Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, I am as of recently the proud owner of a 97 r33 gts-t.

I seem to have discovered a bit of a problem today when driving, my speedo wouldn't go above 0 km/h until a few minutes into the drive.

I normally warm up the car all the time first, and I first noticed it when I started driving it cold. I'm not sure if it starts working when the car warms up a bit or if it works when I reach a certain speed, either way it doesn't last too long. Obviously this is pretty worrying for me, any help on this matter is greatly appreciated.

Thank you

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222585-speedo-doesnt-work-sometimes/
Share on other sites

Have you got a custom cluster background?

When i took my cluster needles off to change the background I accidently put a needle on too much and was catching until the force was enough to pull it off.. could be something to look into

Do R33's use an electronic speedo sensor? It'll either be that or the speedo head itself. Assuming it is an electronic speedo drive it will work as a pulse generator which you can test by checking its A/C voltage while you spin it or check for continuity (resistance check). If all is good there then test for the same at the other end of the wiring up at the speedo head. If you have an acceptable A/C voltage there too then it has to be the speedo head.

Deren

just to add, mine works on the race track without issue, and up old pac ..

also replaced the whole cluster and same issue.

r33 is electronic - i have had the red gear checked on the speed sensor and it looks fine to my mechanic - continuity check would be great if you could get a wiring diagram of the dash console for 33's

  • 4 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I had this happen to my old car (lancer shhh :P ) took the gauge cluster out of the dash and had a really close look at all the wires on the PCB.

i found a tiny little hair line crack in one of the runs. so pretty much as the temps changed in the car the gap would expand causing the Speedo to cut out.

i souldered a small strip of bare wire across the gap and it fixed the problem. Could be the same problem here.

Edited by Rucker34
have you guys checked the wiring of the speed sensor on the ecu? maybe you have like an RSM or something similar hooked up and some how that wire is grounding itself to the chasis?

its possible, i have thought of this, however i believe the ECU gets the signal after the dash does. will rip out the ECU one day and check them all anyway :)

My speedo has been working ok but my odometer has been on and off for the last month or so.

Pulled the dash apart and gained access to the back of the cluster. Ends up that I was getting

a few dry solder joints. Expected I suppose being 12 years old now. Just added a bit of fresh

solder to each of the tracks on the back, took all of 20 mins work and now everything is back to

normal :) .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...