Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

it looks good mate. you certainly don't muck around! I'll be interested to see where the car ends up weight wise. they may be some saving in the engine, and lots of sheet metal gone, but then lots of steel added back in with the gearbox frame, new firewall, new floor, roll cage etc. I honestly couldn't guess if it will be lighter than stock or heavier. please let us know. :P

  • Replies 151
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Looking at the amount of work you have done just to get the chassis to a state where you can start building your own parts (i.e. removing old things to prepare for new things) you must have gotten the chassis for a song, to make this build worth it!

Yeah, I know... But when I sell the engine and gearbox that followed the car for aprox. 2000aud, witch should be possible, I got the chassie for free... including two 18" wheels and two 17" wheels...

it looks good mate. you certainly don't muck around! I'll be interested to see where the car ends up weight wise. they may be some saving in the engine, and lots of sheet metal gone, but then lots of steel added back in with the gearbox frame, new firewall, new floor, roll cage etc. I honestly couldn't guess if it will be lighter than stock or heavier. please let us know. :)

Thanks!

The steel for framing off the gearbox tunnel is suprisingly light.. The hollow square tubing I uses is only 20x20x1(.5?)mm. But since I also fabricated the gearbox mount as a part of the frame, it needed to be a little bit beefy... I do not think the wheight will be a issue.

There is some quality fabrication in that gearbox frame, amongst other things.

Thanks for the compliment!

I am trying to do quality work, so I dont need to worry about things braking during the season...

  • 3 weeks later...

Time for some updates. Since the last time, I have been extreamly busy prepping the car for Roll-Cage building, so I havent had time to update any of my build threads...

But the following has been done:

  • Engine and Transmission has been taken out
  • The brakes that I installed, is removed, but the disk is till there, or the rims wouldn't fit.
  • The hols that was left over from the removal of old Roll cage, has been welded and grinned, so it looks nice.
  • Mounted a temporary steering wheel, and got the car back on its four wheels.
  • I primed all bear metals, so it will not rust on the trip over the Norwegian mountains in snow storm...
  • Ordered a bunch of parts from Driftworks.com :P

The parts I ordered are listed below. Some of the parts was in rest, and they will send those parts when they arrive, without extra cost. The rest is in town somewhere, they arrived to bergen at 06:00... :D

  • Whiteline Rear Anti roll bar
  • Whiteline Front Anti roll bar
  • Driftworks R32 GTSt Suspension Arm Kit
  • Poly bushes (4 for the spindels, that cant be changed to Unibals)
  • Solid Subframe bushes
  • Driftworks Total HICAS Eliminator
  • Carbon Fibre Roof Scoop
  • Kaaz 1.5 and 2 way LSD
  • Driftworks Lower Arm Front and Rear S13 S14 S15 R32 R33 R34
  • Driftworks Control System Coilovers

Here are the pictures from the work I did:

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Hello again!

Time for some updates!

Friday, a week ago, I delivered my car to my roll cage builder. Driving from Bergen to Oslo (Aproximly 550km), over mountains and so on... We used almost 12hours one way...

Below you can see how the car looked when we arrived at the builder...

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

I also got parts for the undercarriage. I let the pictures speak for them self:

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

Edited by Morten Kiil Finsaas
  • 4 weeks later...

Time for Updates!

This weekend I collected my car from my professional Cage builder, JH Linnerud, who builds WRC class cages...

And I must say, the cage looks Awesome!!

So the next stage is finish up the welds inside the car, Mount two new Sparco Pro 2000 bucket seats, weld some rust on the fenders and under the car, and finishing things up...

I also got more "Gifts" from DriftWorks.com,

Whiteline stabilizer bars, Front and Rear

Driftworks HICAS Total Removal Kit

Driftworks Adjustable Camber Control Arms (Rear)

But I'm still waiting for the following:

Driftworks Traction Control Arms

Pictures from the Parts that has arrived, will come later.

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

Not to mention the dedication, I'd say 99% of us here in Australia would sit infront of the fire with a beer in that kinda of weather.......

Or find a cage builder closer :)

Thanks!

I would rather sit in front of a fire and drink a beer, but then the car would not be finished...

And the reason for not choosing one closer, it this one is one of the best, and he was cheep... :down:

Great build - I like your engineering approach to solving some of the problems!

Please keep us all updated with more fabrication pics etc!

I would have thought that you would have done the roll cage yourself given your fabrication experience?

Great build - I like your engineering approach to solving some of the problems!

Please keep us all updated with more fabrication pics etc!

I would have thought that you would have done the roll cage yourself given your fabrication experience?

Thanks!

There where a couple of reasons, and one of them are equipment. We don´t have a proper pipe bender, and a proper one is expensive. And time is another one...

If he haven´t had trouble with the delivery of pipes, he would have had it done in one week, and it is Rally approved (Stiffer, tighter to the body and so on)... And he was sheep.

The latest update is that I am changing out the lift that I had, because the old one broke down... and I have finished up the welding and grinding on the firewall and gearbox tunnel...

Pictures will come as I get finished with the things...

  • 2 weeks later...
Any further progress?

Hi!

There has been quite a big progress, but I have been to busy in the workshop, that I havent found the time for updating any of my build threads yet...

I will update soon.

This is what I have finished so far:

  • Both Seats
  • Hydraulic hand brake
  • stearing completed
  • completed all the welds on transmission tunnel, floor and firewall...
  • all pedals mounted and reinforced
  • seat belts mounted
  • New inner fenders in the rear is made, wider for the Widebody kit I am mounting
  • Firewall in the back of car, isolating trunk from the cabin, trunk will contain fuel cell, battery and so on...
  • Ordered for 4500 USD from Summitracing, 2000 USD not ordered yet...
  • Carbon fiber roof scoop mounted

As you can see it is a large list, and currently I am fixing rust on the car, and it is a pain in the ass...

Only one month and one week until first big training day on a large track...

just finished reading your build thread for the first time. excellent dedication to what looks to be a huge task!

great fabrication, and a lot of money has gone into this. I look forward to seeing the finished result and also any videos you can take of the car finally on the track!

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Hi everyone!

I have been extremely busy on the car, trying to get it finished, and I promise some updates soon. The car is going into the paint booth on thursday.

And a lot of pictures will follow. You can see new pictures in my gallery...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...