Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey peeps,i am going to put my splitfires in tomorrow and would like to change the plugs at same time,just wondering if someone can tell me a part number and best type for s1 stag,if someone posts a part number please tell me what brand/type (iridium) etc,thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222708-spark-plugs/
Share on other sites

Gotta say it.......USE THE SEARCH BUTTON. There are a million threads about this and they are listed in the "Stagea Parts Thread"

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...ist-t61606.html

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sp...;hl=spark+plugs

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sp...gs-t104405.html

There that took me a couple of mins to find these previous threads amongst about 100 others.

Trust me it will save you a good flamming :thumbsup:

And these would go for any RB25DET.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222708-spark-plugs/#findComment-3925098
Share on other sites

ok i have been through the links and the parts list,the splitfire instructions i got say it is essential to change plugs as well to one colder heat range in conjuction to other mods(pod,exhaust,chips etc) and must be a resistor type, of the spark plug thread,which one would be suitable for the splitfires...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222708-spark-plugs/#findComment-3925253
Share on other sites

hey dude

I strongly recommend NGK BCPR6E

They are a 0.8mm pregapped, copper, v-groove plug. They are fine up to slightly over 300rwkw odd

only $3.00 each, change from a $20.

will last as long as your tyres, get good spark being copper and .8mm

I use these, for 2 yrs I used stock coil packs that had hi-temp industrial silicone sealant all around them to help stop wasted spark, but changed to my splitifres i got for chrissy recently. didnt change plugs as the current bcpr6e set is only 5000 thou old.

feels real nice with these $19 plugs and splitfire coilpacks, idles very well, pulls well too with no breakdown

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222708-spark-plugs/#findComment-3925760
Share on other sites

hey dude

I strongly recommend NGK BCPR6E

They are a 0.8mm pregapped, copper, v-groove plug. They are fine up to slightly over 300rwkw odd

only $3.00 each, change from a $20.

will last as long as your tyres, get good spark being copper and .8mm

I use these, for 2 yrs I used stock coil packs that had hi-temp industrial silicone sealant all around them to help stop wasted spark, but changed to my splitifres i got for chrissy recently. didnt change plugs as the current bcpr6e set is only 5000 thou old.

feels real nice with these $19 plugs and splitfire coilpacks, idles very well, pulls well too with no breakdown

cheers mate that is the exact answer i was looking for,luckily i couldnt make it to coventrys to pick up the $135 set of platinum!! so cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222708-spark-plugs/#findComment-3926112
Share on other sites

i have had no luck finding plugs,the car is in the garage with everything off but the only plugs i could find were a $130 set of platinum...i have been asking around and trying to get the bcpr6e with one colder heat range but if TANGLES has had no problems then i will stick with the 6's.has anyone got splitifres?what plugs were you using? heat range?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222708-spark-plugs/#findComment-3936158
Share on other sites

i have had no luck finding plugs,the car is in the garage with everything off but the only plugs i could find were a $130 set of platinum...i have been asking around and trying to get the bcpr6e with one colder heat range but if TANGLES has had no problems then i will stick with the 6's.has anyone got splitifres?what plugs were you using? heat range?

Hi

I have splitfires and i am using laser platinum plugs (PFR5G-11) gaped at .8 with no problum although i have been toled i should be using PFR6G-11

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222708-spark-plugs/#findComment-3936294
Share on other sites

I get mine from motor traders here in SA

in fact I have a new set of 6 on my shelf here atm.

its not so much the "6" heat range, but the copper and .8mm gap

7 heat range would suffice for sure

with splitfires either or, just make sure 0.8mm gap, copper is as good as anything else.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222708-spark-plugs/#findComment-3936310
Share on other sites

Hi

I have splitfires and i am using laser platinum plugs (PFR5G-11) gaped at .8 with no problum although i have been toled i should be using PFR6G-11

are they a platinum? if so the guy who i spoke to yesterday who owns several drag/drift cars told me to stay away from platinum in turbo cars,apparently due to the tip being different they cant handle boost and play up very easily. or would the platinum version be a pfr6g-11OE??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222708-spark-plugs/#findComment-3936346
Share on other sites

The plugs in question (PFR5G-11)have don five sesions (100 lapes aprox at 12psi) at qld raceway and four dino sesions as well as doing the normal daily drive. I have just now replaced them after about 70.000 k only because my fuel pump gave up the gost and i thort it a good idear to replace them. Even though the engine had run lean for a short time the plugs were stil in good shape.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222708-spark-plugs/#findComment-3936407
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • my catch can is pretty easy to empty but it overflows due to the blowby/crank case pressure etc. max I have drained is ~600ml even with a ~2.3L capacity. So it is not just about having to drain it out its the mess it makes down the firewall and under the car and rear passenger tyre from the overflow oil being blasted by screamer + air in general. Ending up on the ground cleaning the oil up and having oil on your arms when everyone else can chill and watch the other sessions gets old fast
    • Yeah - the secret learned a long time ago is that the RB likes to belch oil out the covers, and/or starve the pump because it drowns the head in oil, because the upflow of crankcase gases from piston blowby comes up through the oil drain holes in the block and prevents the oil from flowing back down. The external vents from sump are about creating an alternative path/much more XS area for gas flow to decrease the gas velocity up through the oil drains and allow the oil to get back down. So, it's not about pressure at all. It is about flows - gas up and oil down - or when it's not working, gas up and oil not going where it is supposed to after it arrives at the top, except out through the cam cover vents. And regardless of whether the catch can is vented to air or vented to the turbo inlet, it must still be vented because a sealed system would blow out the crank seals, or something equally bad.
    • I just used a can that's easy to empty after every session and pour it back into the fill hole. Takes about 40 seconds when you have 40 minutes between runs :p I don't see how changing any catch can stuff will reduce pressure if the system is sealed. And if it's vented - Does it matter where it's vented with regards to overall pressure?
    • Welp, too late already committed to the cam cover breathers to be welded on. I did think about adding a catch can in line with the drivers side sump breather as a phase 2 along with a drain to the sump on the original catch can but with an inline ball valve so I can have it closed if needed.    Likely a single breather would have been enough but I think I’m overcompensating to hopefully not have to empty my catch can and clean up oil over flow every session.    out of curiosity has anyone actually measured crank case pressure before and after various mods? I’m considering adding a sensor for science 
    • Is it a dog or synchro box? I guess either way, if it is new and crunching in one gear only, it has to come out and go back to the shop to check/measure as there is either an assembly or manufacturing issue
×
×
  • Create New...