Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i've got a torque split guage, it doesn't do much and i think it would only be useful if your going up gravel or snow for a bit and were interested to know how much grip the back doesn't have

sometimes it moves when you accelerate hard in the wet but as soon as you get grip it drops down again

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i got a gts-4 R32... i really wanted to do the same thing ( buying a r32gtr gauge cluster) and puting it in as i already have the front torque split insted of boost in my normal cluster.... now the problem is the gauge pigtail has noware to plug into ? whats the proper way of doing this? i recon the best thing to do would be use the face of the cluster and put in some great gauges :rant: i think its the only way unless u wanna spend money on gtr looms n senders... sounds like the person to do this will create an abomination of a car...

george. :rant:

i agree . the gauge is pretty useless . the most it was ever on was when i put the space saver on . till i got f**ked off with it and unpluged the wire under the dash so i could drive home without 10% torque to the front for no reason .

its also stupid in the was that 0-10% takes up half of its sweep the 20-50% has to share the other half . was kinda interesting when driving up a road that had patches of snow on it so it was on off on off heaps . in the 18 months ive owned it i could count the number of times its moved on one hand .

i agree . the gauge is pretty useless . the most it was ever on was when i put the space saver on . till i got f**ked off with it and unpluged the wire under the dash so i could drive home without 10% torque to the front for no reason .

its also stupid in the was that 0-10% takes up half of its sweep the 20-50% has to share the other half . was kinda interesting when driving up a road that had patches of snow on it so it was on off on off heaps . in the 18 months ive owned it i could count the number of times its moved on one hand .

its not % its kg-m = 10 times more than 1 N-m (1kg = 9.81N)

so 10 kgm = ~100Nm = 1/3 of all your torque

its a % . thats why full is 50 % is full . 50% front and 50% rear eg locked . read on up on atessa .

so if the gauge goes to 50 is it sending 500 nm to the front wheels ? atessa doesnt work on torque so why would the gauge?

f**ked if i know why it has kg-m on the gauge

Edited by lachlanw
here is a picture of the back of my rs four s factory gauges . it has boost front torque and volts . the lime green with red stripe is "ets +" . 2nd picture is of the attesa ecu where the same coloured wire goes into it .

3rd picture is the factory oil temp sender i was talking about earlier

Thanks for those awesome pics :) . Your crazy pulling it apart like that, but greatly appreciated.

Yeah the R33 GTR cluster I have looks the same as that (from the rear anyway).

What colour is the other ETS wire? If you could tell me the colours for each of those 8 wires that would be great (save me from metering them out).

Yeah torque split gauge doesn't sound to interesting, but I have it now so might as well try to get it working.

lachlanw I like how your car came with a cluster. I think its a bit stupid turbo cars coming without a boost gauge.

I was starting to think i'll never get this sorted.

Just for curiosity does your Attessa connector look like this:

Stagea_RS4_S2_Attessa.jpg

heres a pic of my attesa plug/socket . also better pictures of the "ets+" wire lime green with red stripe . 2nd in on the bottom row from the 4 big fat red blue yellow black . it looks quite light coloured on the back of the gauge photo but its lime green like photo of ecu harness

"ets+" wire also has silver "Trace"? (dots of silver paint along it )

post-50817-1262988575_thumb.jpg

post-50817-1262988600_thumb.jpg

post-50817-1262988625_thumb.jpg

Edited by lachlanw

rs four s factory centre gauge wiring colours

name ------ primary colour------- stripe colour ------- trace

ill-------------- black ---------------2x red ----------------

ill +------------- red -------------- 2x black -------- silver dot

gnd ----------- black ------------ red ---------------silver dot

ets +-------- lime green ---------- red ------------- silver dot

ets----------- black -------------------------------------------

ign---------- purple------------- 2x white-------------------

boost+------ white-------------- 2x green---------------------

back of gauges also has "OTM" but it doesnt have a screw in it and no wire for it . oil temp maybe ? might have to look into swapping useless volt gauge for an oil temp .........

Edited by lachlanw

Thanks mate your a legend.

Yeah the R33 GTR cluster I have has a oil temp meter instead of the volt meter. I got my cluster on Ebay for $99.

I wonder if the GTR torque split gauge is different to stagea. Sounds like ETS wire on the Stagea goes to ground being black. The GTR has kg-m, I thought you said your one has percentage.

I will give it a go anyway once I get the brakes sorted.

my one says kg-m on it too but attesa doesnt work on torque or any torque meters or knowing how much torque the engine makes does it ? it works on vectoring the available torque between the front and back wheels up to 50% front . think about it ?

my one says kg-m on it too but attesa doesnt work on torque or any torque meters or knowing how much torque the engine makes does it ? it works on vectoring the available torque between the front and back wheels up to 50% front . think about it ?

Sounds good to me, means i don't need to find any more wires :(

  • 4 months later...

I've pretty much given up on installing these gauges. :P

I thought I had oil temp and boost wired up right but nothing worked. I also tried some other likely outputs from the ecu but no luck.

