Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey peoples,

just like I've done with the C34 buyers guide, I'd like to do a similar thing for prospective buyers (and current owners) of the M35 series, noting any information on what to look out for, what differences there are between the spec levels, any updates made over the course of the M35 run over the years, etc.

I have here with me a copy of the HyperRev catalogues for both the C34 and M35 ranges of the Stagea (volumes 38 and 67), but not being able to read Japanese myself tends to bring up a few issues, as you'd understand. Pictures and numbers can only provide so much information, so it's up to you guys and girls to help wherever possible.

A fair chunk of information is already starting to appear via various threads here in the Stagea section, but I'd really like to gather that information together for the benefit of all.

Please post here if you can help, it would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Nick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223130-m35-owners-please-help/
Share on other sites

I have just auctioned for one in Japan, i will share what I have found:

According to the archived Nissan website for the 2001~2003 M35 Stagea

Three models available, RS, RX and the ARX-Four

Leaving the ARX-Four out for the moment

The RS is the "Sports" package, has the black/Aluminum trim as standard (Can be "upgraded" to the RX trim" and the Din sized 3 gauge cluster (Head unit fits in one din slot)

The RX is the "deluXe" package, (My way of remebering them, not saying that's what X or S actually stand for) has the beige/Wood trim as standard and the stereo is intergrated completely integrated into the dash and generally has better equipment than the RS (Not always)

The hardware is generally the same, with the exception of a top of the line RS model the V HICAS which has both the SUPER HICAS and the better rear diff

The ARX-four has all the running gear of the V HICAS, has a higher ride height, "SUV-like BodyOrnaments" (Which my fiance' abosultely hates.) It's got it's own trim (I believe it's Tan Leather interior + Wood trim) and very much the model that has everything... It's fuel comsumption is very high though. (As quoted by Nissan themselves)

I have a 2003 RS coming my way hopefully veru shortly. I wish I could have gotten the ARX-Four... but "she who must be obeyed" did not like the black wheel arches... Maybe the next one... :P

Hope this helps.

I never looked into the NA version Stagea, there is a 3 or 3.5 litre, all dancing all singing beast available, also turbo versions have been replaced with NA, larger displacement engines post 2004 (e.g. the ARX-Four). I was told by many compliance shops they don't do (or bother with) the NA verson, of course there maybe many shops who does. Sorry, it was just outside the scope of my research.

I am not aware of a M35 Turbo Autech... although that would be darn cool... I think a 6 speed manual, NA version Autech is there.

I never looked into the NA version Stagea, there is a 3 or 3.5 litre, all dancing all singing beast available, also turbo versions have been replaced with NA, larger displacement engines post 2004 (e.g. the ARX-Four). I was told by many compliance shops they don't do (or bother with) the NA verson, of course there maybe many shops who does. Sorry, it was just outside the scope of my research.

I am not aware of a M35 Turbo Autech... although that would be darn cool... I think a 6 speed manual, NA version Autech is there.

As far as I know Autech do the AXIS & 350S in the M35,

The AXIS has the Black graphite trim inside the dash and decals plus all the normal goodies the ARX has, except the ride height is lower and the suspension is firmer, plus the body kit is colour matched (good idea). It has the same VQ25DET as the others.

The 350S was the same as the AXIS, except is had the VQ35DE engine and the very cool 6 speed manual, which I would love in my AXIS...if only some one can confirm it will fit.

The 350S was the same as the AXIS, except is had the VQ35DE engine and the very cool 6 speed manual, which I would love in my AXIS...if only some one can confirm it will fit.

They are very rare to start and rear wheel drive only (don't quote me) so are a different emissions test to the 4WD VQ35DE and more then likely you will not see any in the country which I am not happy about myself.

An important point is SHOGUN and TRUST are the 2 RAWS who have been doing them for a while so if and when VQ35DE is available they will more then likely be the first to comply them.

Speak direct to the workshop don't take anyones word on emissions and compliance.

They are very rare to start and rear wheel drive only (don't quote me) so are a different emissions test to the 4WD VQ35DE and more then likely you will not see any in the country which I am not happy about myself.

An important point is SHOGUN and TRUST are the 2 RAWS who have been doing them for a while so if and when VQ35DE is available they will more then likely be the first to comply them.

Speak direct to the workshop don't take anyones word on emissions and compliance.

I'm only after the 6 speed manual gearbox.......how much nicer would that be in my Stag....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're not wrong, but more than a few times I've heard of people running into issues where their injector characterization isn't quite right and that approach works for that specific configuration but once they switch over to a new set they discover a whole bunch of stuff wasn't set up correctly. It's slightly more annoying to reverse engineer the OEM MAF transfer function but you already have the sensor wired up to the factory harness so keeping it around for a few weeks more while you figure out the tune is easy enough. I've seen GM also use a combination of both MAF + MAP in their ECUs before, MAF is for steady state and a calculation of the cylinder VE to correct the base VE table, then in transients it uses that calculated VE + raw MAP to determine cylinder filling somehow.
    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
×
×
  • Create New...