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R32 Gtr Subframe Bushes

OzLeroy

By OzLeroy,
in Australian Capital Territory

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OzLeroy Enthusiast

OzLeroy

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Hi all

When that weird sticky fluid starts oozing out of the back end of your skyline and/or the rear end wriggles under acceleration/brakes/cornering then it may be time to take a look at your subframe bushes - mine were rooted.

I have purchased some noltec subframe bushes to replace the old ones from motor spares. I will also be getting some diff mounting bushes (UAS), whiteline subframe alignment bushes (pinapples) to firm up the rear end.

Anyway its a big job and to add the the large body of information already available on SAU (search subframe bushes, R32, etc) i though i'd add some pics as i do the work.

The first round - below.

post-37041-1213184116_thumb.jpg

HICAS ram as attached to rear subframe at back of diff. Note the bushes at the top of the pic, these are 2 of the diff mounting bushes that will likely be replaced.

Edited by OzLeroy
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OzLeroy Enthusiast

OzLeroy

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post-37041-1213185061_thumb.jpg

As you will likely have read elsewhere, you will need to remove wheels, calipers (via 2 bolts + 1 bracket on hub). The only other item off the hub that needs to be removed is this bolt which attaches the springs/dampers to the hub. It is not necessary to remove the upper control arm to hub bolt as in the pic.

It is possible to leave the HICAS system and diff (once primary drive shaft is unbolted) in situ, but i wouldn't recommend it the subframe assy is heavy enough by itself. HICAS should be ok to leave on though once the hydralics are disconnected.

OzLeroy Enthusiast

OzLeroy

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post-37041-1213185684_thumb.jpg

The upside down subframe assembly including upper links +lower arm (visible), hubs and discs. HICAS ram removed. The steering rods attach onto the stubs from the hubs which are visible in the pic. The stubs on the lower control arms are where the anti-roll bar mounts. NB - be careful not to damage these when handling the subframe!

Subframe was removed using 2 jacks (pictured earlier).

Diff was removed using 1 jack and 2 loops of rope going over the subframe, one across the front of the diff where it attaches to the primary drive shaft and one at the back through some pronounced cooling grooves which run along the underside.

You can clearly see the 4 big holes where the subframe bushes used to sit, one is still in place.

Notice the use of expert trolleys :)

OzLeroy Enthusiast

OzLeroy

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post-37041-1213186782_thumb.jpg

One of the subframe bushes. This is one of the silicon fluid filled ones at the front of the sub-frame.

Firstly we drilled out the rubber (and silicon filled) part of the bush between the inner and outer metal rings. Used a hole saw to start but you will require extra long/deep holesaw to get all the way through. So i followed up with a normal drill bit and simply lots of holes. Then use a large screw driver and a hammer to push through the rest of the rubber/silicon crap. Then hammer out the inner metal ring. Then its hacksaw time :) .

Beware the silicon filled front bushes have a double layer metal skin at the outer edge which needs to be hack sawed through - a major pain in the bum (or lower back to be more precise).

Even though 1 of these bushes was buggered they were all still exceptionally annoying to remove and seemed to have relatively intricate internal construction (for a bush at least!). This did make me wonder if i should have got a quote on the OEM nissan replacement - these ones did last ~15 years. How long have the noltec ones need tested for? She'll be right.

OzLeroy Enthusiast

OzLeroy

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post-37041-1213187524_thumb.jpg

One front silicon filled bush with centre metal ring removed. Hack saw in place and ready to cut.

We made 2 cuts through the outer metal ring (one is visible in the pic), then forced out the section made free by the 2 cuts with a long screwdriver/chisel + hammer. Then the rest of the bush can be removed using the same technique. Once one section is free, the bush can be removed fairly easily.

OzLeroy Enthusiast

OzLeroy

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post-37041-1213188072_thumb.jpg

One of the rear subframe bushes. These have a solid rubber inner section which makes them a bit easier to remove. There seem to be subtle differences in the structure of the front and rear subframe bushes.

GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

Posted
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post-37041-1213188745_thumb.jpg

Note cooling fins on the back of the diff, do i have a Vspec or is this normal? chassis number says no, but i also have bilstien suspension.... no brembos....

My diff got fins too.It's normal. Bilsteins you can buy quite easily.

Done the rear cradle on mine too. I had access to a hoist and a 50 ton hyd press, it was fun!!!

No more loose feeling back end FTW.

benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
Posted

Great writeup, I was thinking of doing this in about 2wks time by myself. The subframe sounds fairly easy to remove but the bushes sound line a PITA to remove/replace. I might be better off taking the whole subframe to my local suspension shop and getting them to replace the bushes for me.

R32_Matt Rising Star

R32_Matt

Posted
Posted

my bushes werent rooted but i put in the alloy bushes on the rear subframe to pretty much solid mount it to the chassis.

didnt notice much more road noise and the rear end feels heaps more stable.

they were easy to put in as well

OzLeroy Enthusiast

OzLeroy

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Yeah, the alloy bushes sure are tempting, oh well, too late for me now. There are trade-offs but they would be so much easier to install and i imagine they'd eliminate a significant amount of subframe movement. I think anyone considering this job should go for a ride in a car which has alloy subframe locks mounted to get an idea if the NVH is tolerable for them...

Edited by OzLeroy
R32_Matt Rising Star

R32_Matt

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it honestly made hardly any difference for me.

If the interior was stripped out i'm sure a whole lot more noise would come through but with the sound deadening and

all the interior in i could hardly tell the difference

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