Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 151
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ha ha, you will learn, i had to call three blokes from next door to help me push your car today. Thinking about buying one of those little machinas from the airport to move the R33s around the shop.

Fixed :)

Pleased excuse the harshness, but I just gotta ask WHY ?

The engine produces no more BHP than an standard internals RB25

The engine produces less torque than standard internals RB25

The chassis is nothing special, there are plenty of choices that would be much lighter, wider and lower with superior suspension lay outs.

The finished product is such a bastard it will be worthless when you sell it, you would spend less on RB25 powered one that would be worth twice as much.

In summary, to me it's a bad engine choice in a bad chassis choice and, for all the work you are going to have to do it also a bad financial choice.

Cheers

Gary

Pleased excuse the harshness, but I just gotta ask WHY ?

The engine produces no more BHP than an standard internals RB25

The engine produces less torque than standard internals RB25

The chassis is nothing special, there are plenty of choices that would be much lighter, wider and lower with superior suspension lay outs.

The finished product is such a bastard it will be worthless when you sell it, you would spend less on RB25 powered one that would be worth twice as much.

In summary, to me it's a bad engine choice in a bad chassis choice and, for all the work you are going to have to do it also a bad financial choice.

Cheers

Gary

1. Standard RB25 does not produce 600BHP standard, like my LS3, It will have 500RWHP, approx. 600BHP on the crank. No internal modification

2. Standard RB25 does not produce 600 NM of torque, LS3 has 530NM torque as standard, mine has more.

3. I got the chassis for 1000$, with the engine and transmission (V10) that I can sell for 1500$. My first choice was a 200SX S14a, but I did not have 10 000$ to spend too rip the engine out and so on.

4. Im not intended to sell the car, just drive it. We have couple of other people here in Norway that has install LS1 engine in their 200SX S13/S14/S15 and likes it. I produce twice the power, twice the torque as them, so it should work.

And one more thing, The LS3 is a complete Aluminum engine, and weighs less than an RB25 engine.

As for the price, I got my engine for less, brand new with transmission and everything I needed, for less than a RB25 with 400-450 BHP and can manage the beating on a Drift Circuit.

Pleased excuse the harshness, but I just gotta ask WHY ?

The engine produces no more BHP than an standard internals RB25

The engine produces less torque than standard internals RB25

The chassis is nothing special, there are plenty of choices that would be much lighter, wider and lower with superior suspension lay outs.

The finished product is such a bastard it will be worthless when you sell it, you would spend less on RB25 powered one that would be worth twice as much.

In summary, to me it's a bad engine choice in a bad chassis choice and, for all the work you are going to have to do it also a bad financial choice.

Cheers

Gary

The Corvette LS3 in this car produces WAY more horsepower and torque in standard form than an RB25 in standard form. You're kidding yourself to think otherwise and suggesting that a 25 could make more of both on std internals BUT with bolt-ons is ludicrous. You're no longer comparing apples and apples.

Dozens of top drifters all over the world disagree that the chassis can't be made to work well. It's certainly better suited to drifting than the car this engine was originally intended for.

Who on earth builds cars to sell? You're kidding, surely!!??!?!? Even so, an LS3 powered R32 makes a damn sight more appealing specimen to drifters than a 25 swap or a shitty RB20. Drifting isn't about lap times, don't forget that. It's about the show and the impact and having something a little unusual and different from everyone else. "An RB25 in a Skyline?! THE SHOCK!!! How rare and exciting!!!!?"

To me it's a great engine choice, (the weight factor in particular) and is the perfect option for making a drift car stand out in the crowd. The torque curve for these motors is about as flat as you could ask for - sounds perfect to me.

I dont know SK, ive built alot of rb25s and they cost more than 4k in upgrades to produce 300kw.

and the engine is lighter, reducing weight in the front of the car and overall. how you cannot see this is not a sensible choice both financially and power wise is beyond me. i take it then you are not interested in setting one of these up for circuit racing?

Pleased excuse the harshness, but I just gotta ask WHY ?

The engine produces no more BHP than an standard internals RB25

The engine produces less torque than standard internals RB25

The chassis is nothing special, there are plenty of choices that would be much lighter, wider and lower with superior suspension lay outs.

The finished product is such a bastard it will be worthless when you sell it, you would spend less on RB25 powered one that would be worth twice as much.

In summary, to me it's a bad engine choice in a bad chassis choice and, for all the work you are going to have to do it also a bad financial choice.

Cheers

Gary

Today I got some more work done on the car, I finished welding in new sheet metal and grinding and rust protect the welds.

As you can se from the picture below, there were some terrible sheet metals and rust where the reinforcement where welded onto the suspension tower (Is that the correct word?)

post-51172-1217370470_thumb.jpg

post-51172-1217370509_thumb.jpg

I also removed more "unwanted" things from the car, like the handbrake cables and handbrake, Fuel lines, brake lines and Clutch lines. When removing the clutch line, I discovered a metal thing, and was wondering what it was, I have seen it before on a S13, but not on S14. Does anyone know?

post-51172-1217370338_thumb.jpg

post-51172-1217370405_thumb.jpg

The car is now ready for first try fit of the engine and transmission. I am aiming to do that tomorrow, so I can set the needed parts in order. When the parts are ordered, its probably going to bee proximally 1 month before I do anything else on the car, because, we are beginning to do "Spring cleaning" in the garage from friday, and when that is done, we are mounting a paint booth in our work shop, but I will keep everyone updated as I go along...

