Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi!

I know its probably not right for me to post in this "Australian Skyline" forum, but since I have got a lot of help from here, I would like to post anyway.

First of all, a short introduction of my self:

My name is Morten Kiil Finsås, and Im from a town called Bergen in Norway. Im 24 years old, and I drove drifting last season, but not this season, thats because Im building a new car.

First of all I want to thank BezerkR32 and 2rismo for the help on some of my question.

This is a project that Im beginning on, a Skyline R32 with Chevrolet LS3 Aluminum engine for use in drifting.

I just got the car, in relative good condition, but its just a shell, but sheep to start of with. The person that I bought this car from, tried to fit a V10 engine from a Ford Excursion in it (Idiot... :) ) and therefor ruined the car. But since Im rebuilding it anyway and it was sheep, I did not care.

Picture of the car:

post-51172-1213487912_thumb.jpg

This is a short list of things that I will do in the car:

Chevrolet LS3 6.2L V8, aprox. 500 hp, aluminum engine

Tremec T56, 6 speed transmission

XYZ Drift Spec Coil Overs

Aluminum bushing for sub frame

Complete adjustable undercarriage

Uniball bushing where available and Polystyrene bushing on rest

Pedal box

S14/S15 steering, Right Hand Drive(Not quite sure jet, but must get rid of HICAS)

D2 Racing Big Brakes Kit

Hydraulic hand brake

This is some of the major changes Im making on the car.

The engine and transmission is ordered and here is a picture of the engine:

post-51172-1213488369_thumb.jpg

As you can se, its a Corvette engine. Everything is brand new, and the engine model is 2008.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223929-skyline-r32-ls3-drift-car/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 151
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Time for some picture updates

The car has just arrived, and not much has been done with it. Im waiting for the engine and transmission, but you get an idea of all the problems the other owner made for me, when he tried to fit a V10 steel block from a Ford truck...

post-51172-1213563875_thumb.jpg

post-51172-1213563905_thumb.jpg

post-51172-1213564022_thumb.jpg

post-51172-1213564064_thumb.jpg

post-51172-1213564105_thumb.jpg

This is a picture of the Transmission that is ordered:

post-51172-1213564365_thumb.jpg

And here is a picture of my work shop:

post-51172-1213564157_thumb.jpg

Hi Morten, i sent you a link in my thread for the radiator i used, but looking at the bar-work in the front of your car it looks like you may need a custom unit. unless the pics are decieving. PWR will build you one, you just have to draw it and they will fabricate it. I have used them for over a dozen conversions and the job is always perfect, and never a over-heating issue. they also do excellent thermo fans.

Hi Morten, i sent you a link in my thread for the radiator i used, but looking at the bar-work in the front of your car it looks like you may need a custom unit. unless the pics are decieving. PWR will build you one, you just have to draw it and they will fabricate it. I have used them for over a dozen conversions and the job is always perfect, and never a over-heating issue. they also do excellent thermo fans.

Yes, the bars are in the way, but Im going to remove them. The person who mounted the V10 engine, mounted these bars, so the front would not collapse of the weight.

The bars are not legal in the Nordic Drifting Regulations ether.

Some of the body work needed to be done on the car is:

Remove the custom Firewall, and make a new one that fits the car and engine (The firewall was move 20-30cm back in the car)

Remove the custom transmission tunnel and make a new smaller one

Remove the roll cage and build a new one according to Nordic Drifting Regulations

This is just some of the thing that has to be redone on the car...

Now the money for the engine and transmission transfered. Now its just wait for the engine... :banana:

I would send a thanks to Ron at the StreetRodEngine.com for excellent help and service. :P

The engine has following specification:

LS3 6.2L base engine

L92 Heads

L76 Intake manifold

F1 Cam (595/595/228/230/112+4)

24 tooth Reluctor Wheel

99-04 computer and harness

Corvette alternator and Power Steering

Flywheel and Clutch assembly

Tremec T56 Transmission

It should produce about 480-500 rwhp :banana:

  • 1 month later...

It has been a while since I wrote here, but it has been a lot of travel latley on the work. But things have happened.

The engine arrived on friday the 4. july.

Here are some pictures:

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

The engine seems to have shifted to one side and damaged the cover, but the engine looks great. Ron is shipping over one new cover to me.

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

I hope to get started with the engine mounting when I get back from vacation in two weeks, and then things will go a little faster on the fabrication side.

Edited by Morten Kiil Finsaas

Yea, Im hoping that it will work for drifting, but Im not sure until I have tried it...

I have been working the two last days on the car and I have got something done.

As you can see on the pictures below, I have removed the Ford V10 engine and removed some of the reinforcement made in the engine bay to support that heavy engine and transmission.

I have a engine hoist that is rated at 550Kg, but it struggled with the engine removal...

post-51172-1217234039_thumb.jpg

post-51172-1217234335_thumb.jpg

post-51172-1217234482_thumb.jpg

post-51172-1217234525_thumb.jpg

post-51172-1217234570_thumb.jpg

post-51172-1217234638_thumb.jpg

^^ Now i can see how the bloke before you had moved the firewall back!

And he has done a shitty job on everything. I have used my two last days patching up scars and bruce´s on the front of the car, left behind from the removal of the "reinforcement" that he maid for the engine.

Also today, I finally got the front suspension off the car, and there was a lot of rust on the parts. Im glad most of the parts are going to be replaced with new one.

I will upload some more pictures tomorrow.

funky, check BezerkR32's thread in this section if you haven't already. Same car and motor (but a nicer colour).

I have used my two last days patching up scars and bruce´s on the front of the car

LOL! "Morning Bruce."

bruce3.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I believe mine is helical and not clutch type. During drifting one wheel was spining as if it was open diff so bought kazz 1.5 way and has sat on my shelf for the past 5 years as I want to learn shiming process and do it myself   in meantime thought I change the diff oil hence post here. So any 75-90?   i am pretty sure r34 are helical not clutch lsd as standard . That is gtt ones
    • Throw between gears are so much that is getting annoying. I have pro short shifter on my mx5 and e36 and love it . Skyline is getting unbearable    would syncro issues and short shifter is no no? Anyone mind explaining a little on why before i buy cube
    • No. Well, some people "seem to use redline shockproof in the diff". Most do not. I would only contemplate it if you have badly worn CW&P gears. And no. No-one in their right mind has ever put ATF into a diff. Any normal diff/gear oil of the right viscosity will do. Whatever takes your fancy. Castrol, Nulon, Penrite, Redline MT range. Whatever. It's just gears. 75W-90 or 80W-90 is typical. I think that GL-5 is hard to avoid these days, although I think that a GL-4 is probably preferred, given the vintage of the equipment. At least Redline offer a number of GL-4 oils. If you have a clutch type LSD instead of the VLSD, then of course you need a proper LSD oil. Anything from any of the same names above. If you have a helical LSD, then it does not require LSD oil, and the recco is the same as for the VLSD. You don't want the LSD friction modifiers in the oil for a non-clutch type LSD if you can avoid it.  
    • You may want to list it up for a little higher - This price is much lower than you may realize. Here you're pretty much selling to people who most likely already have these things on their own rigs. S chassis people eat this stuff up like you'd not believe.
    • I had my car for over 10 years and done around few thousand miles but never changed the oil. thinking of changing it.   what brand and viscocity would you put in ? people seem to use redline shockproof in the diff   on  contraty seen others using atf dexron 2 or 3 so wanted to check. is it 1 liter?
×
×
  • Create New...