Jump to content
SAU Community

Which Is A Decent Binding? Burton...ride...?


Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I've just obtained a new pair of DC Ghost so i thought i might as well change my binding.

I've been looking at the Burton Cartel at the moment, they've been around for a while now. I read a few feeds back about them and most of them are good but i'd like to hear a few different opinions so what do you guys use? How much? Where did you get it from..........etc?

By the way, anything for medium boarding level is ok, nothing too extream thanks.

I've just bought Flow NX-AT bindings. I really like them but a lot of people are scared of using them as they work differently to every other binding on the market... I got them off ebay australia cheap towards the end of last year.

That said you cant really go wrong with Cartels, P1s etc. I wouldn't go anything cheaper in their range though, a friend of mine snapped a Burton Mission binding in half last year.

The problem with Burton gear is that the online stores in the USA won't send burton gear to Australia, so you are stuck paying through the nose in Aus stores. Burton cartels are about US$120 but they sell for over $300 in australia, I dont see how that works.

I've just bought Flow NX-AT bindings. I really like them but a lot of people are scared of using them as they work differently to every other binding on the market... I got them off ebay australia cheap towards the end of last year.

That said you cant really go wrong with Cartels, P1s etc. I wouldn't go anything cheaper in their range though, a friend of mine snapped a Burton Mission binding in half last year.

The problem with Burton gear is that the online stores in the USA won't send burton gear to Australia, so you are stuck paying through the nose in Aus stores. Burton cartels are about US$120 but they sell for over $300 in australia, I dont see how that works.

Yeah, its Burton and their copy right thing. So is DC i think.

I got my DC Ghost Boots for $100 AUD from BackCountry, i had them sent to my sister's house in Los Angeles (free freight too :)) and she brought it over to me where they cost around $350 here in the shops.

See i've been running on Burton Freestyles for the past few years, and have zero complaints baout them. A great binding, that'll never ice up on you....or at least it'll handle anything that the shitty Australian winter can dish out.

I'd take a pic or find a link.... but i have teh beers in me ATM.... :)

See i've been running on Burton Freestyles for the past few years, and have zero complaints baout them. A great binding, that'll never ice up on you....or at least it'll handle anything that the shitty Australian winter can dish out.

I'd take a pic or find a link.... but i have teh beers in me ATM.... :P

Any updates :D?

I'm a true skier but do board a little and after doing a few seasons on the slopes I have heard nothing but love for Ride equiptment, also flow (but people either love them or hate them, so they seem an aquired taste). I would stay away from Burton stuff just cause its over priced and all the rental (cheapo models) from them were lacking when compared to other cheap gear. Having said that have never tried their top end gear, but I have not found many serious riders that love burton.

Hey, funny you start this thread, as im in the market for some new Bindings too.. My crap Morrow Bindings that I have at the moment are just poo, and im sure ill destroy them on the first trip up this season. my mate and I are pretty decent Borders, he has a set of Burton Bindings which are robust as all hell. and the buckles are so easy to whip on and off, so im scouring Ebay at the moment trying to find some. I'd also have to give credit to RIDE bindings, they are good too from what I hear.

Any updates :)?

Ummmm, i'm on the beer again. :ermm:

I'll get a pic up ASAP :)

For anything that Australia has to dish out, really you don't need a million dollar binding.... anything in the lower $$$ price range from a good company will be excellent for anything Australia's snow fields can be bothered to throw at you.

We don't get good snow here, and we'll be lucky to get below -10 degrees, so aim for binding that have the nothtern hemisphere 'summer' tag to em :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Meh, At 60 years old, I have been doing dumb stuff for much longer than you mate, I am the true King And unfortunately I cannot be a maroon, as I am not brownish red As for not getting ITB's, the plenum intake will apparently show typical gains across the board and increase induction noise a bit, but, have all over less dort than ITB's Cost difference for the extra ITB dorts was significant though, the total parts for the plenum set up is "around" $2kAUD plus shipping, the ITB's were $4kAUD plus shipping, I was contemplating really hard about paying the extra $2k for all of the dorts, but weirdly, some form of common sense, from listening to the platform experts prevailed  As for the NA mod hate by some, I've had a few boosted cars, with all their inherent issues, I'm now looking at simplicity and legalities for a street car, maybe I'm just getting old, and I'm quite happy to spend some of the kids inheritance, 5kw at a time 🤣 And think of all the money I'll be saving on consumables that something with boost needs, like engines, gearboxes, diffs, clutches,  tilt trays... etc. etc. etc. 🤪
    • Haha.  I wouldn't say I am either but I've definitely been around it plenty.  I'm guessing you know the dial in is basically to make a handicap to level the playing field between racers.  The car with the slower dial in goes first and in theory if they run their dial in time and the faster car also does then they cross the finish time if they also have exactly the same reaction time - if you go faster than the dial in them you lose, but if you are too slow there's a good chance the other person will get to the finish line first. I'm normally supporting other cars but they were all pretty dialled and were egging me on to race as well, here's one of the cars I tune (Starlet) which ran within like 1 hundredth of its dial in through the competition: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inEBu-d9Gn4&t=69s
    • Where ever the fuel reg gets it reference is what I use to T into for map reference been a very long time so where it goes to plenum/runners I have no idea but never had issues. 
    • What ecu? Same shop every time? Same ambient temperature? If timing is correct then pull plugs and see if lean or rich. Dyno can also read different if they have changed ramp rate or not set tacho/speed properly  
    • I've never done dial in's just straight up, whatever that's called. I'm far from a drag (racing ) expert.
×
×
  • Create New...