Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i was wondering if anyone could help me..

awhile back i installed Xenon's into my car to replace the normal headlight globes, and

due to a smash i had, the panel beaters i took it to got s2 lights on my s1 r33, which look great.

but there is one problem, when i first installed them one of the lights where way to high and blinding

on coming traffic, which is funny, but dangerous.. so i thought i fixed it, but im still getting a flash every now and

again..

my question is how do i adjust them? there is 3 knobs i can turn, but one is for the high beams,

and the other 2 i dont know what they do and one is a real pain in the ass to get to.

so does any one know which knob i should be turning in order to lower my headlights?

thanks.

josh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222397-headlight-problem/
Share on other sites

Try adjusting the ones that are a pain in the arse to get to. They're usually the ones that adjust your headlights.

When you say you installed 'xenon's' do you mean HID lights? If you did, that'll be the reason everyone's flashing you right there. Have a search about HIDs into R33's reflectors to find out why.

Occassional flashes nowadays mean 3 things

1. You're lights are too high.

2. You're lights are too bright.

3. You're giving you the 'heads up' for nearby cops.

So yeah, could be either one dude!

for the gap.. there is none... since i smashed the front of my car.. the whole front n bonnet got replaced lol, all through insurance, total for the repair for my car was 5,000 lol

if i need bulbs ill pm you straight away .. thanks man :)

lol dont think its the coppers, coz then i get an evil stare when i drive past them lmao. i'm going

to take it to an auto electrician when i've got some spare time, see wtf i can do :D

i'll post a pic up of them tonight :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...