Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Give me some Ideas of a Quality Battery to put in my 32 GTR that can replace the piece of crap i got in there!!! (Yellow and blue brand one) Century i think it is!!

Like 5th battery in over a Year! Running no sound system! Had the Alternator checked by 5 Mehcanics in over a year and the thing drains like water in a desert!!

Just want on that fits dirrectly in the engine bay! Not in the boot or any other place like that!!

caterpillar batteries are very very good, they cum in different sizes and cca (cold cranking amps) ratings. how often do u start the car? maybe try a deep cycle battery if u dont start the car often.

I got a battery from the wrxhoon group buy, has been fine for the past 5months, even though the car is not driven that often.

It's a chinese brand that is said to possibly be the same manufacturer as optima....

EDIT: the car usually gets started once every week or two and the battery has been fine.

if u afta a good battery get like was sed above a dry cell there great no maintenance and get one with alot of cca. like i got a 660 cca in those cold mornings my car starts first pop and it holds its charge really well

  • 1 month later...

Time to resurrect.

So the battery in my R32 GT-R is dying. I'm trying to buy a direct fit replacement, but none of the local battery companies list an R32 GT-R in the product guides. Does anyone know the specifications required for the R32 GT-R, or can recommend a couple of drop in replacements?

Cheers,

Lucien.

I also have a optima yellow top :D Its to suit a honda civic, 6xxcca

Bestwayis to measure your existing and then check the Optima catalog

and find correct size, then the one with the correct terminal positions :bunny:

:)

Actually any battery will fit as long as the amps match or close to it. We only have Japanese brand batteries here like yokohama and panasonic which are very good. We also have sealed batteries and i'm thinking of getting one when my battery dies. I dun wanna refill the battery every 6months cause it's not easy to access the battery. Goddam 30min job. lol

post-48477-1216045781_thumb.jpg

post-48477-1216045795_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was roughly 3.5 hours.    car went in around 11:00 and I was done around 2:30 He did the initial runs, install the BC and then Nistune install and tune.  The best part was sitting in the lobby and hearing the skyline on full throttle at the dyno 😂😂
    • Glad it all went smooth. How long did the tuning process take?
    • Yeah that was kind of the same feedback my tuner gave me.  the boost tee is until I can sort out my plan for the electronic boost controller and what I’d get, where I’d mount the dash etc.  I’m happy with this until I can figure it out. Not a big fan of the A-pillar gauges. I’d like to get a clean install of the boost gauge - something digital like GFB.  Something like that might fit neatly where the ashtray is and look clean. I feel like replacing the OEM triple gauge is a bit extreme for a weekender like my skyline. And it’s not making crazy power to need all the additional sensors/gauges. 
    • I'm about to swap my box to Tremec T56 Magnum F & initially thinking of re-using my DCS twin plate (can get it re centred for the bigger spline) but it's been called out the box will be noisy (rattle) as the clutch is unsprung.  So I'm doing as much research as possible. I'm not so worried about holding the power as I'll go the track version which on paper will hold the maybe 1000hp I make. It's the longevity I worry about. DCS told me they don't use a sprung centre as it's just something that can break. The uni clutch has a very complicated sprung centre. Any one had or heard about any issues with it failing? Thanks in advance.
    • Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....
×
×
  • Create New...