Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello I have a R32 GTST The fuel pump is loud and sometimes starts vibrating the car too much. Its doing it alot now. Its not my engine or belts or anything. Could the fuel pump be dying? I took it out of another 32 that was junked last year.

Help

Edited by 335
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222037-what-are-signs-of-a-dying-fuel-pump/
Share on other sites

Sounds pretty old, Id say yes.. If the car is stock just buy a R34 GTR pump, a walbro pump (only if the car is stock) or another item Tomei, Nismo Bosch to name a few.

Oh so I will change soon. The car has a RB25 turbo, stock smic, catback exhaust and intake pod. Why do you say only if stock?

Help

i learnt the hard way, i had mine replaced.

i had no noise indicators, just lost power bit by bit untill i knew something was up. took it in for a dyno and they picked it up straight away. lost about 25 kw before i really noticed she wasnt kicking much.

your up for 400 to 500 bling for a aftermarket one, plus dyno ! Enjoy

  • 2 weeks later...

My mate has a 32, his sign that told him it was a pump was while he was driving or idling the car would just cut out! happen a few times till he finally got a new one! I think it was the time it cut out at the lights on a steep hill lucky a cop was there to help him push it! :woot:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Isn't there a fitting on the back of the balance tube? That's what the OEM boost gauge uses.
    • Getting a decent signal from all 6 throats is a challenge. I don't know for sure, but I suspect that the stock balance tube is not ideal for it. I have done it on an ALFA 4 cylinder (about 35 years ago, so don't ask for too many details). We drilled 4x holes in the manifold runners, put in some fittings and ran hoses to a decent sized (I think it was about 20mm diameter) pipe that ran the length of the inlet manifold. So, it was quite a decent volume. There is a "tuning" balance to be found between the volume of the common plenum on such a thing and the diameter of the pipes running from it to the runners. You need the volume to be large enough to damp out the sharp spikes in pressure signal you get as each runner gets sucked on by its cylinder, but not so large that it becomes too slow to respond to actual changes in MAP. And you need the hoses to be small enough to transmit the signal quickly, but not so small that they delay the signal. You might have to have more than one go at it, if there isn't any actual success based wisdom to be had here. Hopefully there is. Anyway, I would not do it on only a couple of cylinders. I would also not care about "permanently modifying a part". Just bloody drill holes and make stuff better. There is nothing sacred about any GTR unless it is a genuine museum piece that you shouldn't be modifying at all anyway.
    • He's still joining you, he's just delayed it and won't have the fulleh sick ITBs...
    • The strange thing is this is a URAS front bumper (or clone of it). The bumper actually does not sit flush with the GTT hood - You need the addon to make the hood 'long' enough to reach the bumper. I have no idea why they didn't incorporate this piece into the bumper itself.. instead of sticking it to the hood instead.
    • Another thought on this OLD topic: When you paint your bonnet lip, leave a small unpainted back lip/line along the back of the lip, where it rests on the bumper. That way, the line in the back is much more prominent than the gaps in the front/under the lip - and it breaks the hood-to-bumper connection at the "correct" place, when comparing to a GTR. I'm gonna do this with mine this week, so stay tuned for pics!
×
×
  • Create New...