Oil And Water Lines

[Alf]

What do you guys recommend for oil and water lines for a 25/30 with a GT35R?

The turbo is on a low mount manifold which is a pita to work on so using reliable parts the first time is a must!

Edited June 7, 2008 by Alf

[The Mafia]

Just get Braided lines and good fittings, thats what I did, as mine is low mount too. They aren't that hard to work on, just need to be smart on hose lengths and types of fittings.

I used those Blue and Red fittings - not sure on the brand. And they are fine because the turbo has been off 4 or 5 times now, being change to a bigger one, and changing rear housings etc.

[Alf]

Wouldn't rubber type oil lines perish quicker than metal lines since it's exposed to high temps?

Can understand that "screw in" type fittings would be better than washers and a banjo bolt.

Edited June 7, 2008 by Alf

[GeeTR]

Specific manufacture, Earls, Speedflow, Summit, Aeroquip aside, im not sure a compression fitting is any better then a banjo. All the big names make -AN banjo''s as well.

[SirRacer]

i got mine incredibly cheap from www.staparts.co.nz

[Lazy-Bastard]

Nissan used hard lines and banjos for a reason - reliability

This is a 35R highmounted

[STR8E180]

Nissan used hard lines and banjos for a reason - reliability

keep in mind hard lines are alot cheaper then braided lines which is the main reason nissan weld with them

they also dont have as much flex as a braided line and they can also rust and leak

braided lines is alot more reliable then the standard hard lines

[Lazy-Bastard]

they also dont have as much flex as a braided line and they can also rust and leak

They also don't bake and crack when exposed to extreme temps. I have lines running in close proximity to my manifold, which is HPC coated as well as heat wrapped but I still expect to see some serious temperatures down there.

There is enough flex in the steel line to accomodate the sort of movement they will experience and I really don't think rust is an issue

[Shaun]

They also don't bake and crack when exposed to extreme temps. I have lines running in close proximity to my manifold, which is HPC coated as well as heat wrapped but I still expect to see some serious temperatures down there.

There is enough flex in the steel line to accomodate the sort of movement they will experience and I really don't think rust is an issue

Thats why you cover the braided lines in flame guard sleeving, to keep the heat away.

Just use Earls fittings (including their banjo bolts for oil and water on the block), and you'll have trouble free use. Just be sensible when routing the lines, ie; leave an air gap between the line and heat sources. Every drag/circut/rally racer cant be wrong about these fittings. Dont bother with hard lines; their lack of flex and/or vibration resistance would worry me.

Shaun.

[DCIEVE]

id be steering clear of the orange stuff, it eventually go's hard and crumbles - also know of guys who have had it ignite. use the silver stuff around the manifold and if your really worried use teflon lined braid and as long as its roughly 1" from the manifold it should be fine

[GeeTR]

Hey Shaun, have you changed your turbo's water exit, and run it around the front of the motor, instead of the rear coolant line that goes around the back of the head?

[R31Nismoid]

I used teflon/braided lines with my low-mount GT30 setup, never had a problem.

Just use a nice 90-degree speedflow fitting to lead the line out away from the housing/direct heat and it shouldn't have any issue.

The hard lines certainly are more reliable, teflon etc doesnt like extreme heat. Only issue with hard lines is if your pulling the gear on/off a lot that you dont accidentally bend them... thats where the problems start

[GeeTR]

Only issue with hard lines is if your pulling the gear on/off a lot that you don't accidentally bend them...

Tis why Id say banjo's are a good idea with hard pipe; the fitting itself doesn't travel during tightening... if that makes sense.

[Alf]

How often have you guys seen factory or aftermarket steel lines break?

[rb26s13]

How often have you guys seen factory or aftermarket steel lines break?

on the car or when working on the car?

[Alf]

on the car or when working on the car?

Either

[rb26s13]

Either

ive broken a couple standard oil and water lines.. but they were mainly my fault cause the bastards just didnt want to come off.. other than that i haven seen any break in use

[Roy]

Depending on the type of teflon its good for around 350-500deg C. So i use braided/teflon oil supply and return line. I am with Shaun, i use the silicon sheathing for my return line as absolute overkill and never been a problem, even when thrashing the guts out of the car at the track, even after a fire

Even after the fire the silicon sheathing only got a little scorched and coudl have been re-used, I got a new seciton as it looked bad, still worked fine and was ductile enough at the time of removal . The replacement went on in Jan 05 and its still there and happy

[Shaun]

Hey Shaun, have you changed your turbo's water exit, and run it around the front of the motor, instead of the rear coolant line that goes around the back of the head?

Yep, i blocked the rear feed off, and returned the water at the front. You can see it in the photo; heaps better and not a nightmare to fix leaks etc. I dont know what i was thinking running it around the back.

Shaun.

[Shaun]

Tis why Id say banjo's are a good idea with hard pipe; the fitting itself doesn't travel during tightening... if that makes sense.

Banjos are good for restricted spaces too.

Just make sure you replace the copper washers after re-use.

Actually, you dont have to replace them if you anneal them. Heat them up to red hot (using a torch or even BBQ flame), then cool them down by quenching or letting them self cool (it doesnt matter). This re softens the copper and theyre as good as new!

Shaun.