Jump to content
SAU Community

26dett Turbo Fitting Procedure

heller44

By heller44,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

heller44 Mentor

heller44

Posted
Posted

Found this other thread ( http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...-R-t216074.html ) when I was looking for some information, posted a reply there before I realised where it was located, might get a bit more of a response here..

Basically, I have the originals out, the new ones all rigged up ready to go back in. I was looking at the task in front of me and wondered if it was easier to do front turbo first, then the rear one coming up from under the car?

Or is the rear first, then the front the way to go, same as removal?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221996-26dett-turbo-fitting-procedure/
Share on other sites
heller44 Mentor

heller44

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the reply.

Thats the way I was going to do them, but thought there may be a slightly smarter way of going about it.

The only reason I can think to take the motor out at the same time is if you want to do oil pump, crank snout mods or anything else internal.. not really worth it otherwise for a backyarder. If I was paying someone to do it then it might be different.

It wasn't all that painful to get the originals out, even with my mitts, and I hadn't done it before.

Picked up a set of old mines' dumps in stainless. Good condition as well.

Angus Smart Grand Master

Angus Smart

Posted
Posted

Yeah nice, i actually did mine a month or so back and it wasnt to hard at all. doing it in a backyard too :thumbsup:

what helped was last time we put the turbos on some of the bolts wernt too tight ..

i only doing it with my motor out as i have a new motor to put back in soon....

Got Boost? Experienced

Got Boost?

Posted
Posted

Hey mate!

Saw you read through my thread, i got mine out ok after a lot of trial and error haha. Im in the process at the moment of putting it all back on and so far so good. If you have some questions or anything you think i could answer (or have a go at answering) just yell! For the record, i got mine out front first then rear and found it to be fairly easy and i am refitting in the same manner with rear first and front second.

  • 2 weeks later...
heller44 Mentor

heller44

Posted
  • Author
Posted

And there we go, decided to stick my head in the sand and do it totally different.

Threw the front turbo in, then bolted both manifolds on, slipped the rear turbo in from underneath, then bolted both turbos to manifolds.

After this worked from underneath and bolted the oil and water lines up, oil drains, and braces.

Seemed to be a lot nicer doing it this way than when I took the stockers out (the advised way), those manifold nuts and the oil and water lines on bits that had been sitting there for so many years was enough to give me major irrits.

All this work to fit new parts and I'll never get to show them off. looks damn near stock with the original heatshields back in place.

Just left to fit the rad back in, air filters and piping, then the new injectors. Only been in the shed for 5 1/2 months so far.. can't rush things.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy 路 Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Duncan
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Duncan 路 Posted

      Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr 路 Posted

      So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX 路 Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 馃
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan 路 Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
脳
脳
  • Create New...