Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

guys, i noticed you buy adjustable actuators and boost controllers, but here is a $1 solution how to manage your boost up to what your engine can handle:

the point is to give your actuator and stock solenoid false data (false boost pressure) . f.i. you want to have boost 1.0, but stock actuator will open it's valve at 0.6 - 0.7... so in stock - 1.0 will never be reached. actuator - is a mechanical valve.

so, what we do is - unplug the little tube that goes from the main tube from intercooler to your engine. that tube is short and located near the air filter box. there will also be the T look iron tube that goes to solenoid and actuator. so, unplug that little tube and see inside - there you will see a small JET. this jet is configured for 0.6-0.7 bar boost. what you need to do is to find smaller jet and replace the old one. that way less air will go through this tube to actuator and solenoid and actuator will think that the boost is still low and will not open it's valve. but actual boost will be higher. you can check it with your boost meter.

this is the way how ALL boost controllers work - they just cheat the valves. but not with jets, they just through the air into the atmoshpere (decreasing the boost at actuator)

i was going to buy HKS actuator that will handle 0.8-0.9 for about $120 US, but after little thinking decided not to buy it - because to my mind there is just a stronger spring that opens the valve a bit later.. that's it..

btw, i still bought AVCR :P becuase it can set boost by RPMs and i don't plan to drive all day on over boost and don't want to go and change jets all the time :(

but it is still a good solution for people who just start and want to try what increased boost is.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22275-1-boost-controller/
Share on other sites

Vovan, I tried a similar thing a while back by substituting the stock T-piece for a brass one of the same size. Just progressively crimp the "|" of the "T" down with pliers, if you go too far just squeeze it back open a bit. Works OK and is interesting to do for an experiment.

Actually, upon reflection, it was with a piece of tube (bypassing the flutter valve).

In your scenario the ECU will still command the flutter valve open as system logic dictates. I guess it's just the smaller hole limits the pressure to the wastegate actuator.

Time for another experiment....:P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That ring thing is interesting how it's holding everything together 
    • Hey guys. I have a 400R on its way to Australia from Japan currently and have a few questions I’m hoping others may be able to help with.   Wondering if anyone here has had any luck getting the Sat nav unit to work in Australia!? Assuming the Stereo is as simple as a band expanded and tv won’t work?  Seeing as they’re based off a Q50 which is Aus delivered is there any way to link that system to the nav? Nav modules and head unit are different part numbers and appear slightly different at the rear with plug ins etc. can I put my xtrail sd card into the rv37 and will that convert the maps or update to Australian? Has anyone got any advice here?     also has anyone fitted the factory remote start and Security system once it’s landed in Australia? I put an enquirey to Nissan Japan in via a third party, and they suggested it needs a Nissan Japan dealers device to setup and couldn’t guarantee if one here could do it or not. They can supply and I can physically fit it but to setup I would need a dealers device. Any information here would be appreciated also. I’ve seen one here with it fitted already prior to leaving Japan at a dealer/inporter, so clearly passes compliance and works when fitted Japan and doesn’t need changing here.      also, does the tyre inflation sensors work here? Does anything change with them when the vehicle arrives? Where are they actually situated? I’ve read they have batteries and they need to changing at times and seems like resetting involves the nav system?    any help here would be appreciated and any other aust specific information to help would be great. Looking forward to see what the current generation skyline is like and eager to see how many of the gadgets can be utilised here.  Thanks in advance 
    • Do need to take it with a pinch of salt. One of the adapter failures, they clearly had setup issues with the flywheel.  One of the slipping ones I spoke to and it was pretty clear the throwout was riding, rather than fix, just swapped to a new clutch.    These clutches are being put in anything from 5k offroad 4x4 beaters, GR yaris, 500hp commodores to 1200hp barra monsters. Bound to be some issues in some of them when they are not a simple bolt in affair due to the changes in height.    There is a lot going on in this picture and unless I did the job myself no way to tell what really happened. 
    • I did this mod in 2019  You just have to modify the top bracket of the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU so it sits more upright and closer to the back seat and run a good quality positive battery lead from the engine bay, the negative lead i just bolted down to the body in the boot.
    • Damn... Not the feedback I want to hear.
×
×
  • Create New...