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It uses individual inputs for the channels. You can either sniff off factory sensors such as water temp, or add new sensors. Usually you sniff water temp, add Oil Temp, and Pressure sensors, (add / sniff air temp depending on car), add fuel pressure and boost sensors.

The unit lets you put in the calibration points, its easy Voltage versus value. I have the calibration tables for a lot of sensors and if there is one I don't have I can do the table if you send me the sensor then add it to the available list.

It does not do knock as per PFC.

It will have the Lap Timing feature in it with the new ones that are coming now. That is what I am adding over the Christmas break. The guys at STZ Auto have one of my data loggers and will also have the new EM PRO II in their race car for testing etc. On a side note they are also testing my tyre pyro unit (3 sensors for tyre temps across tyre surface) that interfaces into my logger. To use the Lap Timer a GPS signal will be required.

Some of the features I have added that I think are "nice" are the advanced oil pressure alarm that allows you to put in 4 pressure points against RPM points. That way you dont have to wait until you have a minimum oil pressure (such as 10psi) while the engine is still at 7000rpm (for example, set that point up at 60psi). The other one is the fuel pressure alarm that is linked with boost, you put in the rising regulator scale factor and the fuel pressure is tracked against the air pressure in the engine. Again getting a much more accurate alarm.

So you think racers look at knock level on a game boy or oil temp, water temp and pressures etc.

Of course they do. Not many cars out there can be driven flat knacker lap after lap and not many guys out there have a pit wall full of people looking at the live data to get on the blower and tell them to look at problems. The reason why logger shave info on them with common alarm lights it to let the pilot know when temps are getting too high from too many revs, following the car in front too closely. Diff or gearbox temps getting too high. Oil pressure dropping...it may only happen on the straights when they have a fleeting moment to look...but I am sure they are looking at data otherwise why wodl they spend all that money on the dashes

There is a serial port connection on the unit. It is used to connect to a Laptop to set up the unit, download calibration data etc. You can set all the alarms etc from menu screens as well. I usually put in the calibration tables for you if I know the car and sensors being used. The serial connection can also be used to connect to the datalogger for logging the EM PRO II information. It will now also be used to connect to a GPS for the lap timing option.

The EM PRO II unit is $499, comes with two stage shift light and warning light and alarm buzzer. Also includes looms and external buttons.

I will have to get current 2012 pricing on all the sensors etc. I can get Oil Pressure Sensor, Oil Temp Sensor, Oil Sensor Spacer Plate, Intake Temp Sensor, Water Temp Sensor (usually just sniff factory though), Fuel Pressure Sensor, Boost Sensor.

If you have an aftermarket ECU (such as my GTR runs a HALTECH) you can copy the calibration tables from it into the EM PRO II and sniff off their sensors). I have tried to make the sensor interface as flexible as possible.

I am loving the oil pressure versus RPM alarm, and also the Boost versus fuel pressure.

However, wouldn't it be better to have maybe 10 available points to tune, so you can tune very 1,000RPM/10PSI of oil pressure?

When an alarm is triggered? does the alarm automatically go off when the fault has gone or does the user have to acknowledge the alarm?

Yes I can get aftermarket sensors and the ones I supply I have the calibration tables for ready to go. They are all quality sensors, Bosch, VDO etc.

On the number of points for Oil Press vers RPM, I understand what you mean by having points every 1000rpm but in practice this would probably become troublesome. Tuning the 4 points can take a couple of tweaks as on the track the oil pressure does drop slightly as the oil gets hotter. We tuned the 4 on the dyno, then had to adjust them again at the track with fine tuning.

On Alarm Acknowledgement, when an alarm goes off the screen shows that alarm "LOW OIL PRESSURE", if more than one alarm goes off they are in the priority order you assign to them. With up to 4 on the screen.

If you have assigned the Alarm Light, Buzzer or both to an alarm it will go off. You have two choices for clearing it:

1. Set the auto clear mode, this will clear the alarm once it has gone automatically. With this mode there is a user settable minimum hold time, so you dont get an alarm flicker (such as oil surge) and then when you look at the screen nothing is there. Set the hold to 5 or 10 sec and you will always have the chance to glance at the screen and see what the alarm was.

2. Set the alarms to only clear when you press the acknowledge button. Then they will hold until you clear them.

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