Jump to content
SAU Community

R30, l20et - Rb20det Turbo upgrade?

stagefumer11

By stagefumer11,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

stagefumer11 Rising Star

stagefumer11

Posted
Posted

hey guys, im new to your forum , so please be nice.

i did a search on this topic and nothing really came up on what i needed to know.,

ATm i have a Rb20det turbo waiting to bolt on to my l20et, since my Current turbo is a little bit on the "worn" side, 1/2 boost.

i also have the Rb dump pipe.

What i need to know is what is involved in fitting this turbo, where to get the water feed for it from ?. i was thinking about killing off the water feed going to the Throttle body and rerouting it to the turbo, if that will work.

If im missing any thing please tell me, as this is a important upgrade i really need to do :D

cheers,

Nick

www.skylinesdownunder.co.nz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22327-r30-l20et-rb20det-turbo-upgrade/
Share on other sites
PHaT MR30 Grand Master

PHaT MR30

Posted
Posted

Hey dude nice to see you in another skyline forum.

thats sorta the reason i didn't bother going ahead with turboing my l28. not many ppl know much about doing it.

there is alot of frigging around to do and the gains are only marginal

that is why i am going the whole hog and converting to an rb20det

i would however say you are spot on with the water from the throttle body, just bypass it through the turbo and back where it was supposed to go

rsx84 Veteran

rsx84

Posted
Posted

do any of you guys know how to tell the difference between the l28et and the l20et as i have an engine sitting there, but are not shaw what engine it is.(has a black rocket cover)? also if your looking for a turbo that may be ezyer to fit than i've got one whick will just bolt on.

PHaT MR30 Grand Master

PHaT MR30

Posted
Posted

easiest way to tell is on the head (sparkplug side) inbetween cylinder 2-3? there will be a number like: N42, P90, N47 etc

and to tell if its an L20 or L28 jus have a look on the block below cylinder 6 spark plug with be the engine code. they start with the block IE L28 009876 etc

black rocker covers usually means turbo, but can't be 100% sure

let us know what you have there

i am going to possibly be selling my L28E, Gearbox, Clutch, ECU and Loom complete soon

Rowdyr32 Mentor

Rowdyr32

Posted
Posted

Does the rb20 turbo flange bolt straight up because a guy a work just bought a Prince skyline with a L20et conversion done on it but the turbo is shaged. It came with an extra injector and water injection controlled by an add on Microtech (sumthing) computer so the bigger turbo shouldn't be a problem.

The l28 turbo head is the P90. It has round ports.

stagefumer11 Rising Star

stagefumer11

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ahh great replys :D, yes the turbo bolts right up, but you need athe Rb dumppipe and a water feed, i know this will be a major upgrade. since after a long run mine will only boost 1/2

also is there lowering kits for HR30's ?. :)

be carfull of the calipers, they wear easy :D, found out the hard way. been 2 days and i still havent got the car back lol damnit

rsx84 Veteran

rsx84

Posted
Posted

i went with the king springs and konis adjustable shocks ordered them it only took 4 days to get there they also through in some whiteline sway bars front and rear all up 1800 fitted in a day.i'd recoment it to anyone.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...
dwayne293 Enthusiast

dwayne293

Posted
Posted

hey guys

i have a prob with my L20ET........ it hits about 4500 rpm then cuts out, drops back to 4400 and repeats.... is it the plugs??? fuel pump?? anything else? sorry to be so vague but i need it fixed....... Also if anybody does the rb20 turbo swap, please post on here or pm me i am interested in it myself.

Thanks in advance

Dwayne

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Check the rev limiter in the Wolf.

I have a L20ET sitting in the garage atm. I was going to fit it to the R30 hatch, but the A/C interferes with the proposed IC. It has a RB20DET BB cored turbo hanging off the side. I re-routed the water to the cold start valve (funny thing sitting right behind throttle body) to feed water to the turbo core.

I'll also be running it from a Wolf (3D), but in a R30 sedan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Duncan · Posted

      yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...