Probably would have been a good idea to test the gauges first.

i just bought the 3 din gauge for my S2 stagea from action japan, the gauge is from stagea too, but when i pull out all dash or radio and i couldn't find any wire plug for the gauge set, i thought all the stagea has the build in plug wire for gauge, untill i saw this topic here...well i guess i will put my gauge for sale.

its not a %, but it's not actually measuring torque either. best to think of it as an indication of how much torque it would be trying to send to the front in an umodified factory setup.

theres a lot of variables in that statement . could you re word it please ?

or are you trying to say it is what the out put of the attesa computer thinks it should/is sending to the front?

i just bought the 3 din gauge for my S2 stagea from action japan, the gauge is from stagea too, but when i pull out all dash or radio and i couldn't find any wire plug for the gauge set, i thought all the stagea has the build in plug wire for gauge, untill i saw this topic here...well i guess i will put my gauge for sale.

My recommendation is sell the cluster.

I spent about 3-4days on it.

I used the R34 GTT ECU connector wiring diagram (which looks the same as a S2 ECU) connected all the likely outputs.

And managed to get all of nothing working. very frustrating.

I might have another go at it, later on.

If there is a next time I will probably workout what signals each gauge requires, and test each gauge. Then meter the ECU and ensure the correct outputs are there.

But if someone else works it out that would be cool.

  • 3 months later...

I've been fitting GTR triple gauges to my series 2. The oil temp guage was easy,I just run new wiring in, and there are already spare ignition and illumination wires behind the centre dash.

I've found the multi plug where the ETS+ wire comes from the rear of the vehicle under the passenger kick panel and run the wiring in, but with the ETS wire connected to ground the guage needle just goes to full deflection and without anything connected to ETS the guage doesn't work.

I suspect that the black ETS wire isn't just a ground, but returns to the Atessa ECU, but I can't find any details.

The only Atessa wiring diagram I can find is the R32 GTR Atessa wiring diagram shows pins 45 and 44 used for the front torque meter and I haven't been able to work out if this can be related to our Atessa ECU.

Any ideas ?

Update. A friend of mine has checked his R34 wiring diagram and found that ETS+ is pin 33 and ETS is pin 44 on the Attessa ECU. I have found a drawing done by another friend on the GTROC site, but I'm not entirely sure it's accurate. It certainly doesn't tie in with the location I've used for the green/red wire already mentioned. Now I need to find a definitive pin reference drawing and confirm that an R34 Attessa ECU is the same as a Stag one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had absolutely no symptoms whatsoever that anything was wrong.... I'm very happy it was all spotto'd and re-bled and re-torqued and aligned though. Will be picking it up tomorrow and undoubtedly be like "Oh, that clunk is gone" "Oh, the car really wants to drive straight" "Oh, that pedal feels better" "Oh, it feels like I've gained 25hp" "Oh, the handbrake works now" It should have been a sign that the new Project Mu shoes had 3mm of pad depth on them out of the box, and the OEM ones from 25 years ago that we took out also had 3mm of pad depth, implying the issue was not, and never was the shoes, but we put that down to it not being adjusted correctly. It wasn't, but it wasn't even adjustable at all given one side was boned and the T Junction of the cables was on a 45 degree angle, the non-working side being the one on the massive angle. Obviously when I had adjusted it and reset it and re-tensioned it I had either got it stuck or something along those lines. Oh well. Live and learn and absolutely could have been catastrophically worse so I'm rationalizing it as a win, kinda. I also got the chance to measure the distance between rear rim and the suspension arm/shocks and found a 30mm rubber block only just doesn't fit there. Which is great to know before ordering wheels, when I assumed 30mm was easy. The man with the Porsche adapters has rims that use 23.9mm of that space, so it's safe to assume I have between 23.9 and 29.9mm of space there to play with on the inside. The wheels looked pretty stupidly pokey with the 20mm spacers on the rear, only for me to find that the studs come out another 12mm and the wheel doesn't actually sit flush with the hub because you're supposed to cut your original studs. The wheels do have cutouts that kinda accomodate it, but not fully. So my 20mm spacer was anywhere between 25mm and 35mm. ~25mm and send it will determine on where the wheels sit with the spacers on. When I put the pads in for the track day I will mess around with spacers (with wheels that do not clear studs properly when mounted to spacers) and do more math, for the last time, for the 7th time.
    • Lucky pick up Best to find these things before something horrible happened to the yoke flange thingies I would hate to think what would happen if it dropped the tailshaft  Hopefully the holes are not flogged out in the yokes and it was just the bolts that got munted  As for the hand brake.....ouch, look like the disc got rather hot, and I assume smokey, I recall when I had a front caliper seize on the Commodore, there was lots of smoke and the disc was glowing cherry red when I was able to eventually stop and have a look, and stopping a big heavy car, going down a big hill with some rather high RPM down shifts and some hand brake action is something that makes you think hard about life
    • One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that one side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
    • Very interesting, im not sure how all those complications fit in to running a haltech instead of a stock ecu but I'm starting to think I'm a bit out of my league.
    • I just put 2 and 2 together. This is a Neo converted R32. The Neo ECU (in concert with the R34's AC controller) runs the AC quite differently to how the R32 ECU and AC controller do it. If you just drop it all in, it won't work. There is some tricky wiring required, including changing to the pressure switch that the Neo controllers want to see. I don't know what it is, because mine was done by a guru. It was a year or so after I did that transplant before he worked out what needed to be done.
×
×
  • Create New...