Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got the same thing happening on my 34 gtt and I think I know what it is. Once I took the car for a dyno and the wastegate actuator got stuck open (so wasnt making any boost) so the mechanic had to take the actuator metal cover off to fix it.

Ever since I've noticed a crappy rattle sound when the car is cold and recently tried to figure out where its coming from and I am 99% sure it's just the wategate actuator metal cover because the mechanic only put 2 screws back in and not all 4 GRRR.. so when the engine is cold it resonates and the cover makes the rattle sound but once it warms up (and components expend a fraction of a milimeter) the cover no longer rattles as it then sits tight. Im gonna have to try and source the right screws for the actuator cover to test this theory.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222935-engine-sound/#findComment-3929446
Share on other sites

it may not be exactly the same thing but it could be something silly like that .. a screw loose somewhere and when the car is cold a small space appears so that it rattles due to the vibrations of the engine. I'd try and pinpoint the source of the noiuse with someone's help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222935-engine-sound/#findComment-3930270
Share on other sites

Sounds like piston slap. When your engine is cold the pistons are smaller thus have more clearance in the bore. When u get some heat into the engine they expand @ the skirt of the piston and take up some of the clearance, thus less rattle. Could also be gudgeon pin to piston clearance or conrod bearing clearance. Does it sound uniform thru the engine or do u think its could be localised to 1 cylinder? If u think it is 1 cylinder only, remove the spark plug lead while the engine is running and see if the knock disappears or changes pitch. If it does then it is more likely to be a conrod bearing or gudgeon pin problem rather than piston slap. The vt commodore with the Gen3 was bad for piston slap when cold,a lot of the problem with then was attributed to the short piston skirt.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222935-engine-sound/#findComment-3933765
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...