMS? i know my cage meets ANDRA but not sure what the go is for CAMS, and yes, 3k is on the money.

For a full Chromolly cage you need to have it engineered if the material used is outside the specifications outlined by CAMS

44.5 OD 2.5mm wall OR 50 OD 2mm wall for the main hoop

38 OD 2.5mm wall OR 40 OD 2mm wall for everything else

If its outside that you need to have it done as far as I have been made aware. Or if the basic cage design is different to those CAMS outlines for the category.

Typically with the material most people go smaller diameters or less wall thickness to save weight. Those cages require certification. All my material fits the guidlines and according to the people who will be doing the pre inspection it is fine.

I believe Mark is only using molly for the main hoop and everything else is CDS??

[Duncan]

happy bday mark!

[Neil]

happy bday mark!

Oh shit I forgot,,,Happies for yesturday Marky,,,now i'm to E/c

[Duncan]

andrew - that was in the suspension section, I remeber seeing a couple of options. I will grab something to do wheel alignments in the next year or 2 but right now I have nfi what I am doing with it.

Stu - no inspections requierd for CAMS cages once they are approved/homologated. But if a scruitineer spots damage they may require a full check.

And Mark - happy birthday....I'm pretty sure that was Kel posting above lol. But I hope you had a great day, for instance rolling around under the car all day

Hopefully some progress on the rear end tomorrow.

[haw001]

Thanks for all the Birthday wishes!

Have had internet troubles for a couple of days, so haven't been online.

Did spend the afternoon of the 21st rolling around under the car getting the new rear cradle in drilled and bolted up. I took my time with this one as Rob had put the fear of god in me over my ability to drill the holes in the right place so I made up a little plastic template to make sure that I got it centered. So I drilled pilot holes, measured against the standard cradle, then drilled the holes to 11mm which is the size of the first taper on the cradle pegs.

Next came the hard part, which is to try and raise the damn thing in place single handed. With it sitting on 2 jacks I had to run to either side of the car, raising each side a little at a time, at least 5 times to lift it into place. In the end it proved to be ok, with one hole about 1mm out and easy to correct.

Repeat the process another 3 times, once to find the holes were slightly too small for the second taper, another to find that the modifications fouled on the chassis rail requiring some butchering with a angle grinder, and a final time to bolt it up, and the whole thing ended taking up the entire afternoon, but I'm really happy with the results. The cradle may as well be welded to chassis. I'll post some pictures soon.

[Duncan]

hmm no pics today so y'all have to imagine.

the frankencradle is now complete. It has some wonderful workmanship from UAS and Rob, and then there is the butchery we have done to it. luckily black gloss paint makes anything look good. will be ready to bolt it all up next weekend no everything including the no-cas is complete.

also we have ended up giving in and going 1/2" fuel lines after all, so the standard fuel lines and the carbon cannister breather line have been removed. and so has another hicas pumpy thingy up the back. all off to the bin

the fuel pumps, filter and surge tank location is sorted with their little firewall. we just need a friend with a cool stud inserty thing to put it in place.

and the mounting for the acusump is pretty much sorted - bar bolted to the inner guard with some really big hose clamps

did a very long list of hose and fittings we need for the oil lines and cooler, power steer cooler, water to air intercooler/flux capaciter, and fuel system. Its a crazy mix of AN, NPT and barbed fittings at the moment - we are going to run standard rubber lines with push on fittings (barbed and hose clamps) everywhere to keep the cost down - we haven't been convinced we need to go 10x the cost for braided stuff everywhere.

and the re-wiring of the car is coming along OK - still in the planning stage but we have picked up the battery, big circuit braker, distribution boxes, common earths, gauges etc. still need more switches and warning lights but I'm going to grab them all at the same time once we have a complete list. the wiring is pretty complex even for the "bare essentials" attessa in particular is crazy - more wires there than the bloody ecu

Also got the motor for my race car ready to drop back in, but that doesn't really belong in this thread

[tacker]

Ducan thought i had hit the jackpot yesterday when picking up my new old gearbox i found a good set of remote canister tien circuit masters and thought about the nugget but they are for a R33 i could have cried.

What are you doing for dampers anyway

[Neil]

We just need a friend with a cool stud inserty thing to put it in place.

No bloody rest for me then. 2 weeks rest would do me some good,,,my back is killing me.

Love as always

Neil.

[haw001]

No bloody rest for me then. 2 weeks rest would do me some good,,,my back is killing me.

Love as always

Neil.

Must be from all that driving, you bastard! At least you get a bit of a break for the next 2 months.

[haw001]

[Neil]

Must be from all that driving, you bastard! At least you get a bit of a break for the next 2 months.

Yea sorry about that Marky.

I won't be much help this sunday,,,I have a bloody wedding to go to and knowing you 2 I wouldn't leave till some un-godly hour.

Duncan you are more than welcome to pick up the thread/stud inserter if ya want it.

Neil.

[haw001]

Have a few for me

[BezerkR32]

a little off topic guys, sorry, but do you intend on running a brake bias controller? is it necessary at this level, and if so where is the best place to purchase one? i was wondering whether to leave it for know and do it later.

[Neil]

Stuart,,,Actually it not off topic mate,,,very on topic. The boys have a screw valve one thats will be tapped into the brake lines.

It's not always really necessary but a great advantage.

If you have changed to bigger calipers and discs then it becomes vital especially in bad weather where you might need more rear brakes.

Neil.