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Few Car Audio Questions


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Ok i just bought my new car and the previous owner must have had a field day with the electrics...

Problem List.

I have a Master Switch to give power to car and a button to start the car...

My dash lights, parkers and taillights turn on via fog light switch on dash (turns boost gauge back light off)

Normal switch on dash turn head lights on...

Head unit is a JVC-DVD Head unit (KD-DV4306) It has 2 RCA outs and im trying to run a

4 channel amp, do i need to buy a new head unit and what plugs do i plug from the HU-AMP

I get plenty of interference from car noise (revs and shit... you know what i mean) the RCA cables are

running down the centre of the car and the power cable is running down the drivers side of the car they

only meet under the back seats. Do i need to run these as far away from each other and how do i get rid

of this interference? These are all new cables which i have ran myself and the kit prob set me back $60 if

that helps at all... Is it the amp itself? If i buy a 5 channel kicker amp would i need to grab a new Headunit?

Hey thanks for any help im pretty puzzled!

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Ok i just bought my new car and the previous owner must have had a field day with the electrics...

Problem List.

I have a Master Switch to give power to car and a button to start the car...

My dash lights, parkers and taillights turn on via fog light switch on dash (turns boost gauge back light off)

Normal switch on dash turn head lights on...

Head unit is a JVC-DVD Head unit (KD-DV4306) It has 2 RCA outs and im trying to run a

4 channel amp, do i need to buy a new head unit and what plugs do i plug from the HU-AMP

I get plenty of interference from car noise (revs and shit... you know what i mean) the RCA cables are

running down the centre of the car and the power cable is running down the drivers side of the car they

only meet under the back seats. Do i need to run these as far away from each other and how do i get rid

of this interference? These are all new cables which i have ran myself and the kit prob set me back $60 if

that helps at all... Is it the amp itself? If i buy a 5 channel kicker amp would i need to grab a new Headunit?

Hey thanks for any help im pretty puzzled!

To cancel out the noise buy some ground loop isolators. although the fact that you only spent $60 on the wiring kit suggests poor quality cables so i would be looking at getting some good quality RCA's too. As for the amp if you plan on running a sub i recommend getting a headunit with sub out. (should be 3 pairs of RCA's in the back of headunit. 1pair front 1pair rear 1pair sub. if you only have 1pair it can all be run but wont sound as good and all balancing will have to be done on amp only balance on headunit would be left right.

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you puzzled me with all that stuff.. what are you chasing with all that lol..

your rca's can't run near ANY electrics.. IF by any chance you do then cross at 90deg to each other.. but yes better rcas and isolators will reduce noise..

move your rcas down the passanger side, everything else i could make sense of has been handled by nissanskyrice

Edited by .:: GimpS-R34 ::.
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For others, also check the size of the grounding cable on the Battery, I did a complete install in my R32 GTR, and the ground on that is slightly smaller than an 8 guage wire, which is completely inadequite qwith a 4guage power feed for the Amps alone, let along the rest of the car's electronics.

My sugestion would be on cars suffering from engine noise, get a custom earth kit from somewhere like FHRX Studios, and make sure all your grounding points are adequite.

B.

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just a question how do u find the headunit has it lost memory at all when u turn ur car on. i had 1 of those dvd players and it was always loosing memory even with the constant power wire straight 2 the battery.

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just a question how do u find the headunit has it lost memory at all when u turn ur car on. i had 1 of those dvd players and it was always loosing memory even with the constant power wire straight 2 the battery.

If this happens, you might have the wiring around the wrong way:

I.E Yellow is meant to be connected to Constant 12v+

Red is meant to be connected to 12v+ when Acc is turned on

Black is meant to be Constant Ground/Earth.

Some people have accidently switched the yellow and the red, and this doesn't effect the player when you test the on/off function, because the it's being fed 12 volts to the Acc to turn on, but doesn't have a constant 12v so it's off, but then when you turn the key to Acc, it feeds the constant 12v and thus power's up as normal.

Problem is, the constant 12v is what feeds power to the headunit to hold it's memory, without this, you loose memory every time you shut the car off.

B.

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If this happens, you might have the wiring around the wrong way:

I.E Yellow is meant to be connected to Constant 12v+

Red is meant to be connected to 12v+ when Acc is turned on

Black is meant to be Constant Ground/Earth.

Some people have accidently switched the yellow and the red, and this doesn't effect the player when you test the on/off function, because the it's being fed 12 volts to the Acc to turn on, but doesn't have a constant 12v so it's off, but then when you turn the key to Acc, it feeds the constant 12v and thus power's up as normal.

Problem is, the constant 12v is what feeds power to the headunit to hold it's memory, without this, you loose memory every time you shut the car off.

B.

yeah but it never done it all the time and i had it wired up correctly i had the constant 12+ running straight 2 the battery 2 bypass the imobilser and everything. it would sumtimes do it every time i turned the car on but most of the time it would hapen like the 6th time the car would b turned on. also workin at supercheap ive also had a few others come back with the same problem and the were wired in by profesionals.

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