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guys, i noticed you buy adjustable actuators and boost controllers, but here is a $1 solution how to manage your boost up to what your engine can handle:

the point is to give your actuator and stock solenoid false data (false boost pressure) . f.i. you want to have boost 1.0, but stock actuator will open it's valve at 0.6 - 0.7... so in stock - 1.0 will never be reached. actuator - is a mechanical valve.

so, what we do is - unplug the little tube that goes from the main tube from intercooler to your engine. that tube is short and located near the air filter box. there will also be the T look iron tube that goes to solenoid and actuator. so, unplug that little tube and see inside - there you will see a small JET. this jet is configured for 0.6-0.7 bar boost. what you need to do is to find smaller jet and replace the old one. that way less air will go through this tube to actuator and solenoid and actuator will think that the boost is still low and will not open it's valve. but actual boost will be higher. you can check it with your boost meter.

this is the way how ALL boost controllers work - they just cheat the valves. but not with jets, they just through the air into the atmoshpere (decreasing the boost at actuator)

i was going to buy HKS actuator that will handle 0.8-0.9 for about $120 US, but after little thinking decided not to buy it - because to my mind there is just a stronger spring that opens the valve a bit later.. that's it..

btw, i still bought AVCR :P becuase it can set boost by RPMs and i don't plan to drive all day on over boost and don't want to go and change jets all the time :(

but it is still a good solution for people who just start and want to try what increased boost is.

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Vovan, I tried a similar thing a while back by substituting the stock T-piece for a brass one of the same size. Just progressively crimp the "|" of the "T" down with pliers, if you go too far just squeeze it back open a bit. Works OK and is interesting to do for an experiment.

Actually, upon reflection, it was with a piece of tube (bypassing the flutter valve).

In your scenario the ECU will still command the flutter valve open as system logic dictates. I guess it's just the smaller hole limits the pressure to the wastegate actuator.

Time for another experiment....:P

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