I Broke A Exhaust Cam, Give Me Some Knowledge

[Rush Hour]

hey all,

look what i have done, how could this happen, how do i go by fixing it and how do i get that rod out of there lol.

Edited June 10, 2008 by Rush Hour

[dangerman4]

lol thats your exhaust cam buddy.

are they the stock cams or have they been removed or installed recently?

usually they break when installed incorrectly.

but in this case it seems the cam bearing cap has either had a bolt break off or fall out (hard to tell in pic)

then you can see the other side closest to the ex manifold has been flogging itself to death, because its trying to hold the cap on with only one bolt. hmmm to fix it is probally gonna require a couple of helicoils, and some new cams.

Edited June 10, 2008 by dangerman4

[Rush Hour]

lol thats your exhaust cam buddy.

are they the stock ones or have they been removed or installed recently?

usually they break when installed incorrectly.

but could just be bad luck..

oh oops lol sorry im not that good with all this,

they are standard, i did have a problem with one of the back baffel plates coming loose, this car has been some what of bad luck, but i've stuck with it. how do i get the cam out is it something i can do or does a pro need to do it, due to any timing measures or anything

[dangerman4]

oh oops lol sorry im not that good with all this,

they are standard, i did have a problem with one of the back baffel plates coming loose, this car has been some what of bad luck, but i've stuck with it. how do i get the cam out is it something i can do or does a pro need to do it, due to any timing measures or anything

1st post edited

if your unsure on how to remove it i would take it to a head specialist and get them to do it , as you mention you have had isssues with this allready so you may have buggered it up yourself by doing the cap up to tight or not tight enough etc.

buy some new cams and then get a pro to fix it or at least someone compitent enough to fix those 2 stud holes.

[James_03]

When taking the retainers off you slowly release each one gradually so it supports the cam where the lobes may still be against the lifters. Ppl cut sick and take them completely off one by one which = above.

You fix it by buying a new cam now, if you have not removed the cam previously then I would say it may be running a mismatched retainer possibly from another head. This can also cause this to occur.

Edited June 10, 2008 by James_03

[Rush Hour]

ok so buy a new cam, would there be a site where i can purchase this? and u all reakon i cant do this myself, i guess i wont this problem to go away

as i said before i did have a problem with the baffel plate, it actually broke one of the bolts that hold it into place, i had to drill it out and try and rethread it, cant say i did the best job so im assuming i caused the problem lol. u knowing this now will it be better to get a new/second hand head to save any hassel??

[James_03]

My guess is that you may have accidently over tightned the bolts holding down the retainers when you fixed it previously, or possibly mismatched the retainers. Each retainer is numbered in order and also must go the correct way up, the nissan service manual will then state the correct torque settings for each bolt, and the order in which they must be done up.

I would say its unlikely the valves have sustained any damage yet. Your best bet would be to pick up a set of second hand gtr cams, the best place to source them is most likley here off the for sale forums as people upgrade cams frequently. Once you have done that take the head in to a specialist to have them check all the tolerances out and pressure test whilst your there, if you do go this way get the stem seals replaced whilst your at it, and get a price on a valve regrind.

That's a pretty big job but as it involves removing the head obviously, so you could get away with simply fitting another second hand exhaust cam and check all the retainers and torque settings are correct. Make sure you use cam assembly lube, then turn the motor over by hand to begin with and make sure it does not lock up at any stage. Then again before starting remove the CAS connector, and perform a compression test on the motor by using the starter motor.

Compare this comp test with the factory settings to know if you have possible valve damage, then you have no choice but to remove the head. Remember with both cam's torqued down you should be able to move both intake and exhaust cam wheels by hand, not too much but as you will make contact with the piston crowns if the head is still torqued down, if you cant move the cams slowly in either direction is not right.

Edited June 10, 2008 by James_03

[slaughter]

i thought it was a conrod? LOL its funny that you laugh at what has happened dude it cracks me up!

[STATUS]

remmember to change oil before starting it up again cast is evil for internals.

[Rush Hour]

i thought it was a conrod? LOL its funny that you laugh at what has happened dude it cracks me up!

what else can i do but laugh, its done and now i have to deal with it. if i took to a pro to start off with i wouldnt be in this mess, but thanks for ya input slaughter. LOL

[Rush Hour]

thankyou so much james, you seem like you know your stuff, its people like you that make this site what it is, (very helpfull). I'll be coming to you if i have any more qauries. i'll be intouch. regards - nathan.

thankyou to everyone else too. it all helps.