I also took some more pictures of the work done from the previous owner on the firewall and transmission tunnel...

post-51172-1217370571_thumb.jpg

post-51172-1217370614_thumb.jpg

post-51172-1217370951_thumb.jpg

post-51172-1217370996_thumb.jpg

post-51172-1217371154_thumb.jpg

post-51172-1217371200_thumb.jpg

post-51172-1217371241_thumb.jpg

post-51172-1217371274_thumb.jpg

post-51172-1217371309_thumb.jpg

post-51172-1217371346_thumb.jpg

post-51172-1217371401_thumb.jpg

post-51172-1217371437_thumb.jpg

post-51172-1217371473_thumb.jpg

post-51172-1217371649_thumb.jpg

Nice work mate. looks like some fun times ahead.

Everytime I see your name I think of horten hears a who.

maybe we call call this morten kills a 32?

Good one! :blink:

Well, I am actually trying to resuscitate this R32, since it already have been "killed" by his previous owner... :ermm:

Do you guys really think I am going to make a statement that I can't back up?

Chevrolet LS3 6.2L V8, aprox. 500 hp, aluminum engine

My own RB25DET 322rwkw standard internals, which last time I checked on the engine dyno was ~530 bhp which is more than 500.

The LS3 in a current Corvette (we have one for local racing evaluation) on the same dyno makes 294 rwkw, which is less than 322 rwkw

The 600 hp is an American dream.

Shall we move on to torque;

The LS3 shows 480 nm on the dyno, which equates pretty closely to the 550 nm as per the Corvette at the engine

The RB25DET shows 514 nm on the same dyno, which is more than 480 nm.

The killer is from 4250 rpm to 6750 rpm the RB25DET has more torque at every point.

This is real world stuff here, we are not playing with some American brochure designed to sell Corvettes to cowboys.

Cheers

Gary

I think it's a cool conversion mate.

I wouldn't worry about the broken engine cover though. They're crap, and you should leave them off. They retain a heap of heat. I've pulled mine off my LS1 and the car runs much smoother after a long drive due to cooler oil temps.

Do you guys really think I am going to make a statement that I can't back up?

My own RB25DET 322rwkw standard internals, which last time I checked on the engine dyno was ~530 bhp which is more than 500.

The LS3 in a current Corvette (we have one for local racing evaluation) on the same dyno makes 294 rwkw, which is less than 322 rwkw

The 600 hp is an American dream.

Shall we move on to torque;

The LS3 shows 480 nm on the dyno, which equates pretty closely to the 550 nm as per the Corvette at the engine

The RB25DET shows 514 nm on the same dyno, which is more than 480 nm.

The killer is from 4250 rpm to 6750 rpm the RB25DET has more torque at every point.

This is real world stuff here, we are not playing with some American brochure designed to sell Corvettes to cowboys.

Cheers

Gary

Comparing an engine with standard internals and thousands in bolt-ons to a completely standard engine is unfair and you know it. It's just being facetious for the sake of it. Bolt a turbo or two onto the stock LS3 and then compare them if you want to be fair. I've seen enough std internal LS engines to know what will win and you know as well as I that 322kW won't begin to cut it.

A brand new LS3 and gearbox cost him $10,000. Show me a brand new standard internal RB25 with a brand new six-speed that makes the same hp and nm for anything like 10k.

Didn't think so.

but at what cost. i still dont think you can set a 25 up cheaper than banging one of these in. Not the average joe who has to pay someone anyway. and the engine combo is still way lighter. time will tell. i know that its not for everyone but a little credit where credit is due doesnt go a-stray.

Do you guys really think I am going to make a statement that I can't back up?

My own RB25DET 322rwkw standard internals, which last time I checked on the engine dyno was ~530 bhp which is more than 500.

The LS3 in a current Corvette (we have one for local racing evaluation) on the same dyno makes 294 rwkw, which is less than 322 rwkw

The 600 hp is an American dream.

Shall we move on to torque;

The LS3 shows 480 nm on the dyno, which equates pretty closely to the 550 nm as per the Corvette at the engine

The RB25DET shows 514 nm on the same dyno, which is more than 480 nm.

The killer is from 4250 rpm to 6750 rpm the RB25DET has more torque at every point.

This is real world stuff here, we are not playing with some American brochure designed to sell Corvettes to cowboys.

Cheers

Gary

Comparing an engine with standard internals and thousands in bolt-ons to a completely standard engine is unfair and you know it. It's just being facetious for the sake of it. Bolt a turbo or two onto the stock LS3 and then compare them if you want to be fair. I've seen enough std internal LS engines to know what will win and you know as well as I that 322kW won't begin to cut it.

A brand new LS3 and gearbox cost him $10,000. Show me a brand new standard internal RB25 with a brand new six-speed that makes the same hp and nm for anything like 10k.

Didn't think so.

I would never use a brand new engine in a race car, too many casting and machining stresses still in the block, crank and heads. Give me some stress relieved engine parts that have done 100,000 k's or so, been hot and cold so many times there are no stresses left. Makes a far superior package in the build. Ditto gearbox cases and shafts.

If we applied an hourly rate to the work required to fit something that doesn't belong and compared it with the cost of bolts ons for an RB25DET, I know who will come out in front value for money wise. Don't try the "but he does it using his own labour, so it's free" rubbish. Nobody's time is free. If he worked overtime or got a second job, did the same hours and spent the money he earnt on an RB25DET it would piss all over the LS3.

Cheers

Gary

BTW, push rods belong in suspension not engines.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...