Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well its been in the Forced Induction Forum for a while, but no one really knows what the requirements for engineering mods are, where to get them done and how much it all costs.

Anyone knows who I can go to (in Victoria) to get my mods certified? Or is this all a myth and are mods basicall outlawed?

Last thing I want is for a cop to look under the bonnet and go, "DEFECTED"

I want to be able to stick the canary up his big fat ass.

Ross

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22288-getting-mods-engineered/
Share on other sites

How much money you got?? Thats the question. I looked into it a little while ago and basically anything you do to change the intakeengineexhaust has an overall effect on the pollutionnoise output of the car. If you can get your modifications passes by an EPA test which consists of them putting it on a dyno and monitoring the by-products of your car whilst it's running then your home free but without megga $ I cant see how you could mod the car without increasing the amount of pollution the car produces without a restrictive exhaust system which kinda defeats the whole purpose. In short, if your going to mod your car then expect to be hassled if your pulled over so just play it smart and try not to attract too much unwanted atention and yes this means no sideways action down the highways or drifties round those corners :P

well what you need is if you have anything specific like Atmo blow off valve aircleaner ect that vent engine air to atmo you need a full S.H.E.D test...this is where they put the vehicle in an enclosed chamber and cook it and suck the air out and test the air for toxins ...they have to be a certain figure to pass...also technically for safety reasons if the car has over a certain amount of percentage of HP that the car has over the standard figure it must have brake tests done....Ford can conduct the shed test... its about 2500 to 3000 grand pass or fail.....they also have a drive cycle where they put the car on a dyno with a probe up its backside and simulate various driving conditions...I have been on a tour of there proving grounds when the my vehicle went for a shed/real time drive test....its quite interesting.....other than that if you need help you have to be more specific on the modifications that you have

Mods can be engineered...... but it still doesn't mean that you won't be defected. :D

You can be EPA'd at any time, and an engineers certificate will not get you out of the poo.... you need to prove yourself innocent.

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...