Din 3 Gauge Set

[Bronx]

front torque is calculated in kg-m, it calculates it, s2 turbo has what, 334nm of torque? so when it sends 50% of it to the front, like atessa does, 50% of 334nm is 167nm, so your gauge would go to about 10-20kg-m. makes sense???

atleast thats how the comp SHOULD convert it. no 100% sure though. i think max i have ever hit was 20kg-m, on gravel.

seems like a decent explanation?

[lachlanw]

lol . fail

please tell us how it calculates it engine torque

its not a torque converter . or an electric transfer . it is a wet clutch that slips a certian amount . unless your on snow or ice or wet grass it applies full pressure and locks it

[lachlanw]

has anyone tried appling positive power to ets+ and used the wire from attesa computer to the "ets" then itd bel like all the other nissan shit which has constant+ power and - is switched from ecus?

[pipster11]

lol . fail

please tell us how it calculates it engine torque

its not a torque converter . or an electric transfer . it is a wet clutch that slips a certian amount . unless your on snow or ice or wet grass it applies full pressure and locks it

i doesn't calculate the torque going to the front wheels

it probably calculates what % of power is going there, and its preconfigured for a stock motor assuming stock torque

[Bronx]

^ what he said, ecu is pre configured, and it knows stock torque is ..... much and it will calculate how much of this % in torque is sent there. but this is the only logical assumption from my view, since none of us know the 100% pinpoint, i dont see how its a fail.

i doubt the guage would show percentage.. since it clearly shows kg-m, unless thats nissans way of saying %. i think nissan had enough sense to put a "%" symbol on the dial if it was % right???

[Duncan]

it is definately an "expected" amount for a standard car.

[DeanR33]

has anyone tried appling positive power to ets+ and used the wire from attesa computer to the "ets" then itd bel like all the other nissan shit which has constant+ power and - is switched from ecus?

I've been away at the Japanese auto extravaganza meet the last couple of days, so I haven't finished this off yet. I'll definately post my findings soon and hopefully be able to let you all know how to wire up the torque gauge. What I will say is that it already has seperate feeds for ignition 12v supply and ground on the PCB, so it's just a case of ensuring that the ETS and ETS+ wires are correct

[DeanR33]

Ok, here's what I have so far.

There is no Lime green wire in pin 33 in my ECU, it's orange / blue with a silver dot. This wire comes up to the multi plug at the front behind the engine ecu.

Pin 44 should be the ETS wire as per the R34GTR shop manual diagram. There was no wire in my Atessa ecu multi plug for this, so I fitted one.

I wired up the gauge with the ETS+ going to the orange / blue wire which is in the same pin as the lime green one already mentioned previously and the ETS wire to pin 44 as above.

When you turn on the igniton, you get 6v for a split second, then 0 volts on the ETS+ wire, but as soon as you start the engine, you get battery volts which then means the torque gauge goes to full deflection.

Now here's the strange bit. When I press the four wheel drive button (the one for equal torque split) next to my steering wheel, the ETS+ volts drops to 0 and the guage does the same.

My initial thoughts are that the Atessa ECU I have in my Stagea is configured differently to the RS4S versions that have the torque gauge from the factory and that pin 33 (ETS+) is used for a warning light, possibly even the four wheel drive one that comes on when you press the button for equal torque split.

I'm not done yet, I like a challange, but it's not looking good for getting the torque gauge working.

BTW, do RS4S Stageas have that equal torque split button next to the steering column ?

[DeanR33]

So it's beaten me for now. I tried cutting the orange/blue wire and using my meter on the end that goes back to the ecu and the extra ETS wire that I had added and despite gunning it on a gravel car park, I didn't get any voltage output. I tried a normal chassis ground too.

This is pretty much what I expected since I had found battery voltage on this wire and I know that the Torque gauge moves to full deflection at around 3.5v.

The other end of the orange blue wire that goes into the car loom still had battery voltage on it too and the button for four wheel drive torque split was inoperative with the wire cut.

So it would almost certainly be the case that on my car at least, that the Atessa ECU is configured differently to an RS4S or Skyline GTR ECU using a battery input on the wire that uses an output on the RS4S and GTR.

I've looked at other outputs from the ECU, but there is nothing that could be used. Possibly the only way to get the torque gauge working is to use a GTR ECU, but then I would lose the ability to lock the system in four wheel drive and since I get snow around here in winter I don't want to lose that option.

At least I have a working oil temp guage and I could swap out the torque gauge for a voltmeter.

[lachlanw]

all series 2 doesnt have the "4x4 lock" button(what ever the truck it is called ) doesnt need it tho . ive hd mine in snow and sand and dumping the clutch it doesnt get stuck .

drove on to some fine dry sand . figured i wasnt going to go any further . stopped and did what ever i was doin . got in car and tried reversing out . being nice made it stall . gave it the jandle in reverse the rear wheels spin like half a turn then fronts locked and it went backwards piece a piss .

[pipster11]

yeah but only the autos have a button that locks the power to 50/50

think its called sycro or something

you'll probably want something that outputs about 0.0v at idle and only goes up if the rears start moving faster than the fronts (get the car up on 4 jack stands and you should see it change

[DeanR33]

yeah but only the autos have a button that locks the power to 50/50

think its called sycro or something

you'll probably want something that outputs about 0.0v at idle and only goes up if the rears start moving faster than the fronts (get the car up on 4 jack stands and you should see it change

That's the thing, I've had a meter on the 2 wires from the ATESSA ecu and I know I had power to the front wheels , but I didn't get any voltage output so I'm fairly certain that the ECU is configured differently to a manual RS4S without the lock 50/50 button.

If you are familiar with air core gauges like the type used as the torque meter, you will know that there are 2 coils inside it and the shaft for the needle is moved by creating differing voltages in the coils that cause a magnetic vector that moves the needle. The coils are different and one is designed to accept 12v, whilst the other requires approx 3.5 v to move the needle to full deflection. What this means is that when the Attessa ecu is trying to send power to the front, there should be a voltage of up to 3.5v on the pin33 and 44 wires when this is happening and 0.6v under normal conditions.

Sorry for the poor pics, but I don't know any other way to grab single pdf pages.

[QLDR31]

Sorry for the poor pics, but I don't know any other way to grab single pdf pages.

I use CutePDF its a free program it sets up as a printer. So you just go and print the page and select CutePDF as the printer and it creates a PDF.

Good to see you have a crack at this.

I'll probably have another go at setting mine up when I have time. At the moment I have the cluster installed with nothing working no lights or anything. I do have cables installed to ECU and atessa ECU but not connected at the moment. I think my engine has a sender that isn't connected maybe that's half the problem.

DeanR33 Could you put in more info on connecting oil pressure gauge?

Maybe voltage ranges of gauges would be handy so I can check they are ok ?

[Darq]

Sorry to bring up an old topic but has anyone cracked this yet

Cheers

Rob

[rblover]

Sorry to bring up an old topic but has anyone cracked this yet ?

[Greanmachine UK]

Hopefully I can shed some light on this

I believe the problem is that the s1 stagea ecu does not have the capability of producing a torque gauge output.

A friend of mine makes the skylab TSC and had just produced an updated version called fusion.

It has a much faster G sensors and allows adjustment to both the front/rear split and the lateral sensor readings .

We recently looked into fitting this to my series one stagea .which meant looking at the stagea and GTr wiring diagrams

After some thought we concluded that the unit would not work unless a GTR ecu was fitted The ecu plugs are the same although the colours and spacing of the wires are different which is why there is no output for the torque gauge. I imagine that s2 stageas should be as 34GTT.

As for fitting the fusion unit here was an amount of rewiring but nothing serious

The unit has been fitted and it all works including the adjustable lateral sensor system.and has definitely improved the handling ,

Im not sure what improvement there would be to a standard(ish) stagea as mine is far from standard

The suspension set up is

Nismo S Tune suspension , Whiteline arbs , GTR LSD , Whiteline subframe and diff bushes . Polybushed GTR hubs and lower arms All other arms are adjustable and are polybushed. Custom rear strut brace , Tyres 245 40 18 toyo 888s .