Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 GTST v 180SX SR20


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 109
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

are u guys absolutely positive that 180sc will beat r33..

i had a sr20det 5spd sileighty i lost to a r33...i got an r33 now though was gonna get 200sx but thought r33 is faster, even though s14 or s13 is lighter doest our extra 2 cylinders and 500cc make up for this?? it would have to be the driver, i find it har to believe a r33 loses to s13s...come on guys dont shatter my dreams :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by sumfatchin

r33 looks like a familly car?????

Crap!!!!!

some of those series 1's do but with the right kit on them, they are an awesome looking car!!!

You can put a kit on a Commodore and it will look tuff.

They are still a nice looking car. But I just prefer cars that are sleak

Link to comment
Share on other sites

a lot of r33s look like family cars only the series 1s that are absolutely stok...series 2 loooks crazy.....and all of them look insane wit a kit even just lowered mags and tint...and the rb25det engine with exhaust sounds absolutly tough...but not as good as wrx wit zorst...sr20 doesnt sound as tuff as r33

Link to comment
Share on other sites

57OCK actually i know of ur car and it's abit brave of u to challenge a unseen car. ohwell it's all fun and game if u wanted to i'm happy to accomodate ur request, and i never said my car was STOCK.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i do think my "family car" looks better than a lot of 180 :D

i used to own a silvia, never look back. Skyline do give me more comfortable ride and room, at lease i won't feel embrass when i give a ride to somebody.

180 might be faster, but car is not all about speed else everyone are driving a done up RX2 or torana...

they are great car, but skyline suit me better:burnout:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Bro

I have a 180sx, stock body/rims, I could've spent the money on the looks (which I really would have liked to have done) but instead I spent it in performance so I can hose the whales lol.

Thats a major stir!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by hungry6

57OCK actually i know of ur car and it's abit brave of u to challenge a unseen car. ohwell it's all fun and game if u wanted to i'm happy to accomodate ur request, and i never said my car was STOCK.

RB26 with t76? no not exactly stock :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well quickest ive ever seen from close to stock 180 is 13.1. Cat back exhaust. blitz dual sbc boost controller, 14psi + slicks. If you dont believe me check the back of hpi magazine under 2400c and look at the name of anothy bilic. cars running stock comp turbo dump pipe and all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well.... yes and perhaps no. It depends on what you mean by "spool". For most of us, the point that we would describe as where the turbo is "spooling" is the point where the wheel speed gets high enough for it to start making some boost. This is coincidentally around about the point where it starts making noise - hence the "spooling" sound. If that is what you mean, then no - the wastegate should still be shut at this point. The boost will still be way below the point where it should start opening. If, on the other hand, you mean "spool" as "reach full boost", then yes. At the point where the boost has reached target, then boost control has already started. The wastegate is already open, and has been for some time. Some short time, definitely, but still, some time. If you have no boost controller - just the wastegate actuator connected to the boost source, then you have a mechanical system working as a pressure balance. There is pressure on one side of the wastegate actuator's diaphragm from the spring, and pressure on the other side coming from the boost measurement location (the "source"). This is not a digital thing. The wastegate does not stay shut until the boost pressure reaches the spring "pressure". The spring will start to compress as soon as you start to apply any pressure onto it. This can be controlled somewhat by adding pre-load into the spring, but you cannot add enough preload to make it into a digital switch behaviour. The wastegate will crack open and start to leak exhaust out (and therefore not though the turbine) well before you reach the target boost pressure. Electronic (and some mechanical/pneumatic) boost controllers will act to prevent the boost source applying pressure to the actuator until just before you reach target boost, thus preventing the wastegate from creeping open. And some boost controllers will apply boost pressure on the spring side to further push it shut. And this can be be necessary because the exhaust pressure in the manifold also pushes on the wastegate valve and tries to open it and you cab get it leaking even without it being connected to the boost source.
    • A stand alone boost controller will not give you the control you need, unlike a modern ECU. Your boost will always naturally target the wastegate's opening pressure first, your controller then will allow you to add more boost as required.
    • I recently discovered that I could not remove the outer bolt on one of my rear UCAs. Looked like it was seized to the crush tube. It wasn't all that long since I had last had that arm out (I dunno exactly, but certainly <2 yrs), so I was a bit surprised. I thought I had stock bushes in the rear knuckles, so I ordered some new PU bushes and resigned myself to having to do some dismantlery....and some butchery. It was clear that the seized bush was going to need to have the bolt cut out of it and then possibly some more brutality after that. Upon getting the 3x arms on each side disconnected from the knuckles (with the exception of the seized one, of course), I discovered that I had in fact put PU bushes into the knuckles when I did the subframe conversion about 12-13 years ago. So, I say "Oh, good, I might not have to swap any of these others out". We set to work butchering the bolt out of the seized arm. Stainless blade in a big-arse Milwaukee recipro made short work of it, and also damaged the arm, which added a welding and grinding and painting step to the whole exercise. During the butchery it became clear that the bolt was not just seized but bent. Head scratching ensued, as it is hard to understand how that bolt could get bent. I did suffer a broken (stock) toe control arm on that side a few months ago, and drove some miles with some significant rear wheel self steer and lack of control, which probably was the cause. But it's still hard to understand how it would bend that bolt, rather than just bend the arm. But here's the start of the real discoveries. The crush tube was rusty as all shit. I mean seriously rusty. A little on the inside, contributing to the tube seizing to the bolt (along with the bend). But the outside had at least 2-3mm of compressed flaky iron oxide jammed in between the parent metal and the PU bush. This one was brutalised and still took some effort to get the PU off the crush tube. So I thought I'd inspect the others more closely. The one on the tension rod adjacent the bent one was first. I had to use a 2-jaw puller to get the crush tube out, and it took some effort. It came out looking like the first one. All 6 of them were the same, except for one that looked not too bad. Had some corrosion on it, but was mostly OK. There was also a significant amount of corrosion on the inner surfaces of the knuckles. They took some convincing with pointy tools to let go their grip on the inside of the holes they were in. There was no sign of the original (SuperPro) lube anywhere. I and my bro-in-law have never seen any crush tube end up looking like this. It was seriously like the car has spent time putting boats into the water at the boat ramp. So, it seems like the PU might have been bonded to the steel on both sides, which would have to make them work more like stock rubber bushes (where arm deflection results in twist inside the rubber). Despite this, I have never had cause to believe that they were so tightly bound up. The suspension moved up and down much as you'd expect. The car never made any noises in those bushes that would have led me to believe there was a problem. Maybe the rusty interfaces actually were "sliding". Anyway, lesson learnt. Even quiet, non-troublesome PU bushes should be inspected every now and then!
    • the boost controller allows you to adjust the opening of the wastegate (which only has one preset spring) I'm going to see how it acts on it
    • I studied the principle of wastegate to begin with. so if I understood correctly. the moment when the turbo "spool" is where the boost control begins. When the target level of "psi" is reached the wastegate opens to regulate the exhaust pressure passing through the turbo and thus control its speed and the rate of boost
×
×
  • Create New...