Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Basically what im asking is, if i start with a stock good nick rb30 bottom end, what is the cheapest way to get it running in my 32. ie using whatever i can from the 32/rb20.

I can remove block and fit myself, do basic wiring etc.

Your thoughts greatly appreciated, obviously not chasing mega power out of it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222182-cheapest-way-into-an-rb30/
Share on other sites

and the SAFC will need to go. dont half as doo the job and get a monster rb30 conversion and only run a SAFC.

and you defiantly will need a bigger turbo. i suspect you running into alot of boost creep/spiking issues with the 3L bottom end and running such a small turbo. at least go for a gt30

25DE head, good condition bottom end (get the crank reground just for peace of mind, cost me $120), I've got forgies but I got a good deal on a block/piston/head setup.

Use everything off your 20 (25DE intake manifold ports are slightly larger but it's only a bee's dick worth).

I'm running a 25s1 turbo which I had on my 20. Becomes a major restriction at about 5800rpm where it falls over harder than it climbs. Could have lent on it a bit more but would have only caused to turbo to fall over sooner.

Making a super torquey 183rwkw with 12psi by 2200rpm.

I had it running on the standard ECU but needed to use a group-buy remap chip I had because it was hitting R&R pretty much straight away.

I was also maxxing the AFM at about 6000rpm.

So, I got myself some 550cc injectors and a z32 afm and had my ecu remapped with a bit of a tune to throw in a bunch of fuel down low so it didn't lean out when it came on boost hard.

Quite fun to drive but should be a lot more fun with the GT35R strapped on the side :blush:

As far as wiring goes, if you use an R32 RB25DE head, everything plugs straight up. We did my conversion in a weekend and I drove it home very early Monday morning on the stock ecu :D

Edited by bubba

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.efisolutions.com.au/coolant-temperature-sensor-bosch-180sx-s14-s15-r33?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwzMi_BhACEiwAX4YZUHsCQhbiDT_NC3q5wD9jrzH6Dts9eGSr19NXSDw7x9WVm1sH7G3S4hoCwaUQAvD_BwE this is the one i replaced today
    • I have replaced the larger coolant temp sensor, i do see a smaller one next to it (looks to be just 1 pin) but i assume that is just for the dash? or should i replace that aswell?
    • Check coolant temp sensor ~ symptoms fit the hard hot start/cold start OK scenario --- if sensor goes open circuit, ECU thinks engine is cold and enriches mixture ....works when engine cold, but floods them with rich mixture when hot (Hyundi MAP engines are a bit infamous for this)...
    • OK, starter changed for a spare without much trouble. Neil had kindly left space to get to the top starter motor bolt from above with a long spanner which makes the whole deal much easier, and everything else was neat and easy to get at from underneath. Once the starter was changed everything was good, unplugged the CAS and turned the motor on the starter to make sure everything was free and happy. Onto properly priming the oil and first start. I'd picked up one of these oil prime kit from Boost doc a while back and this was my first time using it.  https://boostdoc.com.au/products/engine-oil-prime-kit?_pos=1&_sid=28c628a65&_ss=r While I'd organised all the fittings to hook it up to my GTR (sump plug to -6 feed and -4 T to tap it in and retain the oil pressure gauge, neither suited on this car as the oil pressure needs to T into 1/8 NPT not -4 and the Aeropro sump has some massive drainplug not that factory whatever it is. So, waiting for a couple of fittings, then I'll prime it and do first start, hopefully next weekend. Other than that going well, there is very little stopping a final alignment, tune then shakedown day
    • Also to mention, i just tested the CAS, seems to be working fine, can hear the pulses inbetween 0 and 180 degrees, another mention aswell, when i let the car sit for about a hour today, i went to start it and it almost fired on first crank, then just completely struggled. Could it possibly be blocked injectors?, maybe allowing a little bit of fuel to seep past allowing it it almost start first crank?
×
×
  • Create New...