Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

usually they destroy them when they take em off

So that means that if i import a car with gt2530, intercooler, coilovers, etc. there is a chance i could end up with a car missing a whole heap of parts and have to purchase stock items?

people talk bout taking parts off and hiding it in the car or just leave it in the car and install it back on later

That's what i meant to do.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22236-my-new-car/page/3/#findComment-555009
Share on other sites

Thanks,

Wow after driving a VL commodore 3L auto this skyline is amazing - handling, power, looks kills it in every way. Just be careful in the wet this thing will spin the rear wheels in any gear - it can be a bit scarry.

Great tourqe though u can change through the gears at 2000rpm and its fine, once you go over 2500 u can start to feel that turbo kick in and its wooshka from there on!

I'm on a high - hehe!!!

@ Richelieu... I get the impression that compliancers will take off all aftermarket gear excluding stereos and fit with standard items but will refit your mods after registration for a fee (increased compliance cost up to $2k more I've heard - which I guess could be worth it depending on mods).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22236-my-new-car/page/3/#findComment-555216
Share on other sites

Originally posted by zymotic

Joy! My car is ready to be picked up from compliancer tommorrow. Hopefully Queensland Transport will not give me any grief with rego and I should be driving it back up the M1 tommorrow.

Feelin like Big Kev.... IM EXCITED

zymotic,

Can you tell me how long compliance took for you? My Skyline just landed in AU on October 5, and is currently getting clearance from customs...My Skyline will be getting complied at the same place as yours, and i want to know how long it'll take, approximately...cant freakin' wait!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22236-my-new-car/page/3/#findComment-559799
Share on other sites

Congrats on the new line zymotic!

"I know it won't be quiet as fast as a WRX but it will certainly look better in my eyes" - maybe not yet, but a WRX is worth double what you paid for your line! A couple of mods and the only WRX you'll see, will be one in your rear vision mirror :)

Good luck!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22236-my-new-car/page/3/#findComment-560231
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Hey Man

Very Nice Car Congratulations

Please look after it & Take Care of it as Good Exampleas are Hard to find

Stereo Should be Fine & pease do not worry so much about the Timer Even if it doesnt come as long as the car is in one piece & Good Condition Dont worry about the stupid timer you can always get a New one for few houndred

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22236-my-new-car/page/3/#findComment-659982
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gday, Due to not finding much up to date info on this topic I thought I'd make a thread to get peoples latest opinions/recommendations. Background info -  I've got a S1.5 R33 GTST as a fun project car, mainly for street use and occasional drag strip, apart from all the cosmetic things I'll be doing a full rebuild of the engine with forged internals. Since it'll be getting new cams (kelford) and springs to match I thought I might as well get new lifters and valves while I'm at it, the dash says 160k KMs but the engine seems pretty tired, compression measures about 130psi across all cylinders so I'd like to freshen everything up. This is where I'm tempted to just fork out the extra and go solid lifters while it's all apart, aiming for 400-450kw atw with a flex tune. Assuming all supporting mods (oiling, fuel and all bolt ons) with a lightly ported head and turbo to match (yet to make a decision possibly gtx3582r or similar from Hypergear) I've seen the Tomei kits with just the buckets getting around, Supertech sells most things - Supertech High Performance Cam Followers | Trusted Racing Cam Followers Questions -  Has anyone found the Hydraulic lifters to limit them at this power level? Is it usually found that you can just clean the stock lifters and find they work fine?  Does going solid lifters save any headaches/issues with hydraulic lifters in the future? Any recommendations on other things that will need to be replaced, I know I'll need to get the solid profile cams but can you use the same type of valves and springs/retainers and is it recommended to change the guides and stem seals?    Summary -  Basically looking for pros/cons and wanna know if I'll actually need the extra RPMs from solid lifters or it'll just be bragging rights to say it ReVs OvEr 8000 Cheers
    • Ha ha ha, this stuff they had was installing Toshiba PLCs that were made some time in the 1990s, and they were replacing GEM80 PLCs. To let those two talk (staged upgrade along a ~1.2km long building that was split into 4 sections), was a bunch of WinXP machines running Java gateways... There was no way to put something like ProfiSafe in... Most of the HMI machines were WinXP, with Java program, with a custom button board emulating a keyboard... About the only buttons in the operator stations that went direct to the PLCs was the eStop. There was some interesting design stuff in that place...
    • Stock bypass valves are good for plenty of boost.
    • Check for fuel flow out of the outlet end of the rail. Check for spark. Try to start with aerostart (or pressure can brake cleaner or similar solvent in a car) prayed in through TB. If you have fuel and you have spark and it will fire on substitute fuel, then seriously suspect that E85 sitting for ages in your fuel system has destroyed something and put it in your injectors.
    • Nissan stock oil pressure is typically about 1 bar at 1000 rpm plus about 1 bar per thousand revs on top.
×
×
  • Create New...