Stagea S2 Not Starting

[BigDirtyJase]

Hey Guys,

I was leaving a friends place tonight after work. Did my usual thing....start the car and let it warm up (it's cold tonight)....As I went to drive off and turned the corner the car suddenly died. pulled over to the side of the road and went to restart...started for about 3 seconds and dead...

When I go to turn the key the chime for "you left he key in ignition" is going off....have no engine lights (showing battery airbag etc.) and the car just turns over. Even the climate control doesn't turn on...so it's like the car is off and its not registering the key being at on. but my stereo and headlights are working

I do have an alram (Mongoose) Installed but i have disabled it (I think - hopefully i did it right but i have a feeling i didn't)..

Can anyone help...as it's really fustrating...I don't know what the problem is and i'm far from home

Thanks in advance.

Edited June 13, 2008 by BigDirtyJase

[chook]

Start with all the fuses, under dash ones and engine bay ones.

[BigDirtyJase]

Went to my car, changed all the fuses and still not starting.

Found out what the problem is - the wires for the alarm have been burnt out.

I'll going to get the car towed back to my house on monday and then call GL Clown Sound and yell and scream about my alarm (damn silly wiring)

[BigDirtyJase]

Went to my car, changed all the fuses and still not starting.

Found out what the problem is - the wires for the alarm have been burnt out.

I'll going to get the car towed back to my house on monday and then call GL Clown Sound and yell and scream about my alarm (damn silly wiring)

I'll post some photo's tomorrow night when I bring the car home (gotta wait 24 hours for RACV total care roadside assistance to kick in so I get free towing - unlimited kms) and show the burnt out wires.

It appears that about 4 or 5 wires were just tied and electrical taped (no signs of solder) and then put together (as in they are bunched up really close), I guess over time (6 months after install) they started to rub and touch and from my very basic knowledge in electronics, every time i've gone to start the car, the wires were starting to short itself out

At least the best thing is my car didn't catch fire..

My next question would be...do you think that the guys who installed my alarm should come out and bypass the immobiliser then take it to them and get it re-wired properly this time and if you were in my position - would you expect to pay for it??

Edited June 15, 2008 by BigDirtyJase

[chook]

I dont think you should be letting them anywhere near your car, take photos, get it fixed by a professional and then send them the bill or ask for refund. There's the chance that the boss was not aware of the shoddy work done by his lackys, so you might get some sort of justice. Fair trading or small claims court as your next recourse, and you can of course start a 'name and shame' campaign on them.

[mike40sydney]

I dont think you should be letting them anywhere near your car, take photos, get it fixed by a professional and then send them the bill or ask for refund. There's the chance that the boss was not aware of the shoddy work done by his lackys, so you might get some sort of justice. Fair trading or small claims court as your next recourse, and you can of course start a 'name and shame' campaign on them.

i would have to agree with simon on this one.i dont think id want them touching my car again . take the pics then id go to auto electrician or get a mobile one out to fix the problem even if its just to cut out the shoddy work and bypass the imobiliser.i would think its fried the alarm anyway and id be demanding a complete new install.mark the old one somehow so you know they have replaced it.big picture is can you afford to get this done out of your pocket and wait to get re embursed???????if not you will have to get them to fix it.also what are the issues if you bypass imobiliser and it gets pinched with no alarm. maybee a call to insurance company wouldnt go astray. regards mike

[munchstagea]

That's bad news, I would give them a chance to put things right (as mentioned, you potentially need a whole new alarm) Feel them out anyway, then decide if you are comfortable taking it back there, or if you should just chase them for money and find a more professional company to fix it.

Try not to get them on the defensive as you'll be unlikely to get a straight answer if they are trying to save face.

Good luck, I hope you get it sorted quickly and it hasn't damage anything else. Get lots of evidence photos just in case.

Luke

[Whooby]

Had the same thing happen in my Celsior, but with a black widow alarm. Was down at the coast, went to leave serv-o car didnt want to budge. Celsior's are damn heavy cars to push. Had a look around under the dash, took a look at the alarm box looked fine, i must have moved it and the dash came on(for those who havent seen a celsior dash they're black until they get power, When the power is cut to it, its hard to see how fast you're going) Anyhoo, i opened up the alarm box to find that the bloody thing had short circuited and melted the damn main plug to the alarm box. I managed to tape it into a position to be able to drive the car again. I rang black widow and told them what I had to do and even with me dodgeying up the alarm box it was still replaced for free. Appearntly the first goon didnt install it right any way.

Now to the stagea's alarm wo's, Went to drive the car one morning, completely dead, no lights nothing. Any power drain was making the siren sound?! Put a massive marine battery in the car thinking it was just a flat batt, still no good. Called the guy that installed it, tried some trouble shooting and he ended up telling me how to bypass the immibolisers to at least drive the car to them to fix. Replaced the alarm box and all is happy again.

I say just ring them and tell them what the car is and isnt doing, After they run through their trouble shooting things then ask what they're going to do because you're not happy.

Theres my 65c worth.

Good luck.

Hugh.

Edited June 16, 2008 by Whooby

[BigDirtyJase]

*Update*

Well I'm getting the guys from GL Pro Sound (who installed my alarm in the first place) to come have a look and disable the immobilizer so I can drive it.

Here is some photo of the burnt out wiring....and tell me what you think

[260tech]

*Update*

Well I'm getting the guys from GL Pro Sound (who installed my alarm in the first place) to come have a look and disable the immobilizer so I can drive it.

Here is some photo of the burnt out wiring....and tell me what you think

Hi there, lucky the whole wagon is not fried. Hope all goes well with installers, can't see them getting outta that effort with no blame.

Cheers GW

[BigDirtyJase]

*Update 2*

Had the guy from GL Pro Sound come out and have a look at my alarm...He said that the Turbo Timer caused the wires to burn out. Now I remember having the same conversation with him when I got the alarm installed. The car is now mobile again but there is about a 2 week wait to get me car in to fix. He also said that what they will do is that they will install a bigger diode so it doesn't blow out again but he can't guarantee it would happen again.

Now has anyone else had this same issue with their Mongoose alarm and turbo timer installed?

[ian]

I'd say he is talking crap, as a turbo timer shouldn't cause such a massive current flow!

Ian

[48ngr]

he is full of it..

take it somehwere else get a 2nd opinion

[Chris Rogers]

*Update 2*

Had the guy from GL Pro Sound come out and have a look at my alarm...He said that the Turbo Timer caused the wires to burn out. Now I remember having the same conversation with him when I got the alarm installed. The car is now mobile again but there is about a 2 week wait to get me car in to fix. He also said that what they will do is that they will install a bigger diode so it doesn't blow out again but he can't guarantee it would happen again.

Now has anyone else had this same issue with their Mongoose alarm and turbo timer installed?

you have my reply already via PM. shoot the installer that did that! FFS that is an abortion! in all honesty that would have burnt the car down had it stayed intact and got just a little bit hotter.. hell I would have at least used a relay in there.

take it where I said and leave it at that.

[BigDirtyJase]

you have my reply already via PM. shoot the installer that did that! FFS that is an abortion! in all honesty that would have burnt the car down had it stayed intact and got just a little bit hotter.. hell I would have at least used a relay in there.

take it where I said and leave it at that.

Thanks Chris, I did read your PM and I'll definitely take it to Stylin' as suggested. The Turbo timer function is on...so there is no problems there. It always sounded far fetch about the Turbo timer and it being the cause of wiring being burnt out.

But then again this is coming from a "professional" installer

[hectic180]

I have been installing alarms for 8 years now. That should not have happened. I am assuming you have the M80 Alarm? Code #15 from memory is the turbo run on code. I have never had this problem and any experienced install can wire this up problem free.

Good luck !

[Chris Rogers]

code 13. there is a 14 as well but it's a special function not listed on the sheet.

I agree - that job should not have been done that way..(nor should the diodes have been used!)

[260tech]

*Update 2*

Had the guy from GL Pro Sound come out and have a look at my alarm...He said that the Turbo Timer caused the wires to burn out. Now I remember having the same conversation with him when I got the alarm installed. The car is now mobile again but there is about a 2 week wait to get me car in to fix. He also said that what they will do is that they will install a bigger diode so it doesn't blow out again but he can't guarantee it would happen again.

Now has anyone else had this same issue with their Mongoose alarm and turbo timer installed?

Nope. I got a Mongoose installed M80G or something like that. Already had Apexi pencil timer fitted prior to alarm install, the install instructions for the mongoose alarm clearly state that turbo timers can be accomodated no worries so what is he on about. And for the record I had the same conversation with the installer, not about fire & smoke but about my turbo timer & whether it would still work after the alarm was installed. I was re-assured at the time that all would be well.

And that is the case now but I may crawl under my dash with a torch to check for emerging charcoal. Just in case.

Ref bigger diode? What is that about? Did your installer wrap up something with the potential to run quite hot in amonst a lot of poorly insulated alarm interface connections did he? And guessed the required wattage for the diode whilst dis-regarding any heat dissipation issues as well? I would be spewin.

Good luck with it all.

GW

[Chris Rogers]

the installer in question has NFI what he's doing with that alarm. the diode idea is to isolate the alarm from the timer. not a wise move AT ALL. look at the images up top. there are 3 diodes in parallel there to sink 30A of current. that setup gets VERY hot and will burn.

[260tech]

the installer in question has NFI what he's doing with that alarm. the diode idea is to isolate the alarm from the timer. not a wise move AT ALL. look at the images up top. there are 3 diodes in parallel there to sink 30A of current. that setup gets VERY hot and will burn.

Yup. I agree totally, those would be blocking diodes I guess, (thought they was dodgy crimp connectors when I looked at pics, my bad) & therefore reversed biased/non conducting. might have worked if installed correctly. Still I agree with you 100%. Risky & what is wrong with a relay ffs? If competent install even requires one in the first place?

Cheers GW