Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thats pretty impressive. Ive got an rb25 in my r32 so im no stranger to the 33 powerplant. Im hearing a lot about leaking BOV's I have a turbosmart v-port and I reckon its leaking. Do you no how to check for sure. Also having probs getting the spark plugs right. They are gapped 0.8mm NGK platinum. I reckon these are rated to hot for my motor cos it misses, especially as you wind up the boost. If i get this stuff right i should be able to do twelves no probs.

The heat range for the stock turbo is 6's or 7's. Gap 6's to 0.7mm or the 7's to 0.9mm.

It's easy to check if its leaking, because you will be able to hear an air leak at idle from there. Under boost the 'leak' is if the boost doesn't hold from early on in the peice. I reckon it's probably not leaking tho'.

If the motor is in good tune I'm sure you will do a 12 sometime. What has the car done so far?

I havnt taken it to the plex yet. I want to sort these issues out first and also some treads to hold to back end. I have the 4.3:1 diff ratios because it is an r32, and the extra torque low down from the rb25 means my first gear goes up in smoke with no chance. I cannot get first gear down on street tyres. Second isnt much better.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
    • your right the maps for Australia came out in 2017 but are 2010 maps. i got the updated maps SD card put it in and it was the same. Same maps in my Brothers Nissan Patrol. 2020 i think his car is
    • Yeahhhh, the costs have killed me. Spent more than the cost of an engine rebuild and it most mostly servicing and a tune lol.
×
×
  • Create New...