Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Engine bay looks immaculate, love the engine cover, partition, brace... awesome! :D u post on SDU quite a bit yeah?? i think u see u on there quite a bit... a whitish avatar? GTR logo, white background?? or am i thinking of someone else?

oh yeah, and did u have trouble with ur car or something, like it kinda died but came back to life?? :)

anyways, beautiful engine bay/car....

cheers.

Yeah that's me dude, just look up top 10 posters and you'll find me!

Actually I was the number one poster on this board for a while, then things got busy and I didn't post for a year or so...

Anyway the car has been off the road for a year or so basically. Fuel pump died causing it to run lean and detonate, then they rebuilt it and didn't do a good job so near the end of that drag run that's posted above a big end knock occured.

Got them to rebuild it a 2nd time and was still having problems!

3 front cylinders are lean, rear 3 are rich but very noisey, cambelt too tight, piping etc very dirty, camshaft scratched as they didn't put everything back together properly and just found out yesterday that my new turbo's have gone because of all the problems!

It pays to pay proffesionals, I went against my better judgement and let a friend point out a garage that seemed really good. Guess they weren't!

Anyway it is now with Nissan and they said a new engine would be the best way to go...

Will keep you updated :D

Basically the place that done my 2 rebuilds didn't get it right either time!

3 front cylinders are leaning out, rear 3 are running rich but making noises. Cambelt was done up too tight, the caps under the camshafts were put back in the wrong order, the clips that hold the camshaft down were put around the wrong way, they left gunge in the piping which went through the turbo's causing them to give up...

So it's start again time!

Nah it won't be ready for Dyno day bro, to be honest it's not looking like it will be ready for Autosalon either!

If it were 100% I'd be looking at the 280kw mark at the wheels, hopefully more than that...

Sorry I haven't been in touch Troy, trust me when I say they don't pay enough. Im just lucky I still live at home and don't have to pay much rent, sacrifice for wanting to own the car I have lol :)

Hows your baby going anyway dude???

Im hopeing the people that stuffed up will pay out for it, will be over 10k worth so I don't think it's going to simple. Im getting evidence together incase it has to go to court!

Originally posted by Anguss R33

Hey bootiful, long time no... email! :)  

What happened to my daily emails huh? Seems like you just couldn't be bothered anymore :)  :shake:  hehehe.

Hope things are all good, hows ya beast anyway???

will be in touch soon Anguss...got lots to tell ya :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...