Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I get a loud crunch for about 1-2 sec everytime i start the engine and also loud tapping sound (sounds like pistons) when i first start my car in the cold morning. Now if i was to warm the car up, take it for a drive then turn the engine off to start it back up again to look for the sound, the sounds gone away due to it being warmed up. Hence, why is the reason i can't take it to any mechanic to show the issue. :domokun:

Ive only noticed this loud crunch for 1-2 on cold start after ive changed my oil to 'Elf Synthetic Oil 10W50'. This is pretty much all the relevant information i can provide from my knowledge, and also that the sound is coming from under the hood on the passengers side, kinda sounds like its coming from the head area on the passengers side where the turbo is and all.

Could it be that im using a real thick oil, hence is why its making weird noises on cold start till its warmed up?

Note: The crunch sound is only for about 1-2 sec on cold start and not constant whilst idling in cold or driving.

Much appreciated for any helpful response.

Edited by R33Turbo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223890-loud-crunch-on-cold-start/
Share on other sites

need a better decription of a "crunch" dude...

example

is it similar to some one standing on a aluminium coke can or like some one scrunching up a chippie packet,or someone crunching first gear??????? could be the starter motor drive not retracting quickly enough on start up cause the lithium grease on the shaft is cold and thick?? who knows.

Edited by nizmonut

actually it could more sound like short 'gear crunches' as well.

Basically, if the sound dies down after warm-up, it wouldn't be engine head related or anything severe right? So it wouldn't do any harm driving it around?

Edited by R33Turbo

i think you will find the rattle and the crunch will dissapear if you have rices for breakfast instead of cornflakes, a snap crackle n pop from the exhaust is usually a good sign of a nice flowing exhaust, however in this case drop the gluten from the crankcase and run some thinner oil as obviously what is in there isnt protecting the mechanically moving bits on startup.

yeah well im running 25w50 mobil 1 in my gtr and starts on the first cylinder to reach TDC, no knocks rattles, purrs beautifuly so yeah i guess so.

and dont be fooled by the advertising of "synthetic" a federal court ruling allowed the oil companys to label highly refined mineral oil as synthetic.... so you dont always get what you pay for. make sure its says 100% fully synthetic as apposed to

just synthetic

Edited by nizmonut
its not your starter motor sticking? is there actually a sound that continues on while the car is warming up?

Nope, as i mentioned above the the 'crunch' sound which sounds like 'gear crunch' is only to be heard for 1-2 sec after engine start then goes away. However, if i turn the engine back off and on to hear the sound again, it will still be there (when the car has not yet warmed up properly). If its been warmed up properly, you would not hear the sound regardless of how many times you turn the engine on and off repetitively, hence is why i cannot show the mechanic as i got to drive there with my car.

yeh id take a wild guess at starter motor also...

you could always leave the car with ur mechanic over night?? drop it off real late and get there early in the morn to watch them start it, so u know they aint taking it for a thrash...?

hence is why i cannot show the mechanic as i got to drive there with my car.
Leave the car overnight with the mechanic. That's the only way you will demo it to him.

nizmonut, you really using 25W50 oil? 25 is waaayyy too heavy, and 50 ain't much better.

PS - how about just having ONE thread on the problem.

Leave the car overnight with the mechanic. That's the only way you will demo it to him.

nizmonut, you really using 25W50 oil? 25 is waaayyy too heavy, and 50 ain't much better.

PS - how about just having ONE thread on the problem.

Im planning on doing that if i have time for it, however can't do it at the moment. Does that mean 10W50 is real heavy compared to average oils as well?

what do you mean by turn my a/c off? like disconnect the whole thing? cuz my a/c will obviously be off when im starting the engine in the 'cold morning'.
If you had your A/C on when you last turned off the engine, it will still be on when you go to re-start. Make sure you turn it off before actually cranking the engine.

10 is a bit heavy for starting (which is the only time it's important), but not too bad. Nissan's spec is 7.5W30 - you'd probably be slightly better using a 5W40.

oh alright, thanks for ur help there blind_elk... so ppl are suggesting it could be the 'start motor' dying out, maybe it could be... then again it could be cuz my oil is to thick for the weather these days if thats wat ur saying blind_elk...

i think i'd try thinner oil to see if it goes away....

If it was the 'starter motor', where is it? how much to repair or replace?

Edited by R33Turbo
If you had your A/C on when you last turned off the engine, it will still be on when you go to re-start. Make sure you turn it off before actually cranking the engine.

10 is a bit heavy for starting (which is the only time it's important), but not too bad. Nissan's spec is 7.5W30 - you'd probably be slightly better using a 5W40.

isnt nissans spec 7.5W40? maybe im wrong :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A little more work this week.  Fitted astra power steering pump in the boot with a lowe fabrication bracket. Gave the pump a good clean, fitted Anderson plug and high pressure fitting. With the intercooler being flipped under rad support factory headlights weren't going to work. Ordered a set of origin battle lights, they arrived so got them test fitted. Will require some fiddling to fit nice but was an easy quick option for now. And today we pulled out the manual Rb gearbox and test fitted a ZF 8HP50. It will fit with some casting tabs cut off and small tap of the tunnel with a hammer. Pick up the adapter plate Wednesday so hopefully all bolted in Friday and measure for tailshaft which will be a 2 piece. Been doing a lot of ecu, pdm and tcu loom design so when comes to wiring it in a few weeks will all go smoothly.
    • FYP. Sadly. Even bolt cutters wouldn't take 2 sec. But in the days of 18v angle grinders, nothing is safe.
    • One piece driveshaft I would recommend a dual CV setup otherwise stick to OEM. I have heard most one piece driveshafts cause excess vibration otherwise. The transmission grind I'm quite familiar with. You can try shockproof gear oil, otherwise you need a new transmission. The shifter is extremely simple on these cars. If you want pull apart the assembly and replace the plastic bushing but I doubt that fixes anything. The tail light issue is very common, unfortunately new tail lights are long discontinued. The trunk antenna going up always is because your radio doesn't have a true power antenna control, just remote amp power signal. There is a blank switch plate that you can pop out and install a switch for this or alternatively source a head unit that has proper antenna control. Throttle body sticking you have to disambiguate by disconnecting the cable and seeing if the linkages are the problem or something else. There is a procedure to adjust them, refreshing them is also somewhat involved if that's the issue. I have dealt with many of these issues. Old cars really are fractals of problems. The more you fix the more you discover there is to fix.
    • Welp, you've got a long list of experiences right there. I'd say you're on the right path.
    • That's correct, suits my requirements a bit better. Sure there are also numpties there, however it's generally a different vibe and more my kind of vibe.
×
×
  • Create New...