Jump to content
SAU Community

  

33 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Thats they guy who I was talking about in my earlier post!

You know him?

candy33 White and a Black bonnet will look nice aswell.

If I had a R34 it will be White. Looks the best IMO at the same time Satin / Matt Black.

I rekon go the Matt Black just to be different.

Yeah Thanks for that, its now definatly down to either the white or the Satin Black.

Not too sure if the panda look would be too 'Ricey' or not.

Its a hard decision.

Yeah Thanks for that, its now definatly down to either the white or the Satin Black.

Not too sure if the panda look would be too 'Ricey' or not.

Its a hard decision.

LOL! Panda look on a Honda Civic hatch that keeps driving past my work is rice.

For you IMO it will look JDM Spec and if its a Carbon fibre bonnet you'll be fine + you got a RB26 under there so you got the balls to back it up LOL! :)

Only thing with white is that its hard to keep it clean.

HAHA!! :)

GO THE MATT BLACK :)

Its different and gives the tuff look.

The satin black I've seen have had immaculate panels. I guess because you're looking at the panels themselves, rather than seeing a reflection as is the case with high-gloss black, the panels must be perfect. BUT, either I have it completely wrong, or the people who have suggested it haven't noticed that the panels are fibreglass.

White w black bonnet all the way...

Only thing with white is that its hard to keep it clean.

HAHA!! :D

GO THE MATT BLACK :)

Its different and gives the tuff look.

Actually, blacks a more difficult colour to keep clean. Seems to show alot of water marks, streaks, etc...

Im told by an ex-spray painter that i work with that satin/matt colours are extremely hard to keep clean and maintain, that they show up any and all dirt marks, finger prints etc...

by no means do i think its ugly, quite the opposite in fact, the sunlines gtr stands out in my mind, that said, keep that in mind when you get to painting :)

im also quite over the white look, i have a white GTT and to be quite honest im sick of white lol, good luck with your choice

Thanks for that guys. I'm so confused of what color to do.

Some pictures of Satin black look so good, but then theres some that look just terrible.. it's such an inconsistent finish.

I might just have to go buy a colour and be done with the decision. :D

I know I've said it before, but GO WHITE WITH BLACK (or carbon fibre) BONNET!! It's not rice, look at the Mines GTR. :)

Satin/matt (or matte) black is hardest to keep clean from what I've read. Looks nice and different, but white always looks good in my opinion.

Let us know either way you go.

Can I suggest...

Matt satin black... Then a sprayed Red line through the side of the car either in the shape of a Heartbeat monitor thingo or just a scribble.. That would be gloss red.. would look wickd

Red Rising sun would look great too

Edited by DECIM8

Thanks for all the help guys really appreciate it!

As for the water marks and hard to keep clean thing it isn't really a problem for me as i meticulously look after my cars.. its the actual overall finish i'm worried about with the Satin black or silver. Even though a professional will be painting it, the last thing i would want to see is any ripples or imperfections in the paintwork. So at this stage i looks like it may be the white, unless someone can convince me otherwise.

Thanks guys :domokun:

I've done a few spray jobs here and there (back yard jobs) and I have to say that spraying satin or matte black is easier to get a better finish compared to a gloss black for example. You can see all the imperfections if you're not spraying gloss black properly, but with satin/matte, it's not all that hard. A little rough here and there, but it's not too hard to get rid off with a light sand. It could just be that the satin/matte isn't shiny so you can't really see the bad spots, I'm not sure.

Just my 2 cents. :)

I've done a few spray jobs here and there (back yard jobs) and I have to say that spraying satin or matte black is easier to get a better finish compared to a gloss black for example. You can see all the imperfections if you're not spraying gloss black properly, but with satin/matte, it's not all that hard. A little rough here and there, but it's not too hard to get rid off with a light sand. It could just be that the satin/matte isn't shiny so you can't really see the bad spots, I'm not sure.

Just my 2 cents. :)

Thanks for the info mate :)

I like the silver.. I was gonna get my bonnet painted matt black but apparently after like 6 months it starts fading and all sorts of troubles happen..

Do u have any pic's of your R32 with the full Bee*R kit? How much did the whole thing cost to import and how much was installation? Been really interested in getting that..

Thanks

Well i've already done the "show-car" style paint on my r33 before, so no purple or chameleon. Plus purple will show any little imperfections which i don't want as its gonna be street driven.

This car i want to keep rather subtle, as i'm focusing on engine work and would rather a mean looking car than opposed to a show- pony etc.

Thanks mate :)

Deff the Matt black. Won't attract cop attention and looks just plain mean. The white car/black hood just screams hoon.

Add some eyelids, tint the windows and some dark rims and that a scary looking beast.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey, it's a GT-R, it's just as significant a moment as mine😁 It's not ideal when things are uncertain; I'm the type of person that always has a set plan for things in life so being unsure of this plan puts me in a weird place mentally.
    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card style AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had no flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
×
×
  • Create New...