Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just recently my car isnt starting without the need of a jumpstart. (r33gtst) i went to bob jane and checked it out. battery is perfect, alternator is perfect.

came up as an error though as power drain or something like that.

this has got me puzzled.

what could it be?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223779-car-keeps-needing-jumpstart/
Share on other sites

Have you checked the battery terminals?

Loose earth cable?

Happened to me couple of days ago, resulting in new terminals.

These two things that springs to mind with situation like this.

Hope it helps

Cheers

Grant

i had this problem in my old vk... (P.O.S. btw)

turned out it was dirty battery terminals... the battery was leeking some shit out (whitish in colour) that was coating them and preventing it connecting...

wash in hot water see if fixes :thumbsup:

also check all your belts for slipping

Yep, what you want to do is like GTR-ben said, grab a multi meter and use the amps setting and do some testing.

Another good place to test is your fuse box, when the car is off, pull a fuse on a circuit and use the multi meter probes to bridge the gap and if the car is off you should get next to nothing. (Make sure the probes are in the AMPS terminals of the meter, because they are usually different to the volts terminals)

Common things that do cause current draw when the car is off are internal lights, alarms and shorts to earth.

So that should at least allow you to find which circuit is draining ur battery overnight.

Hope that helps dude.

How old is the battery? Just because it checks out as ok doesn't mean it's accepting and holding charge. Check the battery voltage before you even crank the engine. Then check it while you crank the engine.

Is the alternator working properly, and the regulator. If the regulator (built into the alternator) is cactus, then it might be overcharging the battery. And batteries don't like being overcharged.

i went to bob jane and checked it out. battery is perfect, alternator is perfect.
How old is the battery? Just because it checks out as ok doesn't mean it's accepting and holding charge. Check the battery voltage before you even crank the engine. Then check it while you crank the engine.

Is the alternator working properly, and the regulator. If the regulator (built into the alternator) is cactus, then it might be overcharging the battery. And batteries don't like being overcharged.

Hmmm, that is odd, batteries dont normaly last 12 yrs, i have an odyssey that is only a few yrs old and had to replace that on the weekend, you should here it spin up now with a 1000cca dry cell.